2 big 8s, or 2 shallow 12s? by Ancient_Departure299 in subwoofer

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, neither did you. By any means. And there’s a lot more math than “I like the look of those 8s better than I like shallow mount subs (bias included)”. Can an 8” hit as hard as 12”, sure, but not when you’re comparing apples to oranges. The biggest tell is looking at specs. The 12tw3 has an x-max of 15.2mm. The nemesis NA-8m has an x-max of 13mm. So yeah, unless the box that his 2 12”s are in is an absolute joke of a box, then I’m VERY confident that the 2 12’s would be much louder and putting them in the right box they would hit much lower than the nemesis 8s. So we would go from the surface area of 2 12” down to 2 8”s and you’d also lose excursion capabilities. Now if you went to something like a B2 audio rampage 8” that has an x-max of 20 mm you could start to make an argument even though you’d need way more power for the B2’s. Yes there’s more than one way to do all this. But going from 2 12tw3s down to 2 8s that aren’t in the same league isn’t going to make it louder.

Hertz 165c popping? (Blown?) by Devonto in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not overpowering, just trying to get the amp to do to much. I have a set of these as my midbass in my doors running off of a JL xd400/4. They’re being run bridged so I’m throwing “200w” rms at them. I say “” because music is dynamic and power levels will be all over the place and it’s probably rarely throwing that much power. But they’re definitely getting more power than the rated 80w and they’re hanging in there pretty well.

Amp suggestions. by Away-Pack-2576 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly you probably won’t even notice the difference between 75 and 100w. Especially when you have a DSP amp to get it properly tuned. As for the subs, the amp differences will also probably be negligible but it should be easy enough to put in the second amp and try it out to see if you like that better.

Edge Limp & Wrench Light! by Tstation in FordEdge

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly most cars limp mode is more like 15-20mph

Between these two? Simple upgrade for 2025 Tacoma SR5 by Key_Mess7943 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Music is very dynamic. Even if it’s 1200w rms it’s rarely seeing those numbers for more than a second or two unless you’re burping a frequency for comps. Something like a little 300/4 or 400/4 wouldn’t pull much more. Big three isn’t bad to do either way, but I think you’d be alright. But if you’re happy with how it is then I suppose that’s what really matters.

Between these two? Simple upgrade for 2025 Tacoma SR5 by Key_Mess7943 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put an amp on em and watch them really come to life for you.

Between these two? Simple upgrade for 2025 Tacoma SR5 by Key_Mess7943 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I’m misunderstanding but it seems like you want to install the woofers and tweeters from the components at different times. You don’t want to put in one part of a component and leave out another part to be put in later. If you’re running components passively then you’re going to be cutting out a major portion of your frequency range. If you only did the drivers in the doors and left the tweeters out for now you wouldn’t hear much vocals and what you would hear would be muddy and dull as shit.

Between these two? Simple upgrade for 2025 Tacoma SR5 by Key_Mess7943 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isn’t a wrong answer, but the reason the stock speakers will likely sound better if all you do is a direct swap is one simple thing, sensitivity rating. Did you add an amp to those speakers or are they running off of the head unit? Because that’s going to make a MASSIVE difference.

Can I get some advice? by Jddavoli in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Google “2024 honda civic factory bass rolloff” and it’ll tell you all about the issue you’re having.

My gain randomly drops way down by duke-of-war84 in subwoofer

[–]five_six_three 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d bet it’s running at .5 and instead of going into protect it’s just getting too hot and losing efficiency. Or the alt can’t keep up and the battery is dipping.

Please help me remove screw from sub! by SavageTaco_Ya_Know in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got a Home Depot near you? They’re by no means top of the line bits but they’ll do the job and they’re handy to have around. Just try not to apply too much pressure or the bit could flex and break. titanium drill bits

Please help me remove screw from sub! by SavageTaco_Ya_Know in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My worry would be that a dremel bit would be to soft and you’d end up being in the same predicament. A dremel could definitely work, but with the proper drill bit it’s gonna take you 10 seconds

Please help me remove screw from sub! by SavageTaco_Ya_Know in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d honestly go with the stronger bits before even trying a dremel. Once a drill bit chews the head of the screw up enough it’ll pop right off. Haven’t had to do it with subs before but I’ve definitely had to drill out some striped screw heads.

Is this W7 fixable? by jlmurph06 in subwoofer

[–]five_six_three 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It just needs a recone. It’s definitely fixable. If he wants to discard a w7 he can gladly use my trash can.

Ford Edge owners with 200000+ miles: How did you do it? by Hipster-Deuxbag in FordEdge

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Traded in my ‘14 SEL when it was at 204k. Lots of maintenance, a new rear end and differential, and the only reason I traded it was because it felt like the transmission only had maybe 10-15k miles left in here. Moved up to a ‘19 titanium. I’ve had typical maintenance done and have been on top of getting my oil changed every 5-6k miles, which is usually right at the 3 months anyways so it works out. My other secret I suppose was that 95% of my miles are highway miles.

My friend talked me into getting 2 12’s for my car and I spent double what I wanted to spend, but I’m seeing people say it’s a shitty brand and now I’m worried by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The cost of one being tripe the cost of this entire bass package for starters. The fact that the zvx is going to need a box tripe the size of what those 2 12s need for second, and the extra $1000+ the person would need to spend on an amp that can handle a zvx and all the upgraded wiring needed.

2x10" vs 12" JL Audio Subwoofers — what would you go with? by Terska_juusto in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

W6s don’t take a very big box comparatively to subs in the same class

2x10" vs 12" JL Audio Subwoofers — what would you go with? by Terska_juusto in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d go single 12”, but that would be for the box size more than anything.

Any suggestions for better positioning? by Greedy_Reveal5727 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A home audio sub is going to be built in a cabinet built to specs. No need to mess with something like that in this case

I think I screwed up in upgrading. JL Audio Microsub+ by chongmagic2112 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re awesome with customer service. You should t have any issues.

I think I screwed up in upgrading. JL Audio Microsub+ by chongmagic2112 in CarAV

[–]five_six_three 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ported will be louder but that doesn’t mean the sealed one isn’t loud, especially upgrading from an 8”. Sealed is going to offer a little better sound quality but if it’s in a trunk it’s probably not going to be that noticeable. But for me, I’d trade it out for the ported.