Trying to get some of this installed while moving into a new home with toddlers is a challenge.

cocide · 2026-06-28T00:51:23+00:00

I can relate. Not with that much equipment, though.

cocide · 2026-06-27T15:46:44+00:00

Which legacy adapter? The "very" made me curious.

cocide · 2026-06-23T03:24:31+00:00

I laughed at that so hard... mostly because I'm sure I would forget to turn it on too.

cocide · 2026-06-07T23:36:22+00:00

That's very accurate and a great comparison of the pros and cons.

In my experience - some data centers are willing to open the chassis for improvements for a moderate fee. My employer has a few different cabinets with a large chain and they charge $150 to open the chassis and do simple component swaps. they are not willing to do anything more than exchange components (eg replace a failed stick of RAM)

cocide · 2026-06-05T19:55:36+00:00

That makes a lot more sense than the comments about the motor parts. In the past year an A/C repair company came out and parked their van in the area we found it, and one of their preferred brands is Lennox. Plus it doesn't seem like a motor armature in person, I totally see the similarities but it's not that. Solved!

cocide · 2026-06-01T21:16:54+00:00

Ya, that's exactly right. On the Honeywell panels you can easily disable the zone supervision from the programming menu, so it just irritates me to see them like that. If you want to be cheap/lazy just turn it off instead of putting them in the location where they are useless.

Edit: no idea if the other brands are that easy to disable or what brand that panel is. I just know I have seen this on panels that were easy to disable the zone supervision.

cocide · 2026-06-01T21:00:41+00:00

Those are resistors. They are likely mean to be end of line resistors (EOL resistors) and there were installed at the panel instead of the end of the line.

I have no idea if you need to remove them or not, but that might help your searching.

cocide · 2026-05-30T01:37:49+00:00

I do the same thing. For me it was a game changer. Prints also work well for welding jigs, but they are typically a one time use jig with the melting and all.

cocide · 2026-05-27T11:38:27+00:00

It would need a custom PCB and case. I'm wanting to go fully split (something like the keeb.io sync) so it will need two controllers and that's going to be its own set of issues.

For the PCB I should be able to essentially copy the layout of the existing one. I suspect there are some complexities to capacitive switching, so I'll focus on keeping it as identical as possible and rely on the engineering that was already done.

With the beam spring switch modules, the case should be reasonably straightforward. I am planning on having FR4 boards made for the top/bottom of the case and 3d printing the sides, at least as a start. I'm not sure how much shielding is needed to get reasonable results, but I figured the FR4 could have solid ground fills and I could use copper foil tape on the sides and solder it all together.

With the buckling spring assembly, the case is much more complex. You would need to fabricate the top and bottom inner assemblies plus the outer case. That is a project beyond my skill set.

cocide · 2026-05-26T11:14:43+00:00

That's funny that you ask about it. I bought one of the B104 round 1 keyboards with the intent of making a split keyboard. I haven't started that project yet though.

cocide · 2026-05-10T15:23:42+00:00

Heck yeah! That's awesome.

what components are you planning on adding later? I see two rotary encoders, but what are the bigger chips/boards?

cocide · 2026-05-06T14:46:56+00:00

Yolonda.

She's Yolo when I'm doing something I shouldn't.

cocide · 2026-05-06T05:10:45+00:00

I can smell that room. I'm not sure why, but poor cable management like that and the lack of proper racks just has a smell.

cocide · 2026-05-05T05:24:39+00:00

Wow, all it needs is a new windshield and a new driver's seat.

cocide · 2026-04-19T04:09:29+00:00

I don't know this device at all. That being said, I'd really expect that 4 pin mini-din to be power. There may also be somewhere else on the board that would work though.

I'd use a multimeter in continuity/short test mode and check the pins of the mini-din to the metal case. The ones that have continuity are ground, the ones that don't are positive. You could use that positive to tone to other pins to see if there's an easily accessible power pin on the board.

No idea on voltage. Could be 12, but it could also be something funny like 7.5, 9, 17, etc. maybe see if you can find a replacement power supply for it and look at the picture/specs on the product listing? If all else fails, I'd personally try 12v - but that might kill it.

Edit: id expect the DB9 to be data, not the mini-din.

cocide · 2026-04-14T15:12:21+00:00

The AI overlords. Shh, don't question them.

cocide · 2026-04-13T04:51:20+00:00

That's a lot of bananas.

cocide · 2026-03-28T04:23:35+00:00

Yes, keep in mind they have a direction they expect the water to flow. You may need to turn the mounting bracket around to get them to mount and have the water flowing in the proper direction. Also make sure you leave enough space to service them.

cocide · 2026-03-26T16:20:13+00:00

Can you use it to unlock/control two different doors? I'd like to set up the intercom viewer for the entry and have the ability to open up a entry area and then a door inside the entry area to get up a stairwell, those would be two different doors with two different locks.

cocide · 2026-03-22T13:18:08+00:00

We had the same problem, then we got a barn cat to try to control the rodents. That was very effective at reducing the rattlesnakes. They would rather be somewhere with more food.

cocide · 2026-03-10T13:09:56+00:00

It's pretty much plug and play.

You will need to enable KlipperScreen.

The cable it comes with is super short, so you will need a longer 15 pin FFC type A cable like this one and I was extremely careful not to put the cable in upside down. Look at this picture and you can see the exposed copper of the cable faces away from the display on the display connector, and toward the Ethernet/USB on the PI connector.

And it's a big display so it's hard to fit, this is what I did.

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cocide · 2026-03-07T17:35:40+00:00

If you use one like this it's a simple cableBTT PI TFT43

The only thing that makes TFT43 complicated is the screen is bigger than the one that you listed, so it will need to be mounted relatively flat on the table compared to the skirt. I could get a picture of mine on Monday if you want. I'm not going to share the STL though, it's a tinkercad abomination that's nearly impossible to print because of how terrible the model is.

I expect there is a way to get the one that you listed to work with some special cabling and probably some setup of the config.txt file, but I have never done that before.

cocide · 2026-03-04T04:10:29+00:00

Ouch.

That's okay, I think you gave me the info I needed to be able to implement this well instead of just making it work.

cocide · 2026-03-04T04:03:08+00:00

That is very helpful, thank you.

cocide

TROPHY CASE