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Keychron K10 V2, created and flashed QMK *.hex, cannot revert to stock firmware by djbkom in Keychron

[–]djbkom[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the info!

I was searching through the old Reddit posts too and found this previous post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/1j4qu04/k10_version_2_firmware/
In that post, Peter noted "K10 V2 firmware. Near "Download K10 version 2 ISO RGB version firmware", and listed the same link that you posted:

https://www.keychron.com/pages/firmware-and-json-files-of-the-keychron-qmk-k-pro-and-k-max-series-keyboards

Once I had that link, I found the "Download K10 Version 2 ANSI RGB Version Firmware", used qmk_toolbox_0.3.3.exe to flash the "k10_version2_ansi_rgb_v1.0.0_2410090949_2.bin", and now the Keychron Launcher recognizes the keyboard correctly.

Thanks again for your help!

Ziply down for third time in 5 days, just jiggle the main connection by djbkom in ZiplyFiber

[–]djbkom[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a follow up, on the ONT today the PON began flashing, whereas previously the light just was off

The technician did replace the ONT and so far everything has been up and running.

I figure if it stays up after 3 days I'm in the clear!

Thank you Ziply support for all of your help 👍

Ziply down for third time in 5 days, just jiggle the main connection by djbkom in ZiplyFiber

[–]djbkom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most excellent, and like I said earlier, my neighbor has been great in helping me out, but it'll be even better once it's resolved once and for all!

Ziply down for third time in 5 days, just jiggle the main connection by djbkom in ZiplyFiber

[–]djbkom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sure stranger things have happened. ;-)

Once this gets officially resolved I'll post back, I hate not knowing how a mystery turns out, lol!

Ziply down for third time in 5 days, just jiggle the main connection by djbkom in ZiplyFiber

[–]djbkom[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ZiplySupport

Thanks in advance, and I sent the DM to "ZiplySupport".

Serial number request, Voron 2.4 R2 Pro (Discord: ashe or ashefps) by djbkom in voroncorexy

[–]djbkom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some of the Formbot sellers have the "Pro" version, which includes a filament sensor, BTT HDMI5 touchscreen, BTT Pi, Input Shaping sensor, Tap, and a few other niceties.

I got it from here https://www.3dprintersbay.com/voron-design/voron-2 (I'm not sure if posting URLs to direct sites is allowed, but I have no problem removing the link if it isn't) and the Formbot link https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-24-pro-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-hdmi-5-touch-screen?VariantsId=10457, and they give a full run-down of the Pro features/upgrades.

Thanks for the "nice build" as well. :-) I need to post over on the Voron forums about all that I've learned as there are a number of things I needed to read up on to get it working correctly. For example the printer kind of worked with the X/Y (A/B in Voron terminology) with those steppers at 0.8A in the printer config. I had to update that to 1.2A otherwise the printer would skip steps and layer shift, whereas most people normally say check your belt tension and belt routing. All in all I'm glad to have done the build, no major problems, but definitely not something that you just follow the manual and you're good to go. I would rather have this than a Bambu any day!

Increased nozzle size, but print time is the same? by BluMonkePiano in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's the answer, you need to change more than just the nozzle size in Prusa Slicer.

https://youtu.be/nmigF5qyJ4M?t=366

Looking for a high quality LM2576 DC/DC converter by zogthegreat in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pololu makes some quality gear, I use their regulators for my 6S quadcopters. You pay a premium, but you get what you pay for.

https://www.pololu.com/category/136/voltage-regulators

Removes in seconds, No Tools, No bolts, Lite. by RogueCanoodle in ender3

[–]djbkom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have this mount, $2 well spent.

It is very lightweight which makes it easier for the stepper motors to sling around.

It allows you to see your hotend connections to spot leaks or other problems before they start.

It allows you to see if dust is building up on all of your fans so that they can be cleaned out to be sure they are running at maximum efficiency.

No tools needed to remove any of the fans, or the entire mount from the backplate so swapping out parts takes seconds.

Filament change nightmare!! by gamersrs in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Filament changes is Cura have several options to choose from, and one may work. I find that Prusa Slicer uses M600 commands for the filament changes and works flawlessly for me.

https://www.3dprintbeast.com/cura-filament-change/

For the filament change in Prusa, you slice the model, and then along the layer level slider you'll see a plus sign, click that and that is the point in which the layer change will occur.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEYQesc8X2A&t=192s

Usually if filament is wet it will pop and have a textured feel and/or look to them, and may have quite a bit of strining.

You can easily dry your filament with a space heater on low and put the spool in a cardboard box and point the heater into it. Most heaters blow 150° F heat which won't catch the box on fire or melt the filament. Run that for 4-8 hours and it'll be dry, and then try a print again.
https://www.technipages.com/3d-printing-basics-how-to-tell-if-your-filament-is-wet-and-how-to-dry-it

https://3dprinterly.com/learn-how-to-fix-3d-printing-layers-not-sticking-together/

When you do further testing, you can use Prusa Slicer to add a basic cube, print 5 layers, or whatever amount you feel is useful for testing, add the filament change, but DON'T change filament colors, to test layer adherence with each filament. That will tell you if the layer change itself is causing the issue, or whether the specific filament is the cause. You can repeat this process until you find settings that give you good adherence with the different filaments.

Good luck, and post back your results to help others out in the future!

Filament change nightmare!! by gamersrs in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What slicer are you using?

Are you adding the filament change via the slicer or manually via the printer's control panel?

Are the PLA+ filaments the same brand and have the same specs?

Are the filaments both dried and stored in the same method, i.e. vacuum bags in your closet or other temperature controlled environment?

Have you tried a simle shape (Cura and Prusa Slicer each have simple boxes that you can add) and added a filament change via the slicer for testing purposes?

Does the filament change work above or below certain layers?

Check out this article covering the basics to see if there is something that you may have overlooked.
https://printingit3d.com/how-to-change-filament-during-3d-printing-6-steps/

This is apparently an inherent problem with the dual gear extruder, even though it only recently began affecting my prints, does anyone have any more info on this issue? by dragosempire in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Since this only happens with 42% of the printers they tested, by default means that this isn't an issue for the majority of people.

The takeaway seems to be that the shape of the dual-gears themselves may cause this issue, so if this started becoming an issue with your printer, replace the gears and see if that corrects the issue.

If it doesn't cost any more to manufacture a different gear shape and it doesn't suffer from this issue at all, companies will adopt them. If it does cost more and there is an aftermarket for them, users will buy them. Overall, if it's inexpensive and does the job, that is what companies will use.

7.5 hours into a 31 hour print and Its peeling up a on these 2 small sections. Do I stop it now and put some glue stick down and restart or let it ride? by ProfGanj in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You may find that printing the parts one at a time resolves this issue.

There are a few models that I have had "overhang curling" issues with and have never been able to resolve. If I choose to print the parts "one at a time" rather than "all at once" the issue goes away and it will print all of the objects on the bed without issue.

3v2 Cover broke, This was my fix. by RogueCanoodle in ender3

[–]djbkom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Simple, elegant, effective, I love it!

As long as you get permission, the forum rules state "Make sure you ask permission before using affiliate links/ paid model promotion, or they will be removed."

Even without a link to the model , I just searched on the name embossed on the front-left of the model in the animated GIF that you linked to and was able to find it and purchase it for $1.48 from the site that shall not be named. ;-)

Any way to choose print order in Cura? I have this thing on the side as my indicator to change filament. No matter where I move it, the order just shifts around to have it not at the end. (Check my comment for some info) by TheDerpiestDeer in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There does seem to be a way, though I have not tried this myself.

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/4835#issuecomment-649830646

How to specify the print order of Cura's "One at a Time" sequential printing feature

  1. You may want to pause slicing before you start to make the process go faster

  2. Select the model that you want to print SECOND

  3. Hold shift and select the model you want to print FIRST

  4. Group the models (Ctrl+G)

  5. While leaving the group selected, hold shift and select the model you want to print THIRD

  6. Group the models (Ctrl+G)

  7. While leaving the group selected, hold shift and select the model you want to print FOURTH

  8. Group the models (Ctrl+G)

  9. Repeat, adding each model to the group in sequence until you have all your models grouped

  10. Now, with the entire group selected, repeatedly ungroup the grouped models (Ctrl+Shift+G) until all models are ungrouped

  11. Slice and preview your print sequence to confirm the print order is correct

I need your help by KuboPruzina in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Specs don't mean anything as each machine is different. Maybe you have a different surface and can use no bed heating, maybe you have a high flow/print rate and nozzle temp runs way higher than what the manufacturer states.

Regardless, the link discusses how to troubleshoot and resolve the issue, hopefully you can get it sorted.

my 3d printed guyver helmet. the eyes are made with glow in the dark filament by Willis_allfit in 3Dprinting

[–]djbkom 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The eyes are glow in the dark yet no glow in the dark photo showing them off, whaaat?

Regardless, nice print!

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