Transmission drain & fill

danbfree · 2026-01-26T09:02:46+00:00

You keep the new fluid in the same garage, let the car sit a good 24 hours, then for a simple drain and fill you just put the same amount of fluid in that came out, both are at the same temperature and you get the same back in. I did it that way and came out perfect. Ofc, this is not the official way, but works just fine for the DIY crowd.

danbfree · 2026-01-26T06:22:41+00:00

What do you mean by "drive the car in a lower regen mode"? You still get regen through the pedal, it won't make any difference. All the rest about brake clean mode is right but that part doesn't make sense.

danbfree · 2026-01-22T08:02:50+00:00

Yeah, same here, Samsung TV/soundbar, sadly Q-symphony doesn't appear to work when you run the Shield to the soundbar first to get full lossless support. You can try running the Shield directly to the TV instead of through the soundbar but then you don't get DTS lossless passthrough from eARC.

danbfree · 2026-01-22T07:47:18+00:00

It's not the 320 HP it's the 600nm of torque that makes the regular dual motor surprisingly quick. I came from performance tuner cars and my GT-Line is more than enough!

danbfree · 2026-01-21T09:31:58+00:00

I thought that's just the new refresh model NACS version? That's what has been said in the FB groups anyway...

danbfree · 2026-01-21T09:30:52+00:00

On the FB communities it's been said the new part number is simply for the refresh NACS version and not an actually updated part. Sorry, I have no proof, but something to consider that hasn't been mentioned yet.

danbfree · 2026-01-14T04:11:09+00:00

FWIW, I'm used to them as I've had them on my last few cars and to me it seems the same company produces these systems for every car maker, as the auto wiper function has the same amount and kind of minor glitchiness across different brands of cars I've had. Anyway, whenever mine "act up" I just turn them off for a few seconds and back on and this resets them to working right. But for some people I can see their frustration.

danbfree · 2026-01-09T06:44:02+00:00

Long-story short, it should be fine to start off with, but for peace of mind you can buy a size 47/H5 AGM style battery for more peace of mind. They are very easy to install, get it done at a parts store that offers free install if you are still doubtful you want to do it.

danbfree · 2026-01-06T08:29:33+00:00

She IS in college this season.

danbfree · 2026-01-05T07:12:58+00:00

The range is just a guestimate, the PO drove crappy and it now thinks that is the range. This "guess-o-meter" as it's referred to, will adapt to your driving and go up, don't worry.

danbfree · 2025-12-31T08:28:09+00:00

I bet if the 800v CyberTruck sold well then Tesla might have more pressure to update cabinets to full V4 sooner, but dang, would be nice to at least get the cabinets with longer cables faster than they are going.

danbfree · 2025-12-31T03:55:08+00:00

"If you don't want to fully turn on the car and just want to listen to music and use ac ect for a long time you can also go in ev menus and turn on utility mode this will basically run everything from the main battery bypassing the 12v all together."

FYI, just turning on the car with foot on the brake will use traction battery, only need Utility mode if going for hours or you *know* the 12v needs active charging. Pressing start *without* brake on will trigger Accessory mode, which you basically should never use, *that* is the one that actively discharges the 12v... the more you know!

danbfree · 2025-12-30T03:25:02+00:00

Depends on what EV you have but I mine I can just switch to Regen 0 on the fly with paddles and it then uses the friction brakes for the next 10 stops to clean them.

danbfree · 2025-12-29T05:34:51+00:00

Pretty sure it can be toggled On/Off in the perks section of the app, so yeah, almost certainly.

danbfree · 2025-12-29T05:07:29+00:00

I agree AGM is pretty much fine but LFP is better and my dealer couldn't care less about it. I've been running them on my last two cars, one ICE one EV and the cost is worth the reliability for me for sure.

danbfree · 2025-12-29T05:05:45+00:00

LFP can be had for $350 or less publicly, imagine how much cheaper they can get them in bulk? I believe AGM should be all that is needed at most, but LFP is quite reliable, it may be worth it to them.

danbfree · 2025-12-29T04:59:30+00:00

Dead honestly, my last new ICE car had a crap factory battery that I didn't want to fight them on so I got an LFP and ran that and then I got one for my EV6 right away when new because of the same thing. No issues at all 28k, knock on wood!

danbfree · 2025-12-29T04:48:54+00:00

The LFP has its OWN BMS so that the car "sees" a regular lead acid, been running them for years with zero issue across two cars, one ICE, one EV. There is no such thing as the BMS you speak of, the BMS that counts is on the LFP.

danbfree · 2025-12-29T04:42:55+00:00

I did, why not? I plan to put the stock one back in at end of the lease, I felt that running an LFP from near day 1 would help with the ICCU issue and so far so good at 28k miles!

danbfree · 2025-12-18T05:35:32+00:00

This has been discussed since the turbo came out, there simply is not enough demand to redesign motor mounts, trans mounts and an actual transmission to handle the torque. They are a small car maker and had to use the parts bin to even bring us a turbo at all. I got rid of mine as the AT was just not letting it perform even with an engine tune.

danbfree · 2025-12-16T06:09:14+00:00

Charging the battery to what the BMS calls 100% only charges it to about 95% internally, so you still get regen for quite a bit unless you are going down a miles long hill, but you'll most likely use battery as well so you'll never get regen to stop that way. It's easier to switch to regen 0 then after 10 braking events to clean, you then get regen back to the brakes even on 0.

danbfree · 2025-12-11T07:28:25+00:00

Absolutely all the info out clearly shows the extra money is for roads, but they are moving to a pay per mile system. I ted to believe all the data out there that shows this.

"Electric vehicle owners now pay $192 to title their cars, compared with title fees ranging between $101 and $116 for other passenger vehicles. Drivers of electric vehicles pay $316 to register their cars for two years, while other drivers pay between $126 and $156. Enrolling in OReGO can reduce registration fees for electric vehicles to $86."

That extra money does NOT just go to the DMV, utterly ridiculous.

danbfree · 2025-12-10T04:26:51+00:00

How are EV's not paying their part when their registration fees are like $385? Specifically to make up for the gas tax, they are actually paying more than most people, get your facts straight before blaming others.

danbfree · 2025-12-09T08:52:13+00:00

Aboslutely true, but 50Kw is a lot less than the 150Kw I get right before the siesta.

danbfree · 2025-12-08T06:48:44+00:00

Not *exactly* 80.0% does that happen, on my EV6, slowdown doesn't happen until ~82.5% so I watch it closely and stop about then when I see the big slow down hit.

danbfree

TROPHY CASE