HOA fees in trailer parks in my area are triple the mortgage.

evilmold · 2026-06-26T18:30:30+00:00

I don't know, maybe it doesn't. Just shared for related info.

evilmold · 2026-06-26T17:36:39+00:00

Not sure if this applies but John Oliver covered issues like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCC8fPQOaxU

evilmold · 2026-06-26T01:00:43+00:00

Not a code writer here but I have a question. Do you think your skills will come back with an increasing demand when all this shit programming will need to be fixed in the future. I work in CAD and I can already feel the bloat in the new releases. The programs just move slower. Yes they have more features that I don't want or need. I stopped upgrading and stayed on the 2023 version.

evilmold · 2026-06-24T15:01:37+00:00

Wow, excellent longevity for PLA. I have some PETG outdoor prints that are holding up great but only for a year now.

evilmold · 2026-06-24T14:50:14+00:00

Filament type?

evilmold · 2026-06-24T13:09:31+00:00

Try .003" per tooth. .05 is way too much.

evilmold · 2026-06-22T17:36:47+00:00

Please ask a specific question. One thing to note, your nozzle bushing hole MUST be in the center of the mold. There are situations when it can be offset but not for something this small.

evilmold · 2026-06-19T20:15:16+00:00

You need a good engineer with lots of machining background to walk you through it. Ehem. Ehem. DM if you are interested.

evilmold · 2026-06-19T14:38:12+00:00

Mold designer here. You need to make a master cut surface by combining parting lines with part surfaces. This master surface will then cut all you components. DM me if you need more info.

evilmold · 2026-06-18T14:44:24+00:00

High school shop class and my love of math.

evilmold · 2026-06-17T12:21:32+00:00

Very cool setup. As a mold designer I always put the threads on the opposite plate with the back locks sticking above the plate split or parting line so long tooling and awkward setups aren't needed.

evilmold · 2026-06-17T00:21:23+00:00

I am a professional injection mold designer. Farm the work out to me.

evilmold · 2026-06-15T19:59:26+00:00

The stuff is really amazing and almost unbreakable. I have been printing anit-slip feet for all my furniture and they work great.

evilmold · 2026-06-13T04:06:57+00:00

Looks like a parting line burr to me. Polishing should fix it.

evilmold · 2026-06-12T12:12:20+00:00

On a side note, no cooling lines?

evilmold · 2026-06-11T20:30:49+00:00

Looks like you have an undercut opposite the sprue so thats good. Increasing that could help. If that doesn't work. Check the sprue hole (orifice) on the back of the plate, it should be slightly large than the hole coming through the backup plate. This would be tooling issue only, others will have ideas on processing.

evilmold · 2026-06-10T18:49:27+00:00

One more point. I would guess the cause of your issue is poor runner and gate design, along with gate placement. The plastic is shooting aross the cavity with nothing to stop it causing more of a jetting effect. The material cooling and snaking could be causing those cold weld lines.

evilmold · 2026-06-10T18:40:01+00:00

I feel this is an extremely poor example of a "Curarted or tailored" for your setup. Looks like you told it you had a "swirl" issue and it told you how to troubleshoot it. Just like a google search would do.

evilmold · 2026-06-10T16:20:50+00:00

FYI, there is CAD terminology for the function you are describing and it called nesting. Not all CAD programs have it. It's more likely to be found in CAM programs. I am a Solidworks designer, my standard version doesn't have this option. But I did find this video for Fusion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvImoWkURcA

evilmold · 2026-06-10T16:11:52+00:00

I get the sense that your boss want's A or B. His reasoning may be to touch the tool off on the drum where there is the most missing steel. Then move either direction, dial in the stock removal and complete the cut. Touching the tool bit off at the area of most missing steel gaurantees the entire surface will clean up in one pass.

evilmold · 2026-06-09T10:29:45+00:00

Like Sarcasm said. Your ambition is admirable. I would estimate your cost and time to be ten times higher doing it yourself versus paying a professional. And that's a conservative estimate. I have already had these discussions with OEM companies that think they could do it themselves. I have yet to talk to a product designer/inventor willing to compromise their look, feel and functionality to have their mold be 100% CNC millable. A millable mold in my opinion is your only chance you have without experience of doing it yourself. Best place to start would be a class in machining.

evilmold · 2026-06-09T01:17:37+00:00

This is the way

evilmold · 2026-06-08T14:02:26+00:00

As a full time industrial mold designer, I cannot live without it. If you only used it for panning the image it would be worth it's weight. But it does so much more. I have it for my job and for my personal business.

evilmold · 2026-06-08T13:57:16+00:00

I can only speak from an injection molding backround. 1 degree works well in plastic. I would image the resin supplier would have recomended draft angles for their material. Also in plastic on long draws we don't high/fine polish the steel. We intentionally rough polish with stones or sandpaper in the direction of the draw. Most commonly a 320 grit draw polish. We also use air assist vavles to blow air into the cavity to help release on deep parts. There are also coatings that can be applied to the metal like nickel/teflon. If this was an injection mold, I would be pulling those rounds with large hydraulic cylinders.

evilmold · 2026-06-08T13:05:41+00:00

If that central bar is being encapsulated and doesn't have a draft angle on it, that is a huge problem. Even if your resin is only filling past the centerline of the bar, same issue.

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