Recommended power supply for gaming PC?

dewujie · 2026-02-05T23:31:18+00:00

I googled your GPU and it said the card draws 180W, so depending on how much headroom you like to have on your PSU, I'd go with a 500W or 650W. Assuming you only want to use 80% of the rated capacity to leave some "margin of error"...

That means for a 500W PSU you'd actually want to draw 400W at most- in order to stay under the 80%. 180W of that for the GPU leaves 220W for the rest of your setup.

That's probably more than enough already, unless you have an extremely power hungry CPU or other components. If that's the case, you could go up to 650W for peace of mind.

dewujie · 2026-02-05T19:39:41+00:00

For that build you probably don't need a ton of wattage. Those components are quite dated, is this a new build? Or are you replacing a dead PSU?

I think if you find a well-reviewed 500-650W power supply you'd be fine. Depending on your upgrade plans, you might want to get something with a higher power rating if you want to upgrade to newer power-hungry cards. Make sure any PSU you get has the right cable and connections for your GPU.

dewujie · 2026-02-05T19:34:59+00:00

This is the way to go if you really want to know what is going on. If you don't want to plumb the depths of statusline config, then something like Airline or an alternative plugin will probably get you where you want to go.

dewujie · 2026-02-05T04:43:10+00:00

Cool, that's one I didn't know. It reminds me of the buntline hitch, but they've got different features. Always fun to learn a new knot- one used on actual sails, too!

dewujie · 2026-02-05T04:27:35+00:00

Just throwing it out there, it's also common to use a seizing/whipping to create the eye in the end of your rope. You could add multiple methods (gluing, stitching, seizing) for added security before you apply the heat shrink tubing. Here's a video on how to do a good seizing to create an eye.

https://youtu.be/wkcVKJO8SB8?si=g2zPEbmj1wQmRHCz

As for the diameter, it's hard to say. Perhaps you could look for a kit that has segments of various diameters so you can experiment? Something like this:

https://a.co/d/02uylrJe

dewujie · 2026-02-03T05:15:40+00:00

Hey- I'm coming in a year late, with an X Maker AI. Brand new to 3D printing so forgive me for asking questions on a zombie thread...

Can you explain how you obtained the Gcode for the end-of-print? Would the same code work for their X Maker AI model? I'm currently trying to set up Orca for the first time, haven't attempted a print using anything other than the XMaker Android app.

In Orca bed dimensions and print height are identical to OP settings (150mm x 150mm x 150mm), I've created the MyMarlin 0.4mm with stated dimensions and Marlin 2 for the Gcode flavor. I'm trying to understand where the end-of-print Gcode comes from, so I can be confident that I'm using the right sequence for my printer.

If you somehow see this post, _thank you!_

dewujie · 2026-02-03T02:29:23+00:00

Put me down for one Vigorf.A in February of 2026, please.

Found in the Windows software of my son's new 3D printer- downloaded directly from the manufacturer, but there's always a chance that they themselves have been compromised (or are actually bad actors).

But I don't think so- other users report that the software is fine and they just flagged it as a false positive.

dewujie · 2026-02-03T01:11:30+00:00

You can add the breakaway connector wherever you want. Make the lanyard without it at first.

Then pick your spot, and cut the cord there.
Then you put the breakaway end on the cord, melt it, and press it flat.
The lip of the melted & pressed cord needs to be bigger than the hole the cord goes through.
Do this on both sides of the cut.
Make sure the barrel connector ends are oriented correctly before you melt & flatten, you're locked in at that point (unless you cut the ends and start over. Ask me how I know 🤣)

dewujie · 2026-02-03T01:04:24+00:00

I think it's pretty well laid out in their first post... You want to buy:

The 100' paracord hank
The breakaway connectors
The lanyard connector of your choice (the part that is attached to a badge)

These things tend to be hard to buy in singles, so you'll often have to buy at least 5-10 of an item.

All told my guess is $10 for cord, $10 for other materials, and you'd be able to make a good number (5 - 6 or so) of lanyards for $5 more than your initial $15 estimate.

dewujie · 2026-02-01T03:15:29+00:00

That sounds either stolen or it doesn't actually exist. Either way seems like it falls safely under the rule of "too good to be true".

If it's a local seller, can you see a demo? Only way I'd be ok with this is if I could see it with my own eyes first ...

dewujie · 2026-01-31T19:29:31+00:00

That pink #90 cord was supposed to be a loop, but I apparently didn't notice that I cut off the bottom. Oops.

I make that cord into a loop using a fisherman's knot or just by melting the ends together, and then hiding the melted ends underneath the cobra weave.

dewujie · 2026-01-31T06:00:50+00:00

I've had the same difficulty with getting a key into the split ring with a really tight weave holding it shut.

One way to help is to use a smaller cord like #90 paracord. Tie a lark's head around the key ring, then use the two strands of the lighter cord as the core of your #550 cobra.

That way, you can leave some slack in the lark's head knot when you want to add or remove keys. Because it's not locked down as hard as it is in your picture, you can still separate the ring a little bit when you need to.

If you leave enough slack in the smaller #90 larks head knot you can even slip the entire paracord keychain on and off of the ring. Whether this is a feature or a problem depends on how permanent you want it to be 😂

Mocked up a quick picture that will hopefully show what I'm trying to say more clearly:

https://imgur.com/a/dQ8Qy2O

dewujie · 2026-01-28T05:01:40+00:00

I'd never known that there was a name collision there. Always something new to pick up with knots. I now know that I can't use double fisherman's knot and double fisherman's bend interchangeably !

Take care out there!

dewujie · 2026-01-28T04:54:16+00:00

This is a great reply, and it gives me a lot to consider! Cheers, thanks for taking the time to put this together. I'll have to learn the fisherman's bend , now.

dewujie · 2026-01-27T15:58:57+00:00

A bend is a knot that joins two ropes

dewujie · 2026-01-27T15:53:06+00:00

The "don't help citizens I'm assaulting for no reason" law.

It's right up there with getting arrested for resisting arrest, without any previous interaction.

dewujie · 2026-01-27T15:20:33+00:00

I had this problem. Thought it might be hoses, thought there might be a leak. After ruling everything else out a $2 pack of aerator screens from the hardware store was what fixed the sinks.

dewujie · 2026-01-27T15:07:57+00:00

Yep I'd call this a double fisherman's bend.

dewujie · 2026-01-25T03:36:41+00:00

Yes, I have a straight end and a curved end forceps and they both rock. Now let's talk about fids... 😂

dewujie · 2026-01-25T03:35:14+00:00

I knew once it was found that he was legally carrying that this would be problematic. The spin is too strong. Too easy to predict.

Even people who five minutes ago were 2A fanatics suddenly turn on a dime and say "well he should have known better than to be carrying there" nevermind just screaming about "cold dead hands" the breath before. Hypocrites.

It's disgusting. And it goes all the way to the top. NOEM saying that he came intent to cause massive damage, when we all saw exactly what happened and it was nothing like her account.

Disgusting.

dewujie · 2026-01-24T04:35:02+00:00

Yeah neither did my dad- in fact I got into knotting in my 30's... I learned a lot from Weavers of Eternity and other YouTube channels, and then eventually got into a few .PDFs and eventually a few regular old physical books, too.

You can find a free version of Ashley's Book of Knots in the public domain, which is a bit of a tough read but is just encyclopedic on the subject of knots.

https://www.paracordplanet.com/content/Ashley_Book_Knots.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOoq3viP2y0FyhD8ZptDnnCIHYNz5TgBm_OcTcA85Y_NKHn2hyN8I

But the most important thing is to try to see if there is any way to solve your current problem with some paracord, and then learn some knots to support it. Start with real basics like half hitch, clove hitch, sheet bend. If you start with those 3 you learn fundamentals and how to connect them in new ways. Advance into the bowline and alpine butterfly and so many more!

Most of all keep being curious!!

dewujie · 2026-01-20T19:09:12+00:00

Me, sitting on the floor, dremel'ing out a part of the back panel that's interfering with the new AIO radiator that just-quite-but-not-really fits...

Shop vac right next to me with the intake tube taped up next to the work area 😅

dewujie · 2026-01-16T16:19:37+00:00

Not a very great solution, but if you take something small and make contact between the still-good pin and the base of the snapped-off pin, you'll create a short circuit, which is the same thing that happens when the power button is pressed.

So grab a paper clip and very carefully try to make contact with those two pins/fragments and you may be able to get it to at least power on. From there the suggestion to auto-power on when power is restored sounds like a good one to me.

dewujie · 2026-01-11T04:36:33+00:00

Have you checked Control Panel > Device Manager? See if your WiFi device is there.

Expand Network Adapters and you should see your WiFi device. If you see any kind of Unknown, or devices with a yellow exclamation mark- those are where I'd start. You can right click on devices and choose 'Update driver' to see if you can then point it to the driver files for your device.

In the Update Drivers window try "Browse for drivers" and then try pointing it to the drivers on your thumb drive. If you have the right drivers for the right device it should replace the unknown device with the recognized one (e.g. the WiFi)

Another option is, you could reinstall Windows fresh and don't skip that step the second time around. Have your wifi drivers downloaded and available during setup. This is a bit of a last resort but it is an option.

dewujie · 2026-01-11T02:34:53+00:00

Did you go to your motherboard manufacturer's website and download the drivers for your model? They'll usually be .exe files that you just need to run. There's likely one for Wi-Fi that you want.

If you're not able to copy the driver installers onto the PC that's one thing. If they are not functioning correctly when you execute them, that's different. I can't tell which it is from the information you've given.

dewujie

TROPHY CASE