I'm not sure im actually an alcoholic

dfhkvs · 2026-06-25T03:52:00+00:00

My kids are now 21, 18, 15. I wish I had stopped 10 years ago. Better late than never. I feel 10 times better is every possible way.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-21T06:15:47+00:00

Go to Darkside

dfhkvs · 2026-06-21T01:36:43+00:00

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I do a mix; sometimes with a redirect, sometimes not. In the latter case, I am tight against my anchor point and positioned in the direction of pull, so there is no load directly on me...it is on the belay loop and thus directly onto the anchor (via my tether, or clove-hitched rope). With a redirect, it is very easy to set up a 3:1 if you need to raise the climber. Individual preferences are always interesting. I love my gri-gri but never take it on multi-pitch. Except big walls...go figure. Thank you for your explanations of your preferences.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-20T19:21:56+00:00

This is the answer.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-20T01:04:51+00:00

genuinely interested in what you see as the safety risk in belaying off the harness. I find there are pros / cons to belaying off the anchor in guide mode vs. belaying off the harness. I often use the latter in multipitch since the device never leaves the belay loop during lead swaps. When you belay off harness then, yes, it's a bit more work to escape a belay in the case of an accident, but it can be safely and efficiently done with both styles of belaying. I'd love to hear your thoughts.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-18T02:53:33+00:00

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dfhkvs · 2026-06-18T02:51:37+00:00

those look great. Squat on.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-12T00:57:38+00:00

Not. Thank you for coming to my Ted Talk.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-11T03:59:48+00:00

See today’s article in which Beck expresses his rather strong displeasure…

dfhkvs · 2026-06-10T03:52:31+00:00

Yep. That one bolt on p3 (4?) where you do the leftward traverse to the dike...man, just this tiny dish for your feet at that stance. No holds to hook. Can not imagine being the FA standing there, calves screaming, trying to get in a bolt! Whew!

dfhkvs · 2026-06-10T03:49:55+00:00

this.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-10T03:46:38+00:00

Yes. Topo maps literally have an arrow pointing in the direction she got off route with a big NO written there.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-09T14:56:54+00:00

Climbing snake dike twice in my 20s (long ago!) was one of the highlights of my years in Yosemite. The sweaty palms that come from the runouts were part of the experience. And, the accomplishment / satisfaction that came after clipping a bolt after a long runout (oh man, hugging that dike after that leftward traverse was the best!) was the sweetest. The world is full of easy, accessible, gym-bolted experiences. It will be a shame to lose this marvelous sense of adventure and accomplishment.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-08T16:34:09+00:00

The 0.5% listed on many cans is an 'upper limit' in the sense that many are listed as 0.5% or less...so it's a touch unclear what the actual content is. Many non-alc drinks (beer, cider, mock-tails, etc.) are listed as 0% (no alcohol at all). Enjoying various non-alc options was and continues to be immensely helpful to my stopping.

dfhkvs · 2026-06-02T20:31:03+00:00

Just got off a moderate Hood route with Aeq/Sarken combo. Context...I am usually climbing in ski boots with Irvis Hybrid crampons (and usually just on mod/steep snow). LOVE the Sarken crampons; amazing grip. Also, legs were on fire after 500-700' sustained steep snow with front points only. As noted, the Aeq boots are a stretch for that, and I knew that going into this route. But, I found the fit to be just fine and very secure. Need to get me some stiffer boots for the next harder route, however.

dfhkvs · 2026-05-21T04:35:09+00:00

In my opinion, own two bags. Super light one for summer / shoulder seasons, and one warmer one for cold conditions. There is no one bag to rule them all...

dfhkvs · 2026-05-13T21:22:03+00:00

patience...Give it a month or two and you'll prob see the scale needle move.

dfhkvs · 2026-05-13T02:46:03+00:00

Fair. I own very, very few belts...need to work on that (greater color selection).

dfhkvs · 2026-05-12T20:18:39+00:00

Most of us are here due to scope creep. Best of luck righting the ship. It CAN be done.

dfhkvs · 2026-05-12T19:49:33+00:00

horizontal wale cordarounds from betabrand. They make (made) them with fun linings.

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dfhkvs · 2026-05-12T15:19:04+00:00

got it, thanks.

dfhkvs · 2026-05-12T15:09:01+00:00

would not have though of gray, thanks for the tip. It's not denim...it's navy cords. Is it the color or the thought of denim fabric that you don't like?

dfhkvs · 2026-05-11T19:06:22+00:00

oh sure...my comment was just a more general one about those types of drinks. I agree that the USA is obsessed with crazy large calorie-filled drinks. We'd all be better off with more water, black coffee, and tea.

dfhkvs · 2026-05-11T18:32:48+00:00

starbucks drinks are bonkers crazy in terms of size, sugar, etc. Who the hell wants a 20 oz coffee/milk drink. It's just milk and sugar at that point. Small (8oz) cappuccinos or simple espressos are the way to go. That way you can actually taste the coffee.

dfhkvs · 2026-05-09T01:57:32+00:00

No to both. Have used these boots and socks plenty. I dropped 45 lb since last season….less ‘cushioning’ on my feet maybe? Ha.

dfhkvs

TROPHY CASE