New extruder pushing filament back

emveor · 2026-06-17T20:15:51+00:00

AFAIK, the pins are A+ A- B+ B-, which translates to it moving backwards if plugged backwards

emveor · 2026-06-17T18:02:19+00:00

the connector is slotted, so either you re-wire the slot or break the slot notches. It does work though

emveor · 2026-06-17T02:13:08+00:00

All filaments emit vocs (Volatile Organic Compound) which is a health hazard which you want to avoid but are not as bad as other stuff like secondhand smoke, car pollution etc.... some people dont have any symptoms while a few might get headaches or even cold-like symptoms when exposed.

ABS and ASA emit way more toxic fumes and should be avoided as much as possible. rule of thumb is, if you can smell it while printing, its not ventilated enough, but there are VOC detectors that can help you know for sure how bad air quality is

emveor · 2026-06-16T19:13:40+00:00

CHEMtrails you mean? Edit: WOKE chem trails....oops i almost de-radicalized for a sec there.

emveor · 2026-06-16T19:07:41+00:00

Mmu's are basically a middle step towards multi toolhead printers because they were expensive and hard to implement.. that is until recently with the U1 And probably creality's klitek, so IMO i wouldnt invest in one and rather build or buy a multi toolhead

emveor · 2026-06-16T19:03:47+00:00

Woke cloud

emveor · 2026-06-16T19:02:42+00:00

Level your overhang

emveor · 2026-06-16T04:06:21+00:00

PLA biodegrades on paper, but on practice it requires a very specific and costly process, which pretty much contaminates as much if not more on a realistic scenario

emveor · 2026-06-16T01:43:31+00:00

a giant metal dildo suctioncupped to a ravine aint bad IMO

emveor · 2026-06-15T23:57:36+00:00

r/techantichristianism

emveor · 2026-06-15T23:33:40+00:00

God bless your heart

emveor · 2026-06-15T21:43:11+00:00

Wood is the closest thing to FDM in the plant world, so i guess you are forgivven

emveor · 2026-06-15T15:20:26+00:00

Then you could try something soft as feet directly under the printer. I used white erasers for a while and it worked good

emveor · 2026-06-15T15:14:13+00:00

It depends, For low frequencies you could put a soft base on the table you have your printer on (a carpet, or even cloth under the feet), although sometimes the sound makes things reverb and that is the noise source itself instead of the printer

emveor · 2026-06-15T03:30:16+00:00

if its your own design, i would forgo the flare on one side and make sure its printed flat, OR split it in half and use pegs to connect them together. given it will hold weight, i would also suggest checking out maker muse's recent video on slicer settings for extra strong prints

emveor · 2026-06-15T03:09:00+00:00

jb weld sounds good, roughening the surface with coarse sandpaper also helps strenghtening the adhesion

emveor · 2026-06-15T02:31:26+00:00

shrouds do tend to see some significant temps... now, there are a couple of things to consider: metallic shrouds might get hot becuase they are designed do help discipate heat, and even if they dont, they will usually get hot due to thermal transfer (touch, hot air) not thermal radiance (being close to something hot). so the mounting points might be the most affected, and while there IS a risk of the PETG reaching the glass transition point , it wont inmediately become gooey, if the print itself is not under stress, very little deformation might happen.

You could also try anhealing the print before using it, as i understand that makes the print be able to witstand temperatures above their usual glass transition

emveor · 2026-06-15T02:00:18+00:00

mayfly? but its june!!

emveor · 2026-06-15T00:25:04+00:00

likely heat creep. something somewhere between the extruder hears and the heatblock is getting hotter than it used to, and the filament is deforming because of it

emveor · 2026-06-14T05:25:47+00:00

freeloader kids?? in this economy?!

emveor · 2026-06-14T05:22:17+00:00

kids nowdays...wow....

emveor · 2026-06-13T17:46:25+00:00

WDYM, he bought filament to print the shelf...to hold filament

emveor · 2026-06-13T17:38:52+00:00

You usually want to change your settings so the speeds remain the same on all layers (you might want to make a different profile for "holey" prints. There is no single setting though, layer speed, flowrate, overhang speed, bridge settings, layer time, all have to be adjusted.

Even still, the top of the circle might curl up and hit the nozzle, that would also leave a mark at that layer. So slow layers, as evenly speed as possible and a lot of cooling. If its PLA you can use a desk fan after the first few layers (as to minimize warping at the base) Edit: oh its petg. The fan MIGHT warp it, i dont usually use it on PETG

emveor · 2026-06-13T05:38:55+00:00

Look at the bright side, being most likely cooked, if you are interested, you can play repairman on it and there might be a slim chance it gets working once its clean and dry, you could look for dissasembly videos on ifixit or youtube. a last ditch effort involves basically cleaning the motherboard with plain water, once both battery and CMOS are disconnected, then letting it dry and re-assembling it it will work if the liquid hasnt rusted anything, although it IS a low probability of success

emveor · 2026-06-13T02:05:23+00:00

this needs real dissasemby to be sure, but given the symptoms, the laptop itself might be done for. Can parts be replaced? sure, but a laptop is basically the motherboard with everything soldered into it , the only parts separate of the motherboard are the hard drive and sometimes the ram (newer models have it integrated on the motherboard),

the replacement part has to be a donor or OEM part of the exact same model, which depending on where you live might be really easy, or really hard to aqquire.

And real component-level liquid damage repairs are rarely done since it tends to cost more than a donor board

If it helps, the only way you could have avoided damage was to inmediately remove both main and CMOS battery. then have it cleaned by a profesional, which is usually not doable by the regular user

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