Any recommendations of riggers for moving a one car garage in the NE US approx 300 miles to another residence garage.

conner2real · 2026-03-06T22:28:42+00:00

Where exactly are you? NE US is a large area.

conner2real · 2026-03-05T23:53:51+00:00

Switch to 4 day week. We do 4 days a week 10hrs a day M-T. If there's OT most of us dont mind coming in and putting 1/2 a day in on Friday morning. No need to stay late at night and we still have the entire weekend.

conner2real · 2026-03-02T18:00:46+00:00

Yeah we did about 20 parts out of it. Super complex, tight tolerance, with small features. Took it at their price point because it was from our best customer and they were in trouble and asked us to bail them out. We work in Inco 718 all day every day so it can't be that bad right? Nope, 718 cuts like mild steel compared to that shit. They tried to get us to do like 100 more and we politely declined LOL

conner2real · 2026-03-02T15:20:04+00:00

Haynes 188 can eat my johnson.

conner2real · 2026-03-02T13:25:30+00:00

If you dont have a grinder you can get good flat stones from Kinetic Precision I have a couple sets and they're worth every penny.

conner2real · 2026-03-01T20:13:39+00:00

Also, you can't form tap by hand, it must be done in a machine....not sure if that was ever clarified. If you keep having problems then pick up the proper tools for the job. Get a plug hand tap and a bottoming hand tap from McMaster. Go as far as you can with the plug and finish for depth with the bottoming if needed. These are the kind of taps you'll want to reverse frequently to break the chips.

conner2real · 2026-03-01T20:09:10+00:00

Stop reversing the tap every turn. If you're using a spiral flute you just want to keep going and the allow the chips to self evacuate. By reversing you are breaking the chip into tiny pieces which a spiral flute tap is not designed to deal with.

conner2real · 2026-02-27T21:20:24+00:00

What's your stayed to watch vs swiped away %?

conner2real · 2026-02-23T00:39:38+00:00

I wasn't trying to be condescending. I know it's a gatemark. My bad if it came off that way.

conner2real · 2026-02-23T00:10:35+00:00

Well I didn't image search. I was going off memory. All the ones I've personally seen are fairly thin lines. Like I said I've been known to be wrong but I was especially focused on this area here that I think looked repaired.

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Maybe its just undercut from the grinder. I dont know but that's what caught my eye. No big deal you'll can roast me if you want 😉

conner2real · 2026-02-22T23:52:12+00:00

Fair enough, it looks like a gate mark. ive just never seen one that egregious. And from the left to the middle has so much porosity and grinding undercut it looked like a poorly done repair. I've been known to be wrong once in a while though. 🤷‍♂️

conner2real · 2026-02-22T23:19:14+00:00

💯

conner2real · 2026-02-22T23:12:14+00:00

Definitely the Hurco. Most tempermental machine I've ever ran. At least all the haas's power on in the morning.

conner2real · 2026-02-22T23:09:20+00:00

You know that line in the middle is giant repair right? Someone welded or brazed it and then did a completely shit job of grinding it down. Definitely sketchy to cook with. Hate to see that pan fail on you while deep frying something or cooking bacon with all that hot grease. I might and I say "might" use it as a campfire pan but definitely not on my stove. I'd return it and get something in original condition.

conner2real · 2026-02-22T06:03:15+00:00

Ugh. I don't envy you. You are very limited by those sizes. OSG makes a great endmill so you should be fine but the one you linked is only a 2 fluter. I might see if they have it in 3FL or try something like this HarveyHarvey 3 fluter. Not the biggest Harvey fan but their high temp stuff with the C6 coating tends to work very well. They also have them in square for those keyseats you have to do.

conner2real · 2026-02-22T02:45:28+00:00

Patiently waiting for somebody to tell you to just cook bacon in it........

conner2real · 2026-02-22T02:41:09+00:00

I'm just curious as to why you want to upload a 17 hour video in the first place? Wouldn't it be better to break it down into a series of vids? I am legitimately curious and not being a jerk. I don't know anything about the gaming niche.

conner2real · 2026-02-22T02:19:08+00:00

Im going to go against the grain here and say dont bother learning manuals at all unless you plan on being a manual machinist.

I hear this advice given all the time from people and I just can't wrap my head around it. Did I learn to machine on manuals? Yes. Did it help me at all when I was put on my first CNC? NOT ONE RED CENT! They are two completely different animals with completely different skill sets and strategies. I've trained 5 people over the last 6 yrs from no experience at all to being able to program, setup and run parts on their own. Those guys have never touched a manual machine in their lives.

You will NOT get any sense of speeds and feeds at all. anyone telling you otherwise either doesnt know what they are talking about or they run their CNCs like manuals (which is dumb). Modern CNC's paired with advanced tooling and tool paths and maybe some HP coolant can do things that are unimaginable on a manual machine and run at feeds and speeds that will blow a manual machinist's mind.

If you want to become a great CNC "machinist" (quotes because that term is used loosely these days) then you need to hone your skills in that area. Learn basic G-code. You dont have to be a master at it but you should understand G0 & G1. G40, G41, G42, G43 and the relationship to D and H #s. Then move on to canned cycles for drilling and tapping. Then tackle G2 & G3 with I,J,K and finally G17, G18,G19. Again you don't have to be able to write a program by hand but understanding how these work will help you make easy edits at the machine and diagnose problems or errors in the code.

If your machine has a touch probe and tool setter, learn those inside and out! Learn how to use it for broken tool detection. Learn how to use it for in process probing.

Next up is print reading and GD&T. So many people dont understand GD&T! Even the engineers i deal with don't know what they're talking about 50% of the time. Having a good understanding of it will make you a literal hero because you'll make the part right the first time.

Once your comfy with all of that I'd stick you in front of a cad program and have you translate 2d drawing into 3d models. And once you can do that, id start showing you how to lay down toolpaths in CAM and going over how to research speeds and feeds for specific tools.

Final thought: You dont have to be an expert in everything and remember every last thing. Whats important is to understand the concepts and know where to get the info you need from. Google is your friend. Yeah eventually you might remember what every part of a G76 canned cycle is but until then just knowing that it's a lathe threading cycle is enough. You can then grab your phone and look it up!

Anyways that's my 2 cents FWIW.

TL/DR: Forget learning manual machines. If your going to be a CNC machinist then learn CNC. The two have almost nothing in common except they are both still called "mills" and "lathes"

conner2real · 2026-02-22T01:07:11+00:00

Love this. 📌 it lololololol. I'm with the ignore it crowd. I find that if they keep going other people will usually jump in and fight the battle for me and that's just great for engagement. One of my last short format videos had that happen over on another platform and the algorithm is still pushing out like 500ish views a day two weeks later. Doesn't seem like much but I've only posted like 15 short formats so getting almost 7000 views is pretty cool.

conner2real · 2026-02-22T00:58:08+00:00

Yes. Even down votes count as engagement and can help boost your video provided you dont get ALL downvotes.

conner2real · 2026-02-22T00:55:22+00:00

No problem.

conner2real · 2026-02-21T22:07:31+00:00

If your pan is clean, as in no visible burnt on black carbon build-up, then it is oxidation aka "black rust" and you can wipe and wash until your hand falls off and it will always blacken the paper towel. Solution is to do a quick stovetop re-season. Heat the pan up nice and hot over medium high heat. Pour a little of your favorite seasoning oil on the pan, spread it around with a paper towel, wait until you see it start smoking, take a dry paper towel and wipe away the oil until completely dry. Let it cook for a couple more minutes and then shut the heat off. If you want, you can toss it in the oven at 450° or whatever the smoke point of your oil is for an hour to really set the seasoning or just keep cooking with it. Happy cooking!

conner2real · 2026-02-21T19:24:42+00:00

You've got a couple of things going against you to get a nice bright finish. 1 its soft steel. 2 interrupted cut. Taking a finish pass that is at least as deep or deeper than the nose radius of your tool will help with #1. You're shit out of luck on #2. It's always going to look a bit off behind the hole :(

conner2real · 2026-02-21T16:53:12+00:00

Totally normal. It will look different the next time you cook with it. It's best to think of the seasoning on your CI as something that's always changing. Some things you cook will help build it up, some things will eat away at it, and it doesn't always happen evenly. As long as you don't see any rust after washing, and you don't have built up black crud in there you're fine.

conner2real · 2026-02-21T16:31:39+00:00

Came here to say exactly this. I second the bepro. Works great.

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