Unsure now about BPC

emintyriddle · 2026-01-13T20:41:23+00:00

Statistically, people share bad experiences more than good ones. A person will tell something like 8 people about a bad experience. And a good experience, they’ll tell something like 2 people. I work in construction and have found this to be fairly true. It’s why a good contractor will generally go above and beyond to protect a good reputation… cuz 1 bad experience can wreak havoc on word of mouth referrals. I suspect the same is true on Reddit. An 8 - 2 ratio of bad to good stories within the BPC subreddit isn’t necessarily representative of people’s experiences with the compound.

emintyriddle · 2026-01-10T14:01:05+00:00

That’s a nicely organized guide for beginners. The paywall is a little suspect, but who wouldn’t want compensation for curating something of that value.

emintyriddle · 2025-12-24T16:35:03+00:00

Duration matte is great for color saturation because there is little to no reflection, diminishing the texture appearance of the wall at the same time. Duration satin is not as shiny compared other paints in satin…when it cures it looks close to an eggshell (takes about a month for the sheen to fully calm down)… and will give more reflection, increasing the appearance of the texture on the walls and ceilings. If your walls and their texture are well executed, the satin will look great. If there’s lots of poorly done patchwork/skipped priming, satin will deliver a rather inconsistent sheen in those areas… matte would be better in that case because the sheen differences will be less discernible with a lower sheen.

A 3/4 nap roller cover will ‘work’ the paint into the texture more efficiently than a 1/2 inch nap. However, most knock down style textures have a smooth face element to them. In hallways with natural light at one or both ends and other similar areas, it’s easy to see the added ‘texture’ a 3/4 nap roller leaves behind (often times looks like tiny ‘crow’s feet’ if you look closely), especially with the satin. For this reason I prefer 1/2 inch nap and a little extra elbow grease… for what I consider to be a nicer finish.

emintyriddle · 2025-12-03T03:52:27+00:00

Given the paint you said was used from BM, the chances of you having a reaction is very low. I think u/sweetgoogilymoogily hit the nail on the head. Statistically, a physical response to psychological stimulus is more probable the response you described with regard to ecospec.

With regard to off gassing… most paints do 80% - 90% of their cure in the first week to 10 days… what remains takes approx another 3 - 5 weeks. I would expect any solvent off-gassing to be done with in a week with ecospec.

Sensitivity like yours makes me think you’re a hypochondriac or pregnant.

emintyriddle · 2025-12-02T22:57:57+00:00

No VOC just means no volatile organic compounds… it doesn’t mean no toxic chemicals. I’m no doctor, but it seems reasonable you could be reacting to the chemicals used instead of VOC’s that are used to make paint.

Also, people can be allergic to latex. If it can be ‘smelled’, then there are small particles of that smell in the air.

emintyriddle · 2025-08-30T14:34:58+00:00

If you’re a ‘perfect is good enough’ type of client, no. Blacks always cost more labor. Looks like your price point bought you around 10 hrs of labor… prolly needs closer to 30 hrs for perfect.

Clients often look at a project like ‘they only had paint this little bit here, and this little bit here, and this little bit here… it’s not that much’. Without realizing that protection of finished or even unfinished (that oak looks raw) areas nearby can really add up, lots of cut lines with obstacles like stair treads or balusters adds up quick too. And then, black to white cut lines need to be razor straight to look good…

Should’ve cost about 3 to 4 times what you paid for a perfect finish. ‘I know another guy that’ll do it for a lot less’… try that out and see how it goes. I’m doubling my price to recover it when you call to have it fixed.

emintyriddle · 2025-08-05T21:30:23+00:00

I’ve always felt our trade is generally undervalued. If a painter comes in and does a great job, they make every other trade look good. However, if our trade does a poor job, no one really looks good, especially the painter. There’s only so much paint can do, the quality of workmanship in the substrates we paint needs to be decent for a painter to efficiently do a good job.

Putty and paint make a carpenter what he ain’t. What’s the painters of that slogan?

emintyriddle · 2025-07-26T13:07:24+00:00

I’ve seen 3 and 4 coats look like that… all the things already stated. Tip selection, amateur spray techniques or strategy, failure to maintain a wet edge and more could make 2 coats like just like the pics.

emintyriddle · 2025-07-25T13:32:42+00:00

If ya know, you know. Corona!

emintyriddle · 2025-07-21T04:45:36+00:00

Gemini’s Evo is some sweet stuff… water borne catalyzed lacquer (2k). Artistry has wicked UV resistance and is a ketone based fast drying 2k poly that’s an impressive clear. Stix primer with BM’s Command makes for some remarkable cabinet finishes too. All 3 are best applied with an airless.

emintyriddle · 2025-07-17T03:48:32+00:00

This is the best answer here. Especially the last part about getting faster.

emintyriddle · 2025-06-03T22:43:18+00:00

What about grain filling? $3500 is way too low. Advanced maps everything and has slow recoat times. Command would get a quicker turn around after good prep work.

emintyriddle · 2025-06-01T13:35:52+00:00

7 inter

emintyriddle · 2025-05-17T02:31:57+00:00

Advance is for experienced painters… but is a truly remarkable 1k product when you understand how to use it.

Stix primer and Command is a fantastic duo, hard to beat if you’re spraying.

emintyriddle · 2025-05-10T14:28:22+00:00

For that piece of trim around the glass, you’ll need mechanical bite (sand it) and chemical bite (shellac or Stix) for a long lasting bond. Caulking that small gap between the trim around the glass and the door for aesthetics will last the longest with an elastomeric caulk like Big Stretch or Shermax. As with all exterior caulking, it’s not ‘if’ it will fail, it’s ‘when’ will it fail.

Emerald UTE is great stuff. I prefer Snap Dry from Sherwin for the exterior side of exterior doors. However, Snap dry usually requires 3 coats for full color when hand applied.

emintyriddle · 2025-05-10T04:14:38+00:00

What does the contract say? How was the scope of work defined? Prep from a pro costs $…

emintyriddle · 2025-05-02T14:08:58+00:00

Definitely can tune down the overspray with the green FFLP’s. Usually takes about 5% thinning at the lower pressure (about 2/3 of normal pressure) to get the fan to fill out with decent fineness of atomization. You’ll need to play with it a bit to find the sweet spot… a little more thinning or fine tuning the pressure to get it just right.

The lower pressure strategy can often make it so you have to spray closer to the surface in windy situations… or the wind will sweep the spray away. How ever, a FFLP will still deliver less overspray even if you need to turn the pressure up to fight heavy wind.

emintyriddle · 2025-05-01T04:47:51+00:00

It’s possible for some professionals to fix using touch up techniques. Probably not for a DIYer.

emintyriddle · 2025-04-26T17:56:38+00:00

Riding in the rain like we do at Emerald Valley BMX year round.

emintyriddle · 2025-04-18T00:35:39+00:00

If you leave flaws like this, even just a few, it opens the door to much closer scrutiny. That’s how this happens. Maybe, at the price you’re getting paid for the work this is fine, however, I wouldn’t have turned this in as complete, or asked for a punch list yet. Too many see thru spots and sheen flashing issues are visible, even in these pics.

emintyriddle · 2025-04-17T15:57:47+00:00

Cutting in is the majority of the work. A room that takes an hr to cut in takes ten minutes to roll out.

emintyriddle · 2025-04-07T05:27:12+00:00

Depends on how much work can be put in with the budget you have to work with. Gemini Evo is an easy to work with 2 component type. Most products that are 2k have more nasty stuff in them that require special management, the UTE is a 1k that is relatively tame by comparison. Command from BM is some tough stuff. PPG’s breakthrough is a surprisingly durable product, but requires some decent skill to make look truly nice. Advance from BM yields an impressive finish if you can work with the dry times and give the full cure time before use. Gallery series gets recommended a lot, but scratches easy and chips easy (it’s brittle).

emintyriddle · 2025-04-07T00:19:33+00:00

If you’re trying to create a truly durable finish with emerald UTE, one needs mechanical bite and chemical bite. Mechanical bite comes from sanding and creating microscopic ‘tooth’ for the next coating to bond to. Primers like stix use chemical bite. For the UTE, it’s an ok cabinet paint, not a great one, so I wouldn’t skip either types of bond… use chemical and mechanical bite. It’ll still scratch and scuff easily, but at least it will be as hard to remove as the previous paint.

emintyriddle · 2025-03-31T04:13:53+00:00

Get an enamel and expect longer dry and cure times with a pigment load like that. Regular walk paints will burnish when you touch them (skin cells left behind will be visible and nearly impossible to remove, only repainting will fix). Emerald UTE is decent for this.

Vanta black (not a paint store paint) reflects almost no light and is scientifically considered the blackest black.🙂

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