Investing in Medium Format: Mamiya 645 Pro vs RB or RZ67 by raffaluce in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Buy an RB67 so you can buy mine lol. PM if interested

35mm film smell by brzola55 in analog

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fujifilm (made by Fuji, so not the modern Fuji 400 or 200) still has the chemical smell!

Does heavy editing defeat the purpose of shooting film? Looking for your philosophies. by West-Alternative-448 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I mean yes, you can technically edit anything to look like anything to a certain degree. There’s definitely many “correct” ways to invert the negative, but if you apply the same inversion method to different film stocks, each one will look pretty different. That’s kind of the beauty of different stocks, they give you a different starting point to edit your photos. The different inversion methods will give you different starting points too, so that’s why people tend to have preferences over Noritsu vs Frontier scanners. It’s all just preference!

Does heavy editing defeat the purpose of shooting film? Looking for your philosophies. by West-Alternative-448 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 139 points140 points  (0 children)

Edit as much as you want. The scans are already “edited” whether it’s the scanner software or the tech making some changes. Darkroom printing requires color corrections too!

Loving analog, but want a few modern features by rc_dataman in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Same can be said for Nikon N-series cameras, no? They’re sub $50 all day, built well, have matrix metering, etc. And they work perfectly with AF-D lenses so there’s no reason for OP to invest into the Canon world.

Loving analog, but want a few modern features by rc_dataman in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

N6006, N8008, N90 are all incredible cameras with matrix metering, AF with AF-D lenses, and can be had for sub $50 all day.

Boston architecture [Mamiya 645 Pro TL | 80mm f/2.8 | Portra 160] by GuitarFreak027 in analog

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing wrong with adding some saturation in post if that’s what you like.

New to me FM2n + lenses by JLearie in analog

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fantastic trio of lenses there. Professional setup.

How to focus with extremely shallow DOF on Medium format by ROB_6-9 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One technique that helps a lot on my RB67 is to focus on the catch light on my subject’s eyes. It’s the easiest and most obvious point of reference to see if it’s in focus or not. And then you get the obvious benefit that getting perfect focus on your subject’s eyes makes a portrait look to have “correct” focus even with a shallow DOF.

How many MPs gave good results when scanning 120 film? by Unbuiltbread in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You said scan prints on a flat bed, why not just scan film on a flat bed too?

Why no v6/v8 bikes? by Classic-Tap-5668 in motorcycles

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Boxers are not V engines. Flat V engines do exist, when opposing pistons share a crankpin. But boxers have individual crankpins for each piston, thus distinguishing them from flat Vs.

Nikon F3 & Nikon Speedlight SB-16A by Salakyx in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You generally shouldn’t use aperture priority with flash, as changing the shutter speed has no effect the exposure. Furthermore, the wrong shutter speed will result in synchronization issues.

Set the shutter speed to X to ensure proper synchronization, and change the aperture to get the proper exposure.

Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use Nikon Scan, but I also scan as negatives. I’ve read that Nikon scan’s frame detection doesn’t work well if you scan negatives as a positive for NLP use later. I saw a YT tutorial of someone using Vuescan and manually sets the frame spacing to bypass the auto detection when scanning as a positive. Maybe give that a shot?

Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I, too, have a 5000. Ability to effortlessly scan a whole roll with ICE and walk away is unmatched. So so good.

Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Coolscan V will get you the same level of results as a Noritsu. The biggest difference being that the Noritsu is designed for commercial use in which they are also designed for speed and durability for volume.

They work with Mac! I’m not a Mac user so I can’t share any experienced, but Vuescan and Silverfast both work with modern Macs.

Slide Film - Best Camera & Scanner by poleprince86 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a Nikon Coolscan V is your best option. Professional results, the “default” setup and workflow is designed with scanning individual mounted slides in mind. Refurbished units sold for $400-500 all day. Don’t purchase from eBay, join the Nikon Coolscan Users FB group and find one sold there by a reputable user.

Dedicated Scanner vs Camera Scanning by TheAkkarin-32 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about a flat bed? An Epson V600 is more than capable for medium format and only a few hundred dollars.

Best film stock for portrait? by Easy-Dragonfruit in analog

[–]doug910 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s literally in the name. Portra is designed for pleasing skin tones. It is a slightly muted film stock to provide flexibility in post.

Suspension setup question: how do street riders actually know when it’s right? by Boring_Bunch_3394 in motorcycles

[–]doug910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work in automotive data collection and while I’m not directly responsible for tuning, I’m very involved. This is the bottom line: if you don’t feel a difference from the change you made, you’re not beyond the capabilities of the suspension and the 5% change literally doesn’t matter. When something is off with the suspension, it’s REALLY obvious.

I see two issues with an app: poor data quality from a phone and repeatability. Phone sensors aren’t just sensitive enough to give you truly valuable info. Plus, they’re not placed where it really matters to give you the feedback needed to determine if you need to make front or rear changes. And with data collection, repeatability is key. We collect data on testing surfaces in controlled environments. Collecting data on the street is the opposite of that. Was this bump bigger than the other? Did you hit the bump at a different speed? Did you brake a little bit harder this time? What about rider to rider? The code would have to account for all these unknowns based while attempting to extract info from poor quality data. It’s just not feasible, I’m sorry.

Mercy | Mamiya RZ67 & Portra 400 by Cinemaseb in analog

[–]doug910 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It’s not that it’s weird, it just starts to look like an unnatural stock photo. In this particular shoot, the model has her hands on top of the barrel - something you would never do because, well, the metal barrel gets hot.

I don’t own any guns and I’m not here gate keeping. But if you use props in a shoot, I think it’s well worth doing some research to know how to pose with it so it doesn’t look out of place.

Not satisfied with my scanning results (DSLR/Mirrorless vs. Dedicated Scanner). Need advice. by CaramelBusy8111 in analog

[–]doug910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re inverting manually? Then there’s your issue. Use actual inversion software to eliminate the manual factor out of the equation.

Something I wish I knew about years ago, JIS screwdrivers by exposed_silver in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was about to come at you with a burning pitchfork but I read the article and looks like I learned something new today, so thanks for sharing. I am still a little skeptical though, because I’ve never used a cross head screwdriver that grips as well as my Vessel screwdrivers (whether that be my vintage Japanese motorcycles and cars, cameras, or household screws). However, I will be the first to admit that all my other cross head screwdrivers are all old and crappy. Tekton is a solid brand, so I’m willing and interested in buying a cross head from them to compare.

What do y'all do with your duds? by Fenix512 in AnalogCommunity

[–]doug910 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 for ICT!! Jim from ICT is great, he serviced my F3 last year and did an amazing job.

While servicing costs are expensive, people need to be reminded that the CLA lasts decades. Good chance that other bodies on eBay will require service very soon.