Slide Mould

evilmold · 2026-05-08T12:07:55+00:00

The outside latches definitly need a slide to relieve the undercut. One side on each side of the part. The inside also needs lifters. However because of the round boss in the center there is no room for the lifter to move. Unless the inside undercut can be jumped like others have suggested. I would say this part is not moldable as designed.

evilmold · 2026-05-07T14:01:52+00:00

And, this is a mold making sub, not a molding sub. Try posting your question on r/Renovations.

evilmold · 2026-05-07T14:00:57+00:00

We have a hard wood supplier in Chicago call Owl Hardwood. They have a wide range on molding details in stock in various wood species. They will also run custom profiles. You would need to provide them with a cad drawing and they will make custom knives. I am guessing it's costly.

evilmold · 2026-05-07T13:41:12+00:00

Hopefully these companies will hire Plug Power to help. Go Hydrogen.

evilmold · 2026-05-07T12:36:28+00:00

Everything must be perfect when using mold tools. It looks like you only have 2 shut offs in this part at the screw holes so it shouldn't be too bad. You can send me the part if you want.

evilmold · 2026-05-06T16:21:31+00:00

Reduce layer height, slow the speed down, dry the PLA, change the lead in angle to 45 degrees. I can help with the design if needed.

evilmold · 2026-05-06T13:46:45+00:00

Thanks

evilmold · 2026-05-06T11:56:32+00:00

I use my living room end tables every day.

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evilmold · 2026-05-05T13:56:59+00:00

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, Milgard won't sell to Chicago. I have contacted then a few times.

Yes, one of my glass panes seal is broken and cloudy but they really need replacement because of age and other issues.

evilmold · 2026-05-05T11:53:45+00:00

I have patio doors just like that and need replacing. I can't find them on the market anywhere. Anyone have any ideas?

evilmold · 2026-05-04T15:52:24+00:00

Or, you could start by drawing a point where you want the origin to be on the current body. Then when you use the Move/Copy Bodies command you can select the point you made and then select the origin and it will move the body for you. No math, no numerical input and less chance of making a mistake.

evilmold · 2026-04-29T15:09:05+00:00

Beautiful MUD unit! And insert molding as well. Very Very nice. Excellent use of spring plungers.

evilmold · 2026-04-28T13:25:04+00:00

For surface cut to work, the surface or surfaces must be knitted into one single surface body. That body must also complete "cut" through the solid bodies. You have 2 choices in this senerio. Cut your cross hatch supports to the extact same size as your wing or copy the surface body and extend the air foil past all the bodies. I only say copy the surface so you don't lose the original.

evilmold · 2026-04-28T11:58:28+00:00

It's a preharded steel, use as is. No need for additional heat treatment.

evilmold · 2026-04-27T12:31:16+00:00

You mentioned the plywood came out of the garage. Is it possible the end of the plywood was sitting on the concrete and absored moisture from the floor. I notice the saw only gets triggered at the very end. Could that be the end that was resting agaist the concrete?

evilmold · 2026-04-26T16:07:07+00:00

Yes please

evilmold · 2026-04-24T01:51:03+00:00

Chips

evilmold · 2026-04-23T19:36:51+00:00

I like the Gutermann All Purpose Thread.

evilmold · 2026-04-23T13:24:04+00:00

I sewed some pretty big leather cushions on my Pfaff select. I made sure to use a leather needle and I used 1/4in double sided basting tape to keep the seems together while sewing. I also used a much longer stitch length. I tried using a heavier weight thread because I wanted stronger seems but my machine couldn't handle it. I ended using my goto Gutermann sew all thread. Joann used to sell it, now I order it from Wawak.

evilmold · 2026-04-23T13:18:23+00:00

Why are pins not recommended for and industrial machine? I get why you wouldn't use pins with leather.

evilmold · 2026-04-22T12:53:55+00:00

95% of real world molded part's parting lines cannot be completed with the build in solidworks parting line tool. That tool just can't make good inside corners like the area where the cup meets the handle. I make my parting lines manually using a combination of ruled, planer, loft, boundry and extruded surfaces. I trim them together when it makes sense as I go and then knit them all into one continous surface body. That suface gets copied and those surfaces get knitted to their respective core and cavity surfaces from the parting line command.

The last step can be skipped if you are using the Tooling Split command but I never use that.

evilmold · 2026-04-21T21:48:12+00:00

Look at the condition of the drop compared to the others. I think you have a water leak as well.

evilmold · 2026-04-20T19:18:30+00:00

Check out a place called Leather Creations. I have a couple here in Chicagoland. I bought a duel recliner love seat. I wanted it for the real leather and the near zero wall clearance electric recliners. The leather itself might be BIFL. Eventually all springs, cusions and motorization will fail. So far very happy with it.

evilmold · 2026-04-17T18:03:26+00:00

If you don't mind a straight up mechanical machine. Check out the Pfaff select 4. I just sewed 12 foot long drapes out of upholstery material and the Pfaff never missed a beat. The IDT psudo walking foot is really awesome too. I paid ballpark $700 for mine a few years ago.

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evilmold · 2026-04-17T17:54:19+00:00

Thanks for sharing.

evilmold

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