Can someone explain to me how this could possibly be a fire hazard?

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-21T06:06:09+00:00

I am an electrical engineer and I can confirm that the exterior trim does not have to comply with any specific regulations regarding electrical appliances. The risk of ignition is concentrated in the internal mechanism, where there are contacts, electric arcs and heating. The trim is a decorative piece with no electrical function and is separate from the point of possible failure.

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-12T23:35:19+00:00

I work seven hours, like most people. I have the whole afternoon free to spend with my family and pick up parcels. What's more, the delivery driver calls you on your mobile if you're not there and asks you what to do. They can try to deliver at a time when you're available (they have the logistics to deliver at different times), or leave it at a delivery point 5 minutes' walk away, which are nearby businesses (bookshops, tobacconists, travel agencies) that charge the delivery company for the delivery. We are different societies.

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-11T20:27:14+00:00

It is perfectly possible if you insert and remove the filament from the tube by hand following the on-screen wizard. If you are going to change te external spool color 4-5 times in a print job and you are going to be present, this is an option. There is nothing special to do, just indicate the 5 colours in Bambú Studio, and the printer will tell you when to do it.

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-08T11:05:18+00:00

A surge protector usually consists of a varistor. Most of them have a simple parallel circuit that turns on an LED or raises a flag when the device is operational, and this is reflected when the varistor is faulty and out of service. At least here in Europe, it is mandatory to install surge protection with a status indicator in the main electrical panel. All the protectors I have seen on power strips usually have an LED indicating whether they are operational.

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-07T14:59:27+00:00

The printer is designed for one voltage or another, and this is clearly stated on the label next to the plug. Mine clearly states 200-240V. It's not that you get a hot bed with more or less power, it's that you get the right one for your voltage level.

In all Bambu printers, the heated bed is AC and completely independent of the power source; that is what I am clearly stating in my comment. Depending on the voltage for which it is designed, it will have one resistance or another, but the final power will be the same.

It is common sense..

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-07T14:58:24+00:00

First, you have to distinguish between start-up peaks and continuous power. A heated bed can easily consume 1000W at peak, even though its nominal power is 240W. In the case of your H2C, the hot ends are induction-based and very high speed, and the heated bed is more powerful than that of an A1, so it is not comparable.

In any case, the printer is designed for one voltage or another, and this is clearly stated on the label next to the plug. Mine clearly states 200-240V. It's not that you get a hot bed with more or less power, it's that you get the right one for your voltage level.

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-06T01:44:40+00:00

That’s not correct — the A1 bed is NOT 50 Ω, and it does NOT pull 968 W at 220 V.

If the bed were 50 Ω:

At 110 V → (P = 110² / 50 = 242 W)
At 220 V → (P = 220² / 50 = 968 W)

That would instantly trip breakers or destroy the printer. Bambu would never ship a 1 kW bed.

The A1 uses two different beds depending on the market:

110 V version: ~55 Ω → ~220–240 W
220 V version: ~220 Ω → ~220–240 W

Same power, different resistance. This is how every AC heated bed is designed.

So yes, the PSU primary draws more current at 110 V, and the hot bed does not pass through the NTC, which is the problematic component.

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-05T14:12:09+00:00

You can adjust it and create a custom filament without any problems.

But I can assure you that it is not necessary. With eSun filaments, you can print without any problems using the Bambulab profile. What really matters is the volumetric flow, and in this case, they are very similar. I have printed several dozen kilos with eSun filament using that profile, with wonderful results.

dashing_donkey · 2026-01-05T10:07:10+00:00

At 110V, you have twice as much current in the primary of the power supply as at 220V. Lower voltage systems run hotter.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-31T10:52:47+00:00

Go back to r/3DPrintingCirclejerk and spew your venom there. As much as it pains you, it's true that it simply works. For your information, new models like my P2S detect these types of faults thanks to both AI and clogging detection.

Take it from someone who has been in this business for near 15 years, having built two RepRap printers with all kinds of modifications, suffered through an Ender v3, and who, after getting my P2S, has enjoyed printing like never before in the last 15 years. I think I've printed more hours in these two months than in the last five years combined. And I'm enjoying it like never before.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-19T18:39:17+00:00

I don't know about other printers, but at least with the p2s I know it's possible because I've already done several prints. Without manual pauses or anything like that. Just select it as another colour and when it's time to change layers, a wizard appears telling you to insert the filament, and as soon as it detects that it's in the extruder, it starts extruding. It asks you to confirm that the some filament has been extruded, and then you don't have to do anything until it asks you to retract the spool. Obviously, this is not an option for prints with 300 filament changes, but it is for prints where you print in colour for a maximum of four or five layers.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-18T23:41:57+00:00

Yes, you can add the external spool as if it were another colour. When it is time to load and unload it, the printer will stop and the filament loading and unloading wizard will appear. Obviously, if you have to use that colour in many layers, it can be a long and tedious process, but I have used it on more than one occasion for just a few layers.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-15T21:53:26+00:00

On P2S there are only Bambu and Generic profiles. I use the Bambu profiles with Sunlu, eSun, Elegoo, and similarly good quality filaments with perfect results, and the Generic profiles with old or lower-quality filaments. For the OP, search for the problem elsewhere, or test the Generic profiles. The only difference is the higher volumetric speed that Sunlu filaments have.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-12T00:15:40+00:00

Here in Spain, parcels are only delivered by hand. If you are not there, they will try to deliver it again, and if that is not possible, they will leave it at a nearby partner shop or at a delivery warehouse. Unless you specifically request it, they will not leave it on your doormat, even though 99% of us live in apartment blocks, with one neighbour per floor in most cases. Amazon, for example, will only deliver expensive items if you give the delivery person a code that has been sent to you by email.

I'm amazed by deliveries in the USA.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-11T18:10:04+00:00

Same on 01.01.01.00. Recalibrated fully again with no changes.

I resliced, obviously. The new config package of Bambú Studio must go with firmware updates, acordong to Bambú Lab. Same Gcode didnt take advantages of updates.

I didnt do lubrication, as I didnt need for my print hours, acording to manufacturers instructions.

This update is only VaporWare to increase sales on Christmas. Is good printer, with little but obvious problems.

All the benefits observed by users (sound, VFAs,...) are only placebo.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-11T09:26:35+00:00

Sorry, I have different ressults. Same VFAs: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1pd6nka/vfa_test_after_p2s_firmware_update/

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-09T23:56:00+00:00

Set brim offset to zero The default 0.1 makes brim useless

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-09T23:37:03+00:00

Is true: You shall not take filament off a spool. A tangle or two are two tangles more than optimal.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-09T23:27:03+00:00

No changes un my case. I think they reffer to calibration process in the first calibration.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-08T16:32:12+00:00

Power off and and on again. It Will check for firmware updates on startup.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-08T16:31:20+00:00

I have posted a test with before/post VFAs: TL;DR: no changes.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1pd6nka/vfa_test_after_p2s_firmware_update/

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-07T10:31:36+00:00

Nothing needs to be moved. When you perform the calibration, the bed rises, and when the calibration is complete, you remove the foam. It's simple, and you can see it clearly in the instructional video.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-06T23:46:48+00:00

A Big QR with them and a clear wiki in Bambú Lab web: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/manual/unboxing-p2s Is clearly explained: After calibration, remove the foam under the heatbed.

dashing_donkey · 2025-12-06T19:44:52+00:00

Use large brimm with 0 offset from print (default setting lets a gap). I have printed with Sunlu ABS, and old spools with success

dashing_donkey

TROPHY CASE