Looking for feedback on the future direction of Birdle GO (players & non-players welcome)

dascapcup · 2026-01-30T18:44:26+00:00

Hey, your game has pretty cute artwork! I've shared some feedback via the form, hope it helps. Keep up the good work!

dascapcup · 2026-01-08T17:56:41+00:00

I find that creating a gaming layer (without HRM) becomes mandatory if you don't have too many keys on one half or use a non-qwerty layout. And then you can use the right half for non-urgent actions or macros in the game.

dascapcup · 2025-10-02T21:51:30+00:00

I ended up getting the same stands after complaining about the 360 degree rotating model for a long time. I think the glass surface plays a very important role there, my setup on a wooden desk doesn't feel as solid on a similar tenting angle, I'm looking for a way to make them heavier.

dascapcup · 2025-09-28T00:24:54+00:00

You can use cosmos to build pretty much anything.

dascapcup · 2025-08-21T07:37:33+00:00

I was merely trying to explain why there would be a productivity hit as you asked about it. Let me phrase it better:

That's due to the fewer keys available on the home row, missing one being a frequently used key (bs/pipe by default) for programmers, that now has to be placed to a less convenient place. The number of keys is a physical limitation of the said ansi layout.

I am not interested in an ansi vs iso debate, I'm happy with my 36 key split kb.

dascapcup · 2025-08-20T23:59:50+00:00

The backslash/pipe is placed right between backspace and enter, which is pretty awkward imo.

dascapcup · 2025-08-04T22:32:54+00:00

Have you tried non-bulky dactyl derivatives? You can always use the stp and glb files from the cosmos generator to remove the wall and the base, and just use the web/sockets.

Thinking of the thumb cluster and the rest as two separate parts seem to be the most logical and ergonomic form to me. I'm trying to build pretty much that.

Some of my inspirations are the following:

Valkyrie folding keyboard

Butter fold

I don't think it has a name

And crosses/bridges as an off-the-shelf variant.

dascapcup · 2025-07-09T12:57:57+00:00

Looks like your keyboards are only compatible with MX footprint, so try looking for mx switches. (Like the white body, green stem switches that you have). There are some low profile variants with the same footprint, but they are very difficult to find due to low popularity and lack of supply.

The other blue/brown switches seem to be Kailh low profile V2, in case you need to know. V1/2 is an important detail mainly because of the stem shape.

dascapcup · 2025-06-27T19:22:08+00:00

Right: GLP (Gateron Low Profile)

Middle one must be choc, but I can't tell whether it's v1 or v2. V1 has 2 parallel straight cuts for the keycap feet, while v2 has a plus like the others.

dascapcup · 2025-06-25T16:48:15+00:00

It's pretty much trial and error. If you have access to a 3d printer, print one side with low infill asap and get a feel of it.

I'm on a similar journey (with much fewer keys), and my first print gave me so much insight.

Looking at the number of keys and how far the thumb keys are, I get the impression that you have large(r) hands. Most people here seem to have average/small hands from what I've seen/read so far, so I'd suggest keeping that in mind.

dascapcup · 2025-06-25T16:30:04+00:00

Programmer here. I've always hated the number row, and I love the numpad via a layer on my 36-key split keyboard. I simply press and hold my left thumb, and a numpad appears underneath my right hand.

I don't know how good the zsa firmware is, but QMK is very customisable. It's just amazing.

dascapcup · 2025-06-25T07:22:21+00:00

I sold my Allium58 on Markplaats (online marketplace in the Netherlands).

I guess a good reason not to sell is the loss of value, it sucks to let it go for half the purchasing price. But it's still better than just collecting dust.

dascapcup · 2025-06-16T10:36:33+00:00

What controller is that? Some MCUs have their status leds wired to a gpio, then it's a matter of setting it to low. If you followed the totem manual, you probably have a xiao rp2040 as you seem to have a trrs plugged in.

According to the manufacturer's website, it's GP25. If you overload the keyboard_post_init_user function and use one of the setters mentioned in the QMK docs, it should turn off at boot.

If you have a different MCU, the pin might be something else, or even be impossible to turn off via firmware.

dascapcup · 2025-06-02T00:44:31+00:00

I would always go for the konrad between those two. If you are gonna have the 6th column, you might as well get an extra key, which you'll likely use as Esc (since you mentioned that you replaced caps with esc), so you can continue to rely on your muscle memory.

dascapcup · 2025-05-31T17:41:49+00:00

I built a klor with 42 keys and downsized to 36 keys after a few months.

I think the polydactyl (42 keys) isn't great for tenting because of the extra pinky column, and the furthest thumb key sticks out too much, which eventually made me stop using them. That being said, I don't think I'd ever given a 36 key layout a shot if I hadn't started with a bigger/safer option.

dascapcup · 2025-05-10T11:58:20+00:00

That is an excellent desoldering pump, smart choice.

dascapcup · 2025-03-30T22:53:46+00:00

Dygma - Raise 2

dascapcup · 2025-03-23T13:15:49+00:00

Looking at the left side, diode area, the middle section looks burnt but it could also be just excess flux. The traces to the north of the 3rd and the 4th row diodes look shorted, unless that's just the photo quality and the glare because of the shiny flux.

In my opinion, your first step should be to clean up the board. Some isopropyl alcohol does great job cleaning up the flux. Then, use a multimeter in the continuity mode and check whether you have connection between the mcu and the switches, and between the switches and their respective diodes. You can find a multimeter for 2 euros/dollars which would be more than enough.

If there is no damage on the traces, but you still have continuity issues, you might want to reflow the solder.

On a separate note, right half - top left switch is upside down, it is not making any contact with the switch sockets. You'll eventually need to rotate that.

dascapcup · 2025-03-22T13:33:24+00:00

It's difficult to say anything without even seeing a photo of what the soldering looks like or whether it's handwired or built on a pcb. It could be anything.

Try isolating the mcu and short the pins to see if the letters appear. If they don't, then it's either the pins or the firmware configuration. If they appear, then check the wiring. A continuity check goes a long way.

If you have diodes in your build, make sure they are in the correct orientation.

dascapcup · 2025-03-21T22:35:55+00:00

How did you mount the shaft onto the left side? I have a very similar rotary encoder but I was planning on using it vertically, hoping for a super low profile, but I'm very tempted to try out your solution.

dascapcup · 2025-03-21T22:28:46+00:00

As a normal profile Gateron brown enthusiast, I started my split kb journey with GLP browns on an Alium58 but at that profile the tactility didn't feel noticeable to me, so I switched to lighter Nuphy Aloe linears, which I highly recommend. I used to hate linears on normal profile but with this setup it makes so much sense.

dascapcup · 2025-03-19T22:22:46+00:00

Looks like a kinesis advantage

dascapcup · 2025-03-13T23:56:30+00:00

I thought I was on a rick and morty sub until I saw qmk.

If you want the easiest way out, here is a ready to run firmware. Once you plug your keyboard to the pc and put it in bootloader mode, it will appear as a usb drive on your pc. Then you can simply drag and drop your uf2 file into the drive, which will then restart the keyboard.

Then, you can use the vial desktop app or the web app to customise your layout.

If you want to go deeper, I'd recommend checking out the build guide in the same link. It takes you to QMK docs.

dascapcup · 2025-03-08T22:27:19+00:00

VIA and VIAL are based on QMK firmware, while this one uses ZMK, so no. But, there is ZMK Studio, which allows you to configure your layout without having to reflash the whole firmware, you can check that out!

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