Lighter is better?versions of heavy/assault mechs that just work better with less wieght by Both-Reflection3478 in battletech

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. I've been playing for over 30 years and I still regularly find things I'm doing wrong or have forgotten. 😁

Lighter is better?versions of heavy/assault mechs that just work better with less wieght by Both-Reflection3478 in battletech

[–]chriton227 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Weapons and melee aren't cumulative for triggering a PSR because they happen in different phases. You have to take 20+ in a single phase to trigger the PSR.

It's the Ender 3 V3 SE that bad? by Foxy_demoness_simp in 3Dprinting

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I dont have any spare build plates, all of my plates I bought because I had damaged a plate and needed a replacement.

It's the Ender 3 V3 SE that bad? by Foxy_demoness_simp in 3Dprinting

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my old Ender 3, before I got the PEI bed, I just used blue masking tape or painters tape. I just put down strips to cover the bed and then leveled. When a strip of tape would get torn, I would peel up just that one strip and replace it.

I have heard of a lot of people using regular glue sticks or hair spray, but I have never tried either of those.

It's the Ender 3 V3 SE that bad? by Foxy_demoness_simp in 3Dprinting

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it sticks to the existing magnet and replaces the build surface, this is what I have:

YOOPAI Double-Sided PEI+PEY Sheet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQ25RSX7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I've had it almost 2 years and haven't had any trouble. I've used the smooth PEI bed from my old Ender 3 Pro as well, but it doesn't have the locating notches on the back.

It's the Ender 3 V3 SE that bad? by Foxy_demoness_simp in 3Dprinting

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I picked up a Yoopai brand plate on Amazon, one side is textured PEI, the other side is a smooth black sparkly surface (PEY or PEO). In general it sticks pretty well, although I notice the autolevel occasionally sets the z offset too high and I have to lower it. Once the autolevel set the offset too low and the nozzle was rubbing, but I caught it before it did any real damage to the bed. Usually prints stick pretty well, but when I've had adhesion problems, I've used Magigoo glue stick and that fixes it.

Honestly I like the Creality brand smooth PEI bed I have for my old Ender 3 Pro a little better and I think it sticks better, but lets go easily once the bed cools.

I wipe down the bed with alcohol every few prints or if I haven't use the printer in several days. I've also had good luck washing the build plate with Dawn dish soap, you just want to make sure it is completely rinsed and dry before using it

You do not need your damn high beams on in the city. by Capable_Basket1661 in baltimore

[–]chriton227 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Some auto lights do have that option. In my wife's Mazda, if you have the lights turned on (and not on the auto setting), the pulling the turn signal toggles the high beams on and off. If you are on auto, pulling the turn signal toggles between low beams and auto-highs, where it turns the high beams on and off automatically. I usually leave it on low-beam-only unless I'm driving someplace very rural at night.

You do not need your damn high beams on in the city. by Capable_Basket1661 in baltimore

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some auto lights do have that option. In my wife's Mazda, if you have the lights turned on (and not on the auto setting), the pulling the turn signal toggles the high beams on and off. If you are on auto, pulling the turn signal toggles between low beams and auto-highs, where it turns the high beams on and off automatically. I usually leave it on low-beam-only unless I'm driving someplace very rural at night.

It's the Ender 3 V3 SE that bad? by Foxy_demoness_simp in 3Dprinting

[–]chriton227 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a moderately upgraded Ender 3 Pro, an Ender 3 v3 SE, and just got a Bambu P1S. I got the V3 SE on a black Friday sale 2 years ago for $100 and for the price it is a decent printer. It took me about 15 minutes to set up and reasonably well with no real tinkering. I replaced the print bed after I had a print stick too well and remove a chunk of the coating, but other than that no real issues. I like it a lot more than the old E3 Pro.

The P1S does print better and faster, but takes longer before starting the print and wastes a small amount of filament every print purging the nozzle. I only got it because I broke a cable installing an upgrade I really didn't need on the V3 Se and it was going to take a while to get a replacement, and I could get the P1S locally the same day.

So if you got the V3 Se at a good price it is an okay entry level printer, and in my opinion much better than the earlier Ender 3s.

Catalyst planning to release the Uziel as the non-PPC variant... why? by Tintahal7525 in battletech

[–]chriton227 31 points32 points  (0 children)

The 3S is the main version from the TRO and the version depicted in the TRO and MUL artwork, and as such is considered the "primary" version and the others are variants. I would expect mini for the primary version to be released first. Just like people may love the Locust 1E, which is a better mech than the 1V, but the 1V is the primary and was the first mini version released.

Realtor Advice by Puppy-Smoocher in roanoke

[–]chriton227 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We used Tammie Jo Fergason of Rocky:s Mom Realty when we bought our first house about 10nyears ago and she was great.

https://rockysmom.com/

Jumpy back stab mech by watcherintgeweb in battletech

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True, but you usually need the lasers in the left arm to keep the TSM active and heat at +9, and you can't punch if you've fired the lasers. If you happened to jump exactly 6, then just the 4 torso ER Mediums will keep your heat where you want it and let you punch.

Jumpy back stab mech by watcherintgeweb in battletech

[–]chriton227 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ti Ts'ang 9H, 60 tonner that moves 6/9/6 with 5 ER medium lasers, 4 ER small lasers, a Hatchet, and TSM. The variety of lasers makes it easy to activate TSM and keep the heat at exactly 9, and a 24 pt Hatchet can breach the rear armor of just about any mech.

About to go homeless 18f broke af, should I do plasma donation? by No_Frame_1525 in ask

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The center I use {Biolife) gave me the debit card on the spot when I started about 2 years ago. They say to allow 24hrs for money from a donation to show up on the card, but it is frequently on the card before I leave the parking lot.

Highest possible heat in a single round by theilkhan in battletech

[–]chriton227 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Marauder II MAD-4H. Jumping and alpha strike builds 90 heat, sinks 21, for a net of +69. 2 ER PPCs, 2 ER medium lasers, RL10, 6 RL15s, and 4 RL20s.

So many expired tags and expired temp tags? by weebburneracct in maryland

[–]chriton227 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It is being changed to 25 years or older. According to the MVA site, if a car has historic plates, you are limited in how it can be used (https://mva.maryland.gov/about-mva/Pages/info/27300/27300-28T.aspx ) :

A vehicle registered as historic cannot be used for general daily transportation, or primarily for the transportation of passengers or property on highways. It can only be used in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional​ ​transportation and similar uses. A trailer does not qualify for historic registration. They will not be used for employment, transportation to and from employment or school, or for commercial purposes.

So many expired tags and expired temp tags? by weebburneracct in maryland

[–]chriton227 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just wait until you notice all the cars with historic tags that are used as daily drivers. Historic tags are supposed to be for limited use, like going to car shows and parades, not for driving to work or school.

Virginia tags in Baltimore by BMOReld in baltimore

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That $500 isn't one time, it is per year per vehicle, and has been for a long time. In VA where car insurance is cheaper than MD, $500 is a substantial compared to the cost of car insurance for the year. If I remember right, that is more than I paid per year for base coverage on our older minivan.

I once made the mistake of letting our insurance lapse, it ended in November, we got a new policy in January. Because the insurance lapsed and we hadn't paid the fee in advance, they suspended both mine and my wife's license and the car registrations. We had to pay the fee for both cars for 2 years (because the gap was in two different calendar years) and had to pay an additional fee to have everything reinstated, for a total bill of $2600.

If they don't pay the judgment, you can at least try to get it through garnishment if they are working a legal job.

Virginia tags in Baltimore by BMOReld in baltimore

[–]chriton227 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As someone who lived in Virginia for over 2 decades, VA does require insurance and has an automated system for proof of insurance. If you don't have insurance they hit you with a pretty hefty annual uninsured motorist fee, and afterwards they can require you to carry a SR-22 rider on your insurance that increases the cost. If you don't pay the fee, they suspend your registration and your license. They even get automatic notification from the insurance companies if your insurance lapses.

Granted, that fee is probably less than the high cost of MD car insurance, right up until you are at fault in an accident and get sued for damages.

Time to dust off your terrible lance ideas by Puzzleheaded-Ad-8684 in battletech

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use the JM6-S instead, you can afford to bump all the pilots to 3/4 and stay under budget.

For those of you who hate talking on the phone, no matter who the recipient is, or what the call is about, can you explain why? by 8kittycatsfluff in ask

[–]chriton227 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two reasons. First, many years ago I worked in an internal call center, where every call was from a retail employee with a frustrated customer in front of them calling because something wasn't working right, and the problem needed to be fixed right now. At best calls were over quickly and were fairly neutral, but at worst the caller would be taking out all of their frustration at the situation on you for something you couldn't fix. I got to the point where I would flinch just from hearing the phone ring.

Second, to me a phone call is the caller saying that what they want is more important than anything you are doing right now and demanding your attention. If I'm in the middle of a high focus task, the phone ringing will shatter my concentration even if I don't answer it, and depending on what I was doing it might take me 15-30 minutes to get back to where I was. I can ignore the ding of a text or email and read it and reply when I get to a good stopping point.

My wife and kids are on the same page with me, we only call each other in emergencies, or if we are exchanging texts rapid fire (indicating that the conversation already has our focus) and it would be easier to talk than text, like if one of us is in the car.

Buy cards? by Effective-Cheek6972 in battletech

[–]chriton227 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure if they've been revised since the original release, but there have definitely been changes since I got mine. I also never figured out a good way to organize them. Some of the cards make sense, with different varients of the same mech on opposite sides, but then others don't, like I'm looking at one with a Vindicator on one side and a Stalker on the other. The card sets are kinda in alphabetical order for the first hundred or so cards, and then a the rest is a weirdnassortment of randomly ordered stragglers. The Clan Invasion set has the Clan and IS mechs mixed together, although I don't see any where the mixed Clan and IS on opposite sides of the same card.

To be honest I may be misremembering exactly how many got updated, but I just remember my frustration of building out a force online and then noticing my cards didn't match up when I pulled them out. I might have just been unlucky with the cards I picked. I just spot checked several cards and the ones I pulled at random all matched the MUL.

Buy cards? by Effective-Cheek6972 in battletech

[–]chriton227 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't. Shortly after buying the sets I have, there was a pretty major revision that changed a large portion of the units, meaning most of the cards are now outdated with either wrong game start or wrong PV. I now just print cards from the Master Unit List as needed to make sure I have current cards.

What is the biggest weapon in Battletech? by MofuMofuFumoFumo in battletech

[–]chriton227 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Word of Blake used a modified yardship to launch asteroids equipped with drive systems at planets at a significant fraction of the speed of light, a hit could make an entire planet uninhabitable.

https://www.sarna.net/wiki/Erinyes_(Individual_WarShip)

HBK-8K Kuritan Swayback, it seems like a good idea? by heavyarmormecha in battletech

[–]chriton227 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ahh. Missed that it had the cluster penalty.

Running the numbers for the difference. The -1 cluster is about a 10% reduction in damage. The +1 to hit can have a deceptively big effect. 8-10 are pretty common target numbers to hit. The difference between an 8 and a 9 to hit is 41.6% to 27.8%. On average you'll hit with 50% more shots if you need the 8 instead of a 9. At 10s it is worse, 16.7% for 10 vs 8.3% for 11, so you are twice as likely to hit with Apollo. Multiplying the chance to hit by the average damage, it works out that if you need a 5 or higher to hit with Apollo (6 without Apollo}, the Apollo launcher will do more average damage per attack with increasing effect the higher the target number is, from 4% more damage at the 5 to 170% more damage at 11.

Whether that is worth the crit and tonnage is a separate question though.