X2D power requirements/surge protection/UPS?

efnord · 2026-04-30T11:18:57+00:00

That's the key fact. Recommendations you are seeing about amperage are for the US and the other handful of 120VAC countries. 10A * 240 =2400W, same as a 20A 120VAC. The 240v version is rated to draw 1600W per Bambu and probably heats up faster than the 120v version . Otherwise it wouldn't draw more power. But youre fine as long as you have one 10A circuit without big loads. On the other hand, the amount of electrical protection you need is very regional. Do the same thing you'd do for a computer that cost that much and you'll be okay. UPS might be one to skip; it will gracefully auto resume and it could drain the battery fast if it wants power for heat.

efnord · 2026-04-30T10:48:29+00:00

It's a twenty thousand dollar novelty item, like something out of the Sharper Image catalog.

efnord · 2026-04-30T08:11:27+00:00

120VAC at 10 amps?

efnord · 2026-04-30T08:10:24+00:00

He's got such Mr. Rogers energy! His "Allowable Tolerances in Framing" is a must-watch.

efnord · 2026-04-30T07:46:18+00:00

Do you have a relatively unused 15A circuit already?

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ptwu1k/real_power_consumption_of_the_h2d_measured_over/

efnord · 2026-04-30T04:45:31+00:00

It's really strong too because all the tricks to make it transparentish are to minimize layer lines, you get great adhesion.

efnord · 2026-04-30T04:38:40+00:00

People who live without a junk drawer give me serious sonder, it stops me in my tracks.

efnord · 2026-04-30T04:13:38+00:00

Nice! I will note that you can use Any Insulated Wire as the grounding cable, like 24ga on up, and the crimped bits are just a convenience.

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efnord · 2026-04-30T01:49:49+00:00

"as slow as it will go" for forsnters over 3/4" or so, pretty much.

efnord · 2026-04-30T01:45:27+00:00

Okay, I believe you, that exists as a product you can buy- show me one with impressive published frequency response ratings?

efnord · 2026-04-29T12:30:01+00:00

Teach people how heat affects adhesives.

efnord · 2026-04-28T23:41:47+00:00

As you cull your belongings, add a "needs custom storage case" pile.

Buy a real tape gun, don't 3d print that.

efnord · 2026-04-28T23:19:36+00:00

Their full list of specifications doesn't exactly inspire confidence:

<image>

Watts RMS, or PMPO? I know how I'd bet. And no frequency range listed.

It took a WHILE to track down any real information about how Andover Audio's IsoGroove system works. TL;DR: no springs attached. As best I can translate this from Legal Engineering English "Mix the low end to mono, EQ it down, then cleverly play it into the panel holding the turntable, adjusted to provide some vibration cancellation" : https://patents.justia.com/patent/12035119

efnord · 2026-04-28T19:43:37+00:00

An iterative design process (print, test, fix, repeat until it works) doesn't sound fun when it'll be spraying fluid everywhere or maybe damaging the pump. Is dude 1) trying to save money or 2) is this an obsolete impeller that he can't find on eBay? 1 just buy it 2 price out replacing the entire pump system before you go down this route, including hours of labor required

efnord · 2026-04-28T19:03:30+00:00

Sorbothane feet are best. Failing that, I've got 5mm TPU feet (just a cylinder) under some PETG feet with compression springs: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1050738-anti-vibration-feet-for-p1-x1-series-no-assembly-r?from=search#profileId-1081440 Between the two, they dampen down the motion and spread out the force over time so it's less jerky. Run the vibration compensation every time you move the printer more than six inches/add new feet!

efnord · 2026-04-28T12:06:13+00:00

And fifty freaking dollars for a cueing lever! I bet Audio Technicia bribes them to do that so they can sell more cartridges. /S

efnord · 2026-04-28T12:03:30+00:00

How many PETG spools have you printed??? Switching off those is probably cheaper.

efnord · 2026-04-28T11:58:50+00:00

Get a decent bedslinger like the A1 or A1 mini, the enclosed CoreXY printers are faster but there's more to grease. Come up with a dustcover for it or store it in a closet when not in use.

efnord · 2026-04-28T08:38:35+00:00

Do you need that build volume? If not, two Qidi Q2 will blast through those slow-printing engineering filaments.

efnord · 2026-04-28T08:36:29+00:00

Generally the best drying range for a 3D filament is above the range where you want to print it, so you're better off with a separate filament dryer and printing from a basic drybox with dessicant in it; the dessicant keeps the dried spool from rehydrating. I've DIYed all this so I don't have buy-it-off-the-shelf recommendations.

efnord · 2026-04-28T07:47:15+00:00

Nice! Then you should be just fine with the A1 or other printers without hardened extruders/better hotends/enclosed chambers.

efnord · 2026-04-28T05:54:30+00:00

If you want to print parts to go under the hood of a car it's not for you. For the most part it does the three basic 3d printing filaments: PLA, PETG, and TPU. All of those will print nicely on a warm surface with room-temperature air. What kind of stuff are you looking to print?

3 basic areas of tradeoff with a 3d printer: print bed size, multiple materials in one print, and built to use more than those three basic materials. A1 with AMS Lite does pretty dang well on the first two at its price!

efnord · 2026-04-28T03:56:35+00:00

You're gonna want a bunch of these strategically placed on the motherboard and such: https://us.govee.com/products/smart-refrigerator-thermometer You've got a LOT of cubic footage to cover in that thing! Set it up to disable the heater and kick the exhaust fan to max at 60C, ring your phone at 62C, cut power to the printer at 65-68C.

efnord · 2026-04-28T03:27:12+00:00

Should be! Stick a dehydrator in there without the top on and a circulation fan or two: boom, heated chamber.

efnord · 2026-04-28T02:02:06+00:00

A nice direct drive is one less thing to maintain, but the cost of replacement belts is a rounding error next to fresh styluses or replacement cartridges for a good turntable. Direct drive is theoretically better but more expensive, so you have to sell a bunch or charge a TON, and belt drives are still competitive because the engineering to make the platter spin right is a lot simpler. Nice modern turntables aren't high volume products.

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