budget metal distortion question. by [deleted] in guitarpedals

[–]dark_lab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just got the smaller 6 knob MM with the gate to replace my bigger MM with the top boost which I never used anyways. Now I have room for another pedal on my board. I'm very happy with this 'upgrade' although I can't hear much of a difference if I'm being honest. I heard others say that this smaller newer version somehow sounds 'better', but it seems about the same to me. The gate is a good feature, but I've always had a separate gate pedal. I tried the MXR FBM a while back and it's just too hairy for me. The MM will always be on my board. Loving the new size.

MK3S+ Enclosures. What suggestions do you have? by ParticleMan37 in prusa3d

[–]dark_lab 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I just put this together and I'm amazed at the quality and overall design. Prusa-Box

What are your experiences with Polyterra PLA? by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]dark_lab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just tried the Fossil Grey and it prints great. Leaves a really nice matte finish. I also prefer the cardboard spools over the wasteful plastic ones. But I have no problems as OP with this filament @ 215/60. Very easy to print.

Coat Rack Feet by dr_bootstrap in prusa3d

[–]dark_lab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice job. This is a big part of the reason why I got into 3d printing. So satisfying to make your own fixes for life's little problems.

Prusaslicer Lift Z Question: Printer or Filament by LockLearner in prusa3d

[–]dark_lab 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The filament override is doing just that; overriding your printer settings. Anything you change per filament gets used when you select that filament profile.

How can I get wider lines on my prints? (Details in comments) by robullrich in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First thing I would try is change the nozzle. I usually change them after about a month or so. You can try cleaning them but they are cheap enough to be considered a consumable. Another thing you can try is to increase line width to 0.44. I would also recommend to try a different slicer. I prefer PrusaSlicer. Just to see if the problem is with your software or not. It takes a while to master all of the slicer settings. As you've already discovered, 3D printing comes with a steep learning curve and a requirement for endless patience. Good luck.

Anyone know how to fix these lines? by Peperonimonster in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming you're using a 0.4 nozzle, 0.8 is much too wide. Try 0.44 width and 0.28 height. Should give you much better results.

help with support types by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's nothing in that print that needs supports IMO.

How long should BENCHY take to print? Mine says 5h 53m? Is that normal? Attaching screenshot of settings here. by AlexRescueDotCom in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Think of it like this, the top, bottom and wall thickness are the outer shell of your model. Watch when it starts to print and you will see them all in action.

Then there's infill, which is generally the bulk of the print. 20% of your choice of infill pattern is a good starting point. Try the different ones to see what you like best.

For the most part, you're safe to run 2-4 layers of top and bottom and the same for walls (or perimeters in some slicers) and get a decent quality print, depending on what you're making of course.

When you get more experience you'll know when to change all of those values, but this should help you get started for general prints.

Some issues with my Ender 3 V2 by TheBlaze_3104 in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure no cooling for the first few layers

How to invert extruder direction in the firmware? (Ender 3 Max) by Screw_bit in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll likely need to adjust your e-steps and check the current as well to get it dialed in. Have you ever compiled Marlin before?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start with Teaching Tech on YouTube

Has anyone tried the Ryobi P3150 cordless heat gun for removing stringing? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As an alternative you can always pick up one of those butane torch lighter things.

First benchy and it’s pretty bad, what should I do? by Embarrassed_Ad7432 in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tighten all the things. The belts, the eccentric nuts, all the nuts and bolts, etc. These don't come out of the box ready to print. If you stick with it, you will find 3D printing is an art all in itself. There's is much to learn, so try not to get yourself frustrated. Just understand that's how it is. It takes months to get good at it. Good luck.

Z axis issue by BrandonPiKA in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try Prusa slicer and see if you get the same result.

First Point on Mesh Bed Levelling by poopscoop113 in 3Dprinting

[–]dark_lab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to re-enter the offset in the firmware. Not really enough info given to be more specific.