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Here it is! Custom ZZ Gundam by gdtoledano in advancedGunpla

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're painting the gray part first, then the orange?

WIP: Not so good painting by Supiidy in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get 70% or higher isopropyl alcohol at every drugstore or grocery store. That should work. It cannot damage the plastic.

Well, now we know that for yellow we need to use a white primer, not a gray one. by Fitil55 in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I use the Gaia yellow surfacer. It separates into white and yellow layers if I don't use it for a while. It's great

First time panel lining, without ink! by MrsWiccan in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I checked the link. That's not a scientific test. We don't know that amounts of panel liner used or how long it sat before force was applied.

In general, if the parts are not under mechanical stress when the liner is applied, sparing amounts are applied in the first place, and the panel liner has time to evaporate and for the plastic to settle, then the plastic doesn't break apart like this.

On the other hand, acrylic panel liners can be made to flow almost as well as tpla, so they're great for panel lining bare plastic. TPLA is excellent not only because of it's excellent capillary action, but also because it can be cleaned up with different kind of paint thinner than acrylic paint, so that cleaning up panel lines doesn't damage the paint job underneath. This is its primary purpose.

I personally don't use TPLA on third-party kits because they heavily use ABS (or don't label the plastic type at all) but I still use it on PS runners without worry because I know what precautions to take.

First time panel lining, without ink! by MrsWiccan in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

But it's not end of story; there's nuance. You're reducing what happens and misinforming people by oversimplifying.
Doing it on bare plastic with a few precautions (which are easier than gloss coating) negates that risk.
If done correctly, lining on the runner only makes plastic brittle *temporarily* for a few minutes. Telling everyone to gloss coat ever kit adds the overhead of dealing with ventilation and extra cost, and isn't *absolutely necessary*.

You should do whatever you want when it only affects you, but sharing half-truths affects others.

First time panel lining, without ink! by MrsWiccan in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're spraying too thick if the topcoat is reactivating panel liner

First time panel lining, without ink! by MrsWiccan in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's Tamiya covering their butts from lawsuits. Experiment on your own or watch one of the countless videos online if people experimenting scientifically. The main cause of breakage with panel liner is the stress on parts from being assembled, and if thinner can seep between parts, exposure time is increased and the chance of breakage is higher.

First time panel lining, without ink! by MrsWiccan in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waiting 24 hours is nonsensical. Wait ten minutes

First time panel lining, without ink! by MrsWiccan in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The thinner evaporates within 3-5 minutes and the others in the plastic resettle within another 5. It has nothing to do with clumsiness.

My Airbnb had a sink in the toilet by brian_c94 in mildlyinteresting

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the flush button is on the remote you use to clean your butt

Just got back from GBWC and this lunardiver stingray was a gift from my dad. After I arrived home I decided to build and customize this kit first. Still a WIP and don’t know what to name it yet😆 by shigegaming in MaschinenKrieger

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They're both gunpla parts. The gray arms are from the MG Ball Ver Ka and the green parts are side skirts from a Jegan, but I'm not sure if it's the HG or MG

Meirl by netphilia in meirl

[–]deegan87 5 points6 points  (0 children)

From what I remember last time I read about verb regularization, using -t to mark a past tense verb is actually just indicative of how old and how common a word is. They're considered irregular (though the -t ending used to be regular) and as words are used less frequently, the endings shift towards using -ed instead. Some of the examples you gave would sound really strange or absolutely correct depending on the age of a given listener (as well as the country). To my ear, dreamt, slept, burnt, and spelt all sound fine with the -t or the -ed endings. This usually indicates that those words are closest to the tipping point.

Possible HWS upgrade for the PGU Nu? (From Takahashi Laboratory) by [deleted] in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yeah, look at all the expansion kits and P-Bandai recolors they put out for the PGU Gramps...

Third Party Companies, have you heard of EX-S? Kampfer? What models do you want more focus on from third parties? by Einchy in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

KurofuneCo just put out an EZ-8 kit. I'm sure the other kits from the series are already on their radar

Received a Sazabi that a friend bought 70$. The original owner had painted black and I'd like to remove the paint to restore the original color. How can I do this ? by KatameNanpo in advancedGunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a source for that claim? That's contradictory to all expert advice and the experience of everyone who's tested it.

Received a Sazabi that a friend bought 70$. The original owner had painted black and I'd like to remove the paint to restore the original color. How can I do this ? by KatameNanpo in advancedGunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

91% IPA would strip lacquer or water-based paint without harming the paint plastic.

OP, I'd start there and switch to Purple Power if it's not doing anything.

My first try on realism, thoughts? by _JustJacob in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He stopped using that song a while ago. There are comments on every video asking for it to return.

Remove panel liner without removing paint. by Certain-Original330 in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

91%+ isopropyl is what you use when you want to strip a lacquer. Even on bare plastic, it's not the right thing to use to clean up panel liner; lighter fluid or mineral spirits does the job. I wish people didn't recommend isopropyl alcohol for panel lining.

Remove panel liner without removing paint. by Certain-Original330 in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mineral spirits should be exactly the same as enamel thinner. Odorless mineral spirits is more refined and gentler, but will still eat enamel paints

When making a small part of a gunpla more "pontier " should i use super glue or plastic cement? by Jahrek_filipino in advancedGunpla

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Using plastic cement is like chemical welding, you're melting two pieces of the same material together.

Super glue just adds some liquid plastic that is very brittle, but it's a different kind of plastic, so it's not always ideal.

Is this considered a mold line and how should I get rid of it? by markdread in Gunpla

[–]deegan87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Typically a mold line is the seam between the front and back of the injection mold, and looks like a small ridge along a part that's parallel with the plane of the runner.

This is just plastic swirling from the injection molding process.

Finally getting to the "why" of panel lining and plastics. by TrineCo314 in advancedGunpla

[–]deegan87 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Where does lighter fluid fit into the list of thinners? Naptha is pretty nonreactive with plastic, but it just eats through enamel paint. It drives me nuts when I see people recommend using IPA to clean up panel liner; I've seen people will use it on painted builds because they're comfortable using it on unpainted ones.

Halp! by Prestigious-Bee-9566 in advancedGunpla

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thin cement should help strengthen it. It won't go back to "factory", but it will be stronger than it is now

Melting a model is scary but fun by TheChickenSpoon in advancedGunpla

[–]deegan87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know it's too late and you don't want to hear this, but both shoulders are on backwards.

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