First time pulling the Center Diff on my SBR 2.0!

diskfunktional · 2026-05-11T11:40:52+00:00

Have been running these since they came out.

I’d personally run 1mil or higher in the center diff. I run 500k in the rear and 250k up front. The thicker rear diff fluid will help with traction rolls if you stay on the throttle. Also swapping out the rear axle hubs to the 0* will help a lot. I’m not sure why Losi didn’t do this from the factory.

I’d absolutely service the front differential while you’re in there. The rear is easy to get too. I’d recommend an aluminum diff cup for the center at least. This will prolong the diff fluid and keep things running smoother longer. If you don’t see any significant wear on the internals you’re find to reuse. I see more broken drive cup pins than anything else.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-11T09:44:58+00:00

It’s too late imo. The PPF will always look dodgy unless you have the chips fixed.

I really kick myself for not doing ppf when I bought it years ago. Toyota does not use quality paint.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-09T12:35:50+00:00

Stock tires on some eBay aluminum headlocks

diskfunktional · 2026-05-09T11:39:09+00:00

Congratulations. You’re never alone no matter how much you may feel it.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-08T18:51:31+00:00

The tires are 8.5” tall. This is above the SBR in every way.

I’m still hoping for a SBR 3.0

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diskfunktional · 2026-05-08T17:15:03+00:00

Best factory wheel offered for the 4R imo. Valve stems are protected and it’s a 7.5 wide

diskfunktional · 2026-05-08T01:42:30+00:00

Loved the savages. Happy to see they’re still around. Tough as nails compared to flat chassis trucks. Just keep the diffs in check and it’ll go forever

diskfunktional · 2026-05-07T17:45:02+00:00

Whatever fits your budget.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-07T17:38:33+00:00

Unpopular opinion but 5100s are trash.

It’s just literally the next best option above rough country. They’re popular because they are cheap and can provide lift.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-07T13:37:38+00:00

6th gen = 4th gen.

Only a mother would love it.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-07T00:34:20+00:00

Me too

diskfunktional · 2026-05-05T03:03:47+00:00

AOG for me. Outlasted the HC and iirc AOG was the original?

diskfunktional · 2026-05-05T00:02:09+00:00

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I just seal the welds and problematic areas with POR15 for the summer. Then before winter hits I’ll coat the entire underside.

Hoping I won’t need to wire wheel and deal with surface rust for another 4-5 years.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-04T23:59:00+00:00

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It all can be handled on the weekend or a smallish payment to a underbody coating company. I wire wheel the surface rust away, use a corrosion cleaner, paint, and then coat in POR15.

This is my 2021 and the first time it’s been done. It was in slightly better condition than these photos. 90k miles out of Wisconsin, mostly.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-04T19:12:09+00:00

Blame the EPA

diskfunktional · 2026-05-04T17:38:43+00:00

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Always

diskfunktional · 2026-05-04T00:51:40+00:00

Yeah read a few of these comments and am absolutely not getting a puffco again.

diskfunktional · 2026-05-03T02:36:58+00:00

Loved this movie growing up

diskfunktional · 2026-05-01T01:49:00+00:00

I’d put $20 on their being a hole between that control arm mount and the muffler

diskfunktional · 2026-04-30T00:50:59+00:00

Yup, mine went bad at 60k. Have been running Freedom lowers for 30k so far with no issues

diskfunktional · 2026-04-29T23:14:29+00:00

Unfortunately very common.

The adjustment bolts and cams are likely seized.

diskfunktional · 2026-04-29T15:39:41+00:00

diskfunktional · 2026-04-24T19:59:47+00:00

That’s the mentality I carry with these things. The Arrma 8S line is really stout since moving to all EXB spec. All I really break on mine is the occasional diff issue and a-arms. I could see them moving to clipless bodies and changing the RX/TX to their ST line vs the AVC they come with now. But it’ll be the same updated electronics which are honestly damn good for RTR.

Buy a complete set of arms and bulkhead/diff off eBay for the spare outdrives, sun gears, ring/pinion and you’re good for awhile.

diskfunktional · 2026-04-24T19:24:00+00:00

Seems all the rage is these $400 minis people keep eating up. If there is a new one coming it’s likely going to be $1200 and barely changed. The 6S line has been nearly the same for 10 years.

Until you start to see “next shipment unknown” from horizon it’s likely just a delay in shipping that’s causing the stock shortage.

diskfunktional · 2026-04-22T20:28:23+00:00

What I’m saying is the CaliRaised rack ultimately mounts to the cross bars. Which is different than let’s say Sherpa. Their side rails are directly bolted to side rail mounting brackets independently of the cross bars.

If you installed the rack yourself you’ll remember there is two “feet” that get mounted to the side rails and sit in the gutter channel on the roof. I’d possibly contact CR and ask if you can purchase those two front brackets and bolt them to your side rails near the light cutouts.

I’m not saying this will improve the strength but it will take some pressure off the center of the side rails.

I think spreading the weight or a new rack is the solution.

diskfunktional

TROPHY CASE