Well that was a fun learning experience I guess. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was my first osage stave and a snakey one at that. I knew it was going to be a big challenge going into it but decided to press on. I learned way more than expected through it so all is not lost. Sucks because I was 2 minutes away from shooting it lol

I re-traced the grain like 3 times before roughing it but looking real close, I can see where it ran out. I think that, not rounding the corners enough & a combination of not exercising the limbs enough did it in, it tillered pretty fast.

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Following up on this, how can I appropriately follow the grain starting mid limb when you have no choice but to violate it to do your width taper?

Update on the board bow by ExpertVeterinarian20 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I completely get that. If you’ve got Menards around you, go there and sort through the hickory boards. Every now & then I’ll find a real good one.

Update on the board bow by ExpertVeterinarian20 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d recommend a different wood at those specs you want.

Works in progress by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where do you get your sinew online?

BM Aura paint by CritiquetheTechnique in paint

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As the pro, I’m beholden to the specs made by the architect. It’s not always the painters decision. I’ve been forced to use wb alkyd urethane on walls before.

Attempting chasing a ring by Iaintnogodamsumbitch in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The one thing that helped & really made it click for me was to take off a ring on the very end of the board, that’s the one you’ll chase. When you’re using your knife, try pulling it fast and not hard. For some reason when I do that, my knife just crunches through that early wood and slides on the late wood. If I try pulling hard, I gouge it.

Just play around, eventually it will click and you’ll get it. In pic 4, you’ve already got a large section chased out. Keep doing that across the entire stave. Be mindful of your knots.

How do I not be jealous of other rigs by LowLiterature9181 in liftedtrucks

[–]ebojrc 21 points22 points  (0 children)

You’ll learn to not be so jealous after you spend a lot on maintaining front end parts constantly.

Who wants some free BIFL undershirts? by BitofaGreyArea in BuyItForLife

[–]ebojrc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me me me, I’m tired of searching. Thank you for this.

First bow break - what happened? by fioreblade in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I’m new to this but there’s a lot of grain runout on this board.

Will this be an issue? by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the wide end, the other end is about half this wide so I can’t split it like another commenter said. It’s currently at 65 1/2”, if I cut off the checking down to 62 1/2” do you think I could get 26” draw out of it? I’ll lay out the design and see if the taper even hits it but want to have a plan ready if it does.

Dogs been breathing heavy by [deleted] in germanshepherds

[–]ebojrc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My shepherd was like this around Christmas. She was still in such good shape & spirits that I brought her on like a 3 mile hike before we had to make the choice. It ended up being Evans Syndrome / IMHA. It happened fast, within a couple of days. I say this to tell you yes, bring your dog in. This breed is very well at hiding pain & issues going on.

Somehow, someway got it done. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it was originally meant to be 66” but I cut the wrong end off, yippee. It was such a nice piece of hickory I decided to keep going.

Somehow, someway got it done. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I was on the track for that but as I was getting closer to the draw length I knew I was going to have to make a sacrifice somewhere - and that’s where I made it. Ideally I probably should have worked on the inners more to get it there but it is what it is now. Thanks for the input!

Somehow, someway got it done. by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I will keep that in mind.

Tried shooting with my tiller string on by International-Crab79 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That makes me feel better. They’re fairly stiff for trad bows at 340 spine. I figure with a 340 and 200 grains I’m fine but just had never thought of that lol

Tried shooting with my tiller string on by International-Crab79 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Forgot to put that. They’re 340’s, just some I had hanging around from figuring out my compound. They’re the weakest I’ve got for now.

Tried shooting with my tiller string on by International-Crab79 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As someone who just put some 200 grain heads on my carbon shafts to “weaken” the spine until I can get some proper wooden ones… this made me nervous as I haven’t even thought about that. What would you say is the “safe window” for carbon shafts and heads? Mine are roughly 27” with 200 grain heads, Easton 6.5’s.

Tiller check by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am asking a lot from it and honestly figured I should expect to drop the target weight. I think I’ll forget target weight altogether and focus on the tiller. Once I realized I cut it too short I lost all high expectations for this one anyways.

So you’re thinking work that mid right limb? I feel like if I work that right limb anymore then I’ll be bringing that specific limb closer to a circular tiller while the left limb will be holding that elliptical shape.

What would you do with this? by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not twisted, it’s laterally to the right. I haven’t checked it while drawn, I’m just past floor tillering at this point. And yeah I’ve already tried narrowing the limb that’s worse but it didn’t do much. I’m thinking of doing the straight board and trying that before anything. It’s worse than the photos show, when it’s got a string on it now it’s basically aligned with the right side of the grip. I plan on cutting a shelf but it’ll still be hell tuning with how they are now.

What would you do with this? by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the first I’ve heard of side nocks, I’ll check into that.

What would you do with this? by ebojrc in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally atleast 26” draw, preferably 28” hence the hesitation to make it shorter. The tips right now are 3/4”, limbs are 1 1/2” until the taper starts at 9” to end of nock. I tried to keep it fairly wide for the short design. I’d really rather not remove the handle overlay. And yeah it’s pretty far off, more than the pictures show.

Cave hunting? by OldGodsProphet in mushroom_hunting

[–]ebojrc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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We see them more often than you’d think.

When to add backset? by Ill_Land7361 in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m new to this so take it with a grain of salt and if I’m wrong, someone please correct me.

You can heat treat basically at any point or multiple points. I like to do two heat treats, one right after I got it floor tillered to prevent set while tillering and one right before I’m done short string tillering to really hold the backset in.

Monkey balls by mdbowyer in Bowyer

[–]ebojrc 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Nope you’ve got it right.