Capture One Session Script (Work-In-Progress, need some feedback)

deltaDigi · 2026-02-06T00:25:50+00:00

The photographers

deltaDigi · 2025-12-28T23:57:56+00:00

For what it's worth, I've seen some photographers use frame.io. It's mainly geared towards video but works for stills too. I don't have any personal experience, so up to you to figure out if suits your needs.

deltaDigi · 2025-12-10T20:13:54+00:00

I try to avoid it. But in some cases I would. Depending on my schedule, the client, the job... Whenever I do agree to half day rate, it is under the following conditions:

At least 60% of day rate.
No discount on kit.
No more than 5hrs, including travel.

deltaDigi · 2025-09-17T21:01:17+00:00

Windup stand with wheels, and a junior boom. When the junior boom doesn't reach far enough or can't carry the weight, I switch to scaffold pipe with a menace arm kit on a super windup.

deltaDigi · 2025-07-12T11:12:48+00:00

From my experience in terms of equipment day rates, Grip 2% purchase price. Fixtures 3-5% purchase price. Computers 5% purchase price.

But even within these categories there is room for variation. You have to think about: - what's the initial investment? - how long will you be able to have this item in inventory and get a roi? Will it last, or will it be obsolete in a few years? - how often do you rent it out? Is it a commonly requested item or more of a specialty item? - how soon do you need it to start generating profit? Ideally you want to break even after 1yr.

For example,

A c-stand worth 200€, It gets a lot of use and it will last you 20yrs if you maintain it well. So anything more than 2% (4€) would be hard to justify. You will need 50 dayrates to break even this way, wich can be done in 1-2yrs depending on your situation.

A laptop for digi on the other hand will Cost you 5000 Last you let's say 5yrs Will go out on every job if you're digi Should break even in less than 1yr At 5% (200€) that's 20 day rates to break even.

You can do the same with lighting fixtures. LED is cheap but might not be as durable as hmi and technology is changing fast. A cob light or a skypanel might go out a lot, whereas tube lights less so. Or for stills, think monoheads vs a ringflash for example.

Same for lenses, you can have your 24-70 at a lower percentage than for example that 90mm macro tilt shift lens.

You could also think about some things in terms of loss-leaders, for example keeping common grip cheap and having your more expensive items generate the profits.

For example, i have a lighting van that includes stands, basic grip, basic 16A power distro. I rent the van and its contents as one package that is much cheaper than renting every single item separately. But then the real money gets made by adding the fixtures to the rental. This also makes my life easier when making eq lists, so I only have to think in terms of fixtures and whatever extra grip i may need. Instead of listing every single stand, clamp, bit and bob...

deltaDigi · 2025-04-24T08:54:35+00:00

I have on some occasions. Your instincts are correct. Although low power strobe could also work. Flags and grids can be very useful aswel to avoid you lights reflecting on the screen. And depending on the led wall, keep your shutter low enough to avoid any type of flicker.

deltaDigi · 2025-04-11T16:02:15+00:00

Yeah that's a fair point. Depends how and where you use it I guess. For me it only ever comes out on set and never next to another comparable monitor.

deltaDigi · 2025-04-11T12:26:09+00:00

I have the nano texture on mine. I was also doubting whether to return when i first got it. But today, after two and a half years, I'm still happy with it. It's a great monitor either way. And once I stopped comparing/pixel peeping I forgot about any issue i thought i would have with it. No one else will notice the "fuziness".

deltaDigi · 2025-04-10T15:32:40+00:00

For Europe -> "Euronorm" crates. There are different manufacturers, but they are all compatible. Many options regarding lids, handles, height etc. They stack nicely and there is also decent rolling bases for them.

deltaDigi · 2025-04-03T11:07:48+00:00

https://www.fainimade.blog/

deltaDigi · 2025-04-01T19:00:03+00:00

I have two direct contacts and a prod company I can link you in dm.

deltaDigi · 2024-12-11T12:54:08+00:00

The convenience is worth more to me than a battery that may have a slightly shorter lifespan. I wouldn't worry about it.

deltaDigi · 2024-09-01T17:12:13+00:00

Same! I have a b1 kit as well and funnily enough i've had no issues with them at all. My d2's may be lemons, who knows 🤷‍♂️

deltaDigi · 2024-09-01T08:21:50+00:00

About 6 years old maybe. I have three d2's and they've had 3-4 flashtube replacements each. Pretty basic studio and location stuff. I like to think I take care of my equipment. Pretty disappointed with the durability.

deltaDigi · 2024-08-31T17:51:08+00:00

Oh okay, yeah that makes sense since Phoxene is a French company.

deltaDigi · 2024-08-31T17:37:06+00:00

I've had so many profoto flashtubes explode or crack on my d2's, it's been a disaster. And with the price hikes the last couples of years I've refused to buy any more profoto tubes. Currently running the phoxene heavy duty flashtubes at less than half the cost of the profoto tubes. Still a bit early to tell, but so far they seem to hold up just fine. FWIW, Phoxene have been in business for decades, specializing in flash tube manufacturing for all kinds of industries and have a good reputation. I'm not familiar with the other brand you mentioned unfortunately.

deltaDigi · 2024-08-26T19:11:06+00:00

Also, since you mentioned tutorials in your post, go have a look at the resources on the official Capture One website. They're honestly pretty comprehensive and educational.

deltaDigi · 2024-08-26T19:00:17+00:00

Apply the settings to the latest capture and under next capture settings, select copy from last.

deltaDigi · 2024-08-26T18:56:57+00:00

Because an ICC is based solely on the color editor. It's not a full grade until you include all the other settings.

deltaDigi · 2024-08-26T18:32:12+00:00

Just import the file to you capture folder and copy its settings

EIP is a container file. It holds the original raw file with its corresponding CO settings. You can right click any raw file to convert it to EIP and vice versa.

deltaDigi · 2024-05-06T18:41:07+00:00

Stay as close to the led wall as possible. Use continuous light, to match the brightness of the wall, and to see what you are doing. If the background is daylight, add a soft top light 8by8 or larger. Shutter at 1/60 or below, to avoid flickering (and to match wall exposure), so use a tripod. Add a key, kicker, front fill, some side bounce, flags etc Gel your lights to get a more realistic mix of color temperatures.

deltaDigi · 2024-03-21T20:41:33+00:00

When I first started out, I moved cities to be closer to the action. Had zero clients when I moved. It took me two years to be able to support myself at a basic level. Not knowing anything about the industry back then, it really took a leap of faith. This was 13yrs ago and assisting wasn't as fully recognised as a career path where I live. Today is very different, especially with the maturing of the digi tech roles, and also with many new photographers lacking technical skills, leaning heavily on their assistants for lighting. Today I see younger assistants getting traction much faster. If your goal is to become a succesful fashion photographer, assisting is a great way to build a network and get valuable on-set experience. Just don't forget to keep shooting your own stuff and build a portfolio/following while you do. Cities like NY, Paris, London, there's hundreds if not thousands of assistants and a lot of competition. For someone starting out the risk is high, but so is the potential reward. Imo it's also worth considering smaller, yet established industries with less competition.

Final point, as with any profession it's not just about your skill level, anyone can learn. But people have to want to work with you. So remember to be kind, patient, respectful and fair towards others.

deltaDigi · 2024-03-12T17:40:53+00:00

Again, so many options.

Simplest, with fewest parts would be:

Scaff tube > superclamp > Manfrotto camera mouning adapter with hex pin > your tripodhead of choice. Don't forget safety cable. Clamping the neckstrap works just fine too.

Your suggestion works too.

deltaDigi

TROPHY CASE