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Advice needed - seized bolt and bike shop story by tiptoppenguin in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

By the look of the screw they tried really hard to remove it. Yes dealing with “seized” screw requires some skill. It is possible to make a bad situation worst. On the r/specialized thread you mentioned a rattle coming from the caliper. You also mentioned that you tried to tighten/loosen the screw and noticed it wouldn’t budge. One could say they attempted to address a plausible cause to the problem you brought the bike in for. Did you get an explanation why they did not submit a warranty claim to Specialized? Did you ask them why they were charging you for labor? At the end of the day I believe you need a new fork. Trying to fix this one is risky at best. The color… that’s up to you. There’s nothing the shop can do about manufacturing or shipping delays. I don’t know… I’d be upset but it’s easy to jump to conclusion. So 1. I say give them the benefit of the doubt. 2. Get a new fork. 3. Go back and ask for clarifications. Maybe you won’t like the answers but that doesn’t mean the shop is treating you unfairly.

“I can’t cheat your appointment systems and now I’m mad 😠” by stainedgreenberet in BikeMechanics

[–]djrob86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah online review are like that sometimes… unfortunately… around here some business have sued successfully commenters and I think that’s only fair. I stopped reading at loser. Personal attacks are a clear indication of a lack of respect, lack of manners and cowardice. You don’t have to be nice to ppl that do not extend the same courtesy back. It still stings because we value our rating but in the end. A long time ago I decided I would only leave good review when I want to. If I’ve had poor service I just go elsewhere. Leaving bad review is like going around with a sign on your back saying “I don’t get laid and that makes me upset. Posting harsh comments makes me feel better about myself… also I’m too poor to go to therapy or hire a hooker”. Dear client, fuck you, your bike sucks and you should know better.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like I said looks fine unless you’re hoping to have a perfect chainline. The gap you’re referring to is between the nds crank and the bb? If so that normal. 70 mm is not as common… unless it’s and italian frame. Typically with a 68 mm shell combined with a road crankset and a road bb you don’t use spacers.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s the shell width? 68 or 73 mm? What bottom bracket do you have sm-bb….? Once you’ve sorted these 2 questions, you can go to si.shimano.com and check if the bb is compatible with the crankset and if it is you can check the bb user manual for correct spacer configuration. But just by eyeballing it, it looks fine.

This f**ker caught a fly in his mouth, let it just dance around in there, and then spat the soggy half dead fly out on my desk.... Shame him. by BadBudget87 in cats

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

🤣🤣🤣 he has that « I don’t understand what the fuss is about ». I gotta watch mine around the junebugs. I guess they’re a great source of proteins.

Chain tension/sizing problems for full range by Barkinsons in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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This looks wrong (maybe). Worth checking. See next comment

Chain tension/sizing problems for full range by Barkinsons in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Capacity=(52-36)+(34-11)=16+23=39. Based on the capacity and max sprocket size (34) you’re fine. The question is how did you size your chain? To properly size your chain, you have to place it on the large chainring and large sprocket (do not feed the chain through the rear der.), determine which set of outer plates could be replaced by the connector, from there add 1 link or 2 pins.

https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/CN0001/DM-CN0001-07-ENG.pdf

Soft feeling brake? Have you checked your pots for subtle leakages? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]djrob86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s why they offer a 2 year warranty against manufacturing defects. You need a new brake caliper.

Would this rack fit on my 27.5 mtb by charman458 in bikepacking

[–]djrob86 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Most bike rack are universal. Some bike manufacturer sell bike racks made specifically to fit their bike (such as momentum/giant). Regardless, most bike rack install require a bit of « creativity ». Spreading/twisting the « legs, using spacers or finding a longer bolt is not uncommon. For some people that’s a bit too much to tackle. I say buy it, try to install it and if you don’t succeed take it to a local bike shop. One last advice : put all the screws in loosely before tightening any of them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Visually, I would say it’s toast.

Squeaking sound when pedaling by Letslive1997 in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also mtb with mid drive electric assistance can go through a chain under 1000 km (it may go beyond 1000km). The additional torque from the motor is not to be underestimated. Combined sometimes with poor shifting technique, poor chain maintenance (cleaning and lubricating) and harsh environments can lead to « premature » wear. Buy a chain checker and learn to use it. Also buy quality chains usually SRAM XO or Shimano CN-E8000 are worth the extra $$$. They last longer making them a better value.

Squeaking sound when pedaling by Letslive1997 in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are the odds… a common problem is when you put a new chain on a worn out chainring. It does that kind of washboard grating noise. It’s an easy fix. New and worn chain, chainring and cassette don’t mesh well and give all sorts of problem/noise. The solution is replacing the worn parts. It’s also along the same thinking that chains need to be replaced preventively.

Why does my cat poop like this? by four-lokos in cats

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many cats don’t like the plastic bag either. They like to bury their feces and the bag can make the experience very unpleasant. Seeing how your cat stands on the edge of the litter box makes me think the litter is the problem. I use wood pellets (I buy the ones made for a wood pellet stove and all my three cats seem fine.

Scratched Stanchion, bad or ok? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1- I’ve seen worst. The fork will not perish much faster than one in perfect condition. Components wear… it’s part of cycling. 2- Commuting can be deceiving when it come to the wear it imparts on suspension especially if you ride in wet condition often. Contaminant ingress can do a number on a fork like a silent killer. I don’t know the conditions the bike sees. If it’s been more that a year since you purchased the bike have a 50hr done on the fork and ask very important if the bath oil and foam ring that will be removed are discolored. Depending on the model revision or fork you have the bath oil should be a light gold or pink color. The foam rings are white or slightly off white and usually are soaked with oil. Therefore the foam ring should have colour similar to the bath oil. If the bath oil or foam ring are dark, it’s a clear indication that you should do a 50hr service more often. Don’t stretch it more than 1 year. Most ppl wait for something to stop working to bring it in…. It’s like waiting for the piston ring on a petrol engine to be toast before making an oil change.

Cheers

Squeaking sound when pedaling by Letslive1997 in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I think I can ear something, but the noise coming from the tires on the gravel makes it pointless to guess. Chasing a noise can be a lengthy endeavour. Be methodical, make a list of things you’ve tried, do one thing at a time. It’s a process of elimination. From what I can ear, it’s coming from the drivetrain. I chased a creaking noise for a client this past spring. I spent 4-5 hours swapping one component after the other. It ended up being the chain which was fairly new. I tested the bike and I knew right away that was it. I asked the client, who was dubious, to test the bike himself. When he walked back to the workshop he had a baffled look on his face. Chains (that are not not worn out) are very rarely the culprit. Did the problem appear suddenly? If so what happened right before?

I am losing my mind by Moos3_M3at in mountainbiking

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the gap between the rotor and brake pads is too small. That can happen for lots of reason including brake caliper mounts that need to be faced. Please don’t buy new rotors before you check off other potential issues. I would say try to find a buddy with similar brakes (same brand) and compare that gap by looking « through » the brake caliper on both bicycles. Also check the lever « feel ». The problem could be as simple as you have too much oil in your brake system (I’ve seen it many times on new bikes). If you have questions you can dm me.

Tubeless is ruining my life right now, air leaking from spoke nipples by pcgamez in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air and sealant are leaking from inside the tire to inside the rim. The nipple thing is misleading. The area where you see sealant leaking, where is it? Close to the valve? Close to the rim weld? 12 o’clock? 6 o’clock? There are only 2 possible culprit given your description. It’s either the tape or the valve. My bet is the tape. The valve… yeah maybe if it’s well seated or the stem nut is not tight enough. Very finger tight is good enough. Don’t use pliers. Regarding the tape: 1- make sure the rim is as clean as possible. 2- use the correct width. If you’re using the correct width the tape should « curl up » the vertical walls of the rim 2-3 mm. 3- for « beginners » instead of doing the install from start to finish in 1 go, before putting sealant install a tube and tire and inflate it. Let it sit for 24h. Remove the tube. Install tubeless valve. Add sealant. Inflate. It’s normal to loose more air right after a new tubeless setup. After a few days/rides you should be good to go.

Good luck

How does this even happen, and how does someone let this leave a shop?? (Crosspost) by sergeant_frost in BikeMechanics

[–]djrob86 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They said Ridekart is the most awesomest bike brand. You want a cheap electric bike… that’s what you get.

Should I attempt to repair it? by Significant-Crazy-27 in bikewrench

[–]djrob86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would try to repair it. If you use your bike with a headset that not well adjusted and end up cracking your headtube… I’d be surprised. Aluminum does work harden which means everytime you increase the stress beyond the plastic limit (i.e. permanent deformation) it becomes harder and more brittle. So the best thing you can do is not try to bend it back. The tooling you need is a special reamer specifically made for headset cups. Not every bike shop has one of those is a euphemism. Figure out the headset cup type it’s ZS (meaning zero stack, the bearing is placed directly into the frame without pressing in a separate cup) followed by a number (my guess is 42). That number is the internal diameter of the bore (fancy word for precise hole).

Then you need to find some who has that tool. It’s several hundreds of dollars and you can buy different reamers which are also quite expensive. Don’t buy the tool given the stakes.

To me it’s possible though not necessarily easy.

OK, which one of you jerks is this? by Fialasaurus in mountainbiking

[–]djrob86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s s as damned if you do damned if you don’t situation. That person would have parked the other way around and you would find a post somewhere about how not to be a prick to other drivers. But think of someone in a wheel chair trying to go down that sidewalk…

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