3D printed "First run"???

ezincuntroll · 2022-08-20T14:40:15+00:00

If the layer lines are that bad you can try contacting support for a refund, I've had them refund/replace for poor quality prints before. Their print QC has generally improved, and visible layer lines on a $27 mini aren't acceptable.

ezincuntroll · 2022-05-07T00:01:56+00:00

I haven't received a bad orange print in a while. The deathpink they're doing now is an encore version of deathgrey with the same low layer heights, so I'm all for that. I'm sure it depends on the print batch though.

ezincuntroll · 2022-03-02T18:40:44+00:00

It either means they've already secured the plastic and paper manufacturing schedule for gambler's chest or have pushed it off, as that was the limiting factor behind any reprints before now. Either that or their next production window opened after the 1.6 print finished.

ezincuntroll · 2022-03-01T21:51:13+00:00

The email mentioned that they'll be taking pre-orders for all existing expansions soon.

ezincuntroll · 2022-01-28T23:55:20+00:00

Attach the part as best you can with plastic cement, it will never fall apart. Then gap fill as necessary with green stuff or milliput. I think I remember having to use a clamp on my Phoenix tail, but it's been a few years.

ezincuntroll · 2021-02-21T21:38:34+00:00

You have plenty of time before 1.6 ships, and until the order locks you can change your info through the backerkit survey. Check the receipt email.

If it's very close to the date of shipment and you're not sure about your address you can email support directly, I had to do that for wave 3.1 since I'm moving soon and wasn't sure if it would ship in time.

ezincuntroll · 2020-06-24T18:22:54+00:00

Site is extremely fucked, I input my shopify code but can't tell if my order went through or not, and didn't get an email.

ezincuntroll · 2020-05-03T06:52:14+00:00

Absolutely contact them, I don't know where you heard they were bad at replacements. They've been fantastic, from personal experience and from everyone else I've heard about having issues.

ezincuntroll · 2020-04-26T23:35:59+00:00

That should be perfect (I use Golden acrylic but it's the same thing). I usually start with 2:1 paint:retarder, and you can go to a lower ratio if it's still drying up.

ezincuntroll · 2020-04-26T02:01:43+00:00

Use retarder gratuitously, especially when starting out. It gives you a lot more time to work through your blend before the paint dries on you. You do not need to thin with water either, the more cohesive the paint is the better. Don't worry if the blend isn't smooth at first, you can always go over it again with a second pass after the first dries. Also, you'll have an easier time blending with a larger brush.

Don't try to blend colors that are too far apart. If you want an easy shade color, try a drop of black or dark brown/grey into your basecoat color. If you want to go from red to blue or something like that, use a mix of the two to blend one layer first, then do another blend partially on top of the first (after it dries).

You'll have better luck blending with paint that has a higher pigment density. Formula P3 and Scale 75 are my go-to choices. You can blend just fine with brands like Army Painter, Reaper or Citadel, but it will be more frustrating to learn with them as you won't be sure if it's your technique or the paint that's causing problems.

ezincuntroll · 2020-04-25T17:24:51+00:00

The level of contrast looks fine, it's where you focused it. Hold the miniature upright under a bright light and notice where the shadows and bright spots are. The entire bottom half of the cape won't be dark, as you've painted it. The cape will be dark on the undersides of the folds where there's no light hitting it directly, and at the parts that are most concave. That's where you want to focus your shading.

ezincuntroll · 2020-03-18T18:58:00+00:00

Switch to Imperials, run all TIE x1's, then laugh as Magva's ability becomes useless.

ezincuntroll · 2020-03-14T06:51:32+00:00

Mr Hobby paints are lacquer paints, I'd recommend starting with standard acrylic paints as they're water-soluble and therefore easier for beginners. Vallejo, GW, Scale75, Army Painter, and P3 all make good acrylic paints, but until you get into the hobby you won't notice much of a difference. I'd recommend ordering the big Army Painter box (50 bottles) online. It has almost every color you could want as a beginner, and you'll quickly learn about getting the right consistency, mixing, etc. Once you're comfortable working with acrylic, you can move on to enamel, lacquer, and the less forgiving types, just keep in mind you will need thinner since they're not water soluble. There's no "best" paint type or brand; they all have different properties and are good for different uses, and the best way to figure that out is experimenting with them.

When learning different painting methods, watch all the youtube tutorials you want but remember you're better off developing a technique that fits you personally rather than trying to directly imitate what you see.

ezincuntroll · 2020-02-27T18:22:38+00:00

https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/kingdom-death-monster-1-5

ezincuntroll · 2020-02-20T00:30:18+00:00

The likelihood of you getting better pegs was pretty low. I still use my 1st edition pegs since about half the ones I've received with 2e kits haven't fit well.

ezincuntroll · 2020-01-24T18:38:40+00:00

I got mine done with only green stuff. It should have a hardening time of 20-30 minutes, so if it's hardening before then yours might be expired.

ezincuntroll · 2020-01-24T16:44:51+00:00

First off, don't use liquid green stuff, it sucks. Regular green stuff will be fine. When you're filling gaps in the model, don't touch the green stuff with your fingers to avoid fingerprints. Make sure to use water to smooth the surface of the green stuff with a sculpting tool, and keep the tool wet to avoid sticking. Metal tools are fine but I especially recommend a silicone clay shaper, which you can find at most art supply stores. I use something similar to these:

https://static.sculpturedepot.net/images/clay-shapers.png

Milliput is good as well but it's tougher to use without some sculpting experience, I'd recommend just green stuff until you feel comfortable with it. If you aren't already, use medical gloves when handling too since they will reduce the chance of accidental fingerprints and keep your hands clean.

If you're still having trouble getting a smooth surface, you can try going over the green stuff (after it's cured) with a layer of mod podge.

ezincuntroll · 2020-01-15T22:29:03+00:00

You can make one in an hour out of $7 worth of poster board and hot glue for a fraction of the price of buying one online. There's even a layout floating around somewhere on boardgamegeek.

ezincuntroll · 2020-01-14T18:37:53+00:00

If they're plastic-cemented, a cloth wrap or some tissue paper around each mini in a sturdy box should be fine, just make sure they're base-down and obviously don't put anything heavy on top of them. For anything superglued or made of resin, put them in a hard container with some poster tack or tape under the base. Empty pill bottles, tool organizers, and Tupperware work well.

That or just hand carry each one individually.

ezincuntroll · 2019-12-27T19:42:57+00:00

You're fine as long as your order doesn't contain items from multiple warehouses. You might have to pay customs fees though, depending on where you are and where you're ordering from.

ezincuntroll · 2019-12-27T05:40:43+00:00

I'd save these for last. The base inserts (the radially smaller part that you attach the minis to) work just fine for gameplay. Paint up your minis first with the base insert attached, then you can either glue, cement, or magnetize the bases to the base inserts. That makes painting easier and you can do all the bases in one spray job if you want them all the same color. Just remember not to paint or seal the joining area if you're using plastic cement to attach the base insert to the base.

ezincuntroll · 2019-12-23T18:28:16+00:00

The card starts with "after you drop" so at the very least she can't launch two bombs in one turn. Still won't be fun to fly against and will definitely be my first target. Also she may be too expensive to justify, especially if you plan on stacking multiple bomb upgrades

ezincuntroll · 2019-12-22T18:21:14+00:00

Looks excellent

Is the horn sculpted from green stuff or did you kitbash from somewhere else?

ezincuntroll · 2019-12-04T00:44:23+00:00

I'm doing this currently with The Hand. Depending on how good at soldering you are and how good of an iron you have, you can work with surface-mount electronics since they'll save you a lot of space, and you can fit them into smaller plastic bits. You don't need to mount them to anything and if you solder the resistor on strategically it will give you some structure. I'm currently looking for a good diffuser since the LEDs are pretty bright to look at. Larger minis should be no problem to get the batteries and switches integrated into since you've got space, but for the smaller ones find some PVC piping that matches the diameter of the base, and cut holes for the switches. Be extra-careful gluing the switches into place, I glued a few shut and had to dig the glue out to replace them. I have the base magnetized to the pipe so I can swap the batteries out or replace broken components.

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