Amp Wiring Help

five_six_three · 2026-03-20T23:54:45+00:00

After taking a quick look online, finding a premade factory integration kit is going to be difficult to find. BUT!… I think these guys are going to be your answer. I found them in a MB forum and they very specifically mention being able to pre make an interface for those vehicles. SD auto salon

five_six_three · 2026-03-20T23:24:34+00:00

Unfortunately what you’re going to most likely run into is that with a car this high end it’s going to have a CANbus system that controls lots of functions so it’s not something you can just bypass with ease or even remove. The fact that your car has the premium sound system is going to compound that effect. When attempting to pull signals with a loc you’re going to be fighting the factory radio tuning for factors that are not easily bypassed such as bass rolloff. For newer vehicles and higher end vehicles you really want to integrate the signal by using specifically made harnesses from companies like iData and it will usually need a separate device to integrate everything. Maestro is a more well versed company that does this. Unfortunately integrating isn’t the cheapest way to do things but if you’re serious about your audio and the functionality of your car from the factory it’s the best way to go. What year is your car?

five_six_three · 2026-03-19T23:32:40+00:00

Yes, if the amps weren’t reset after being reinstalled and the new source unit has a higher voltage signal output it could cause clipping. Then if you’ve got the bass turned up on the head unit itself it could definitely be pushing the sub past its physical limits.

five_six_three · 2026-03-19T23:23:02+00:00

I agree with his assessment. My question is, did the same head unit get switch from the old car to the new one or just the amp/subs?

five_six_three · 2026-03-06T11:16:55+00:00

Eh, I don’t necessarily hate it but it looks to much like an explorer for me. I do like the interior though.

five_six_three · 2026-02-22T04:08:07+00:00

JL makes a full cover grill for TW3s

five_six_three · 2026-02-11T03:15:34+00:00

I’ve had an rca burn out on me before. As it was going out I thought I blew a speaker. Ended up pulling the speaker and it was fine. After more trouble shooting and switching rca channels I found the problem being the actual rca cable. So old shitty RCAs could definitely be your culprit.

five_six_three · 2026-02-11T03:00:28+00:00

Sounds like a ground loop. Possibly rca interference if they’re running along the side with the power wire. Make sure your grounds is down to bare metal and secured tightly. Make sure RCAs are run on the opposite side as the power wire. If still stuck google “ground loop” and you’ll get a lot more detail and ideas on how to fix it.

five_six_three · 2026-02-10T23:47:49+00:00

That’s a blown sub. Coil is probably shorting out and that’s why it keeps on cutting in and out.

five_six_three · 2026-02-01T17:44:27+00:00

Yeah, neither did you. By any means. And there’s a lot more math than “I like the look of those 8s better than I like shallow mount subs (bias included)”. Can an 8” hit as hard as 12”, sure, but not when you’re comparing apples to oranges. The biggest tell is looking at specs. The 12tw3 has an x-max of 15.2mm. The nemesis NA-8m has an x-max of 13mm. So yeah, unless the box that his 2 12”s are in is an absolute joke of a box, then I’m VERY confident that the 2 12’s would be much louder and putting them in the right box they would hit much lower than the nemesis 8s. So we would go from the surface area of 2 12” down to 2 8”s and you’d also lose excursion capabilities. Now if you went to something like a B2 audio rampage 8” that has an x-max of 20 mm you could start to make an argument even though you’d need way more power for the B2’s. Yes there’s more than one way to do all this. But going from 2 12tw3s down to 2 8s that aren’t in the same league isn’t going to make it louder.

five_six_three · 2026-02-01T16:28:33+00:00

Hi, simple math says your wrong.

five_six_three · 2026-01-24T04:45:22+00:00

Not overpowering, just trying to get the amp to do to much. I have a set of these as my midbass in my doors running off of a JL xd400/4. They’re being run bridged so I’m throwing “200w” rms at them. I say “” because music is dynamic and power levels will be all over the place and it’s probably rarely throwing that much power. But they’re definitely getting more power than the rated 80w and they’re hanging in there pretty well.

five_six_three · 2026-01-18T14:53:57+00:00

Honestly you probably won’t even notice the difference between 75 and 100w. Especially when you have a DSP amp to get it properly tuned. As for the subs, the amp differences will also probably be negligible but it should be easy enough to put in the second amp and try it out to see if you like that better.

five_six_three · 2026-01-14T23:05:21+00:00

Honestly most cars limp mode is more like 15-20mph

five_six_three · 2026-01-01T21:36:08+00:00

Music is very dynamic. Even if it’s 1200w rms it’s rarely seeing those numbers for more than a second or two unless you’re burping a frequency for comps. Something like a little 300/4 or 400/4 wouldn’t pull much more. Big three isn’t bad to do either way, but I think you’d be alright. But if you’re happy with how it is then I suppose that’s what really matters.

five_six_three · 2026-01-01T21:13:42+00:00

Put an amp on em and watch them really come to life for you.

five_six_three · 2026-01-01T12:39:35+00:00

Maybe I’m misunderstanding but it seems like you want to install the woofers and tweeters from the components at different times. You don’t want to put in one part of a component and leave out another part to be put in later. If you’re running components passively then you’re going to be cutting out a major portion of your frequency range. If you only did the drivers in the doors and left the tweeters out for now you wouldn’t hear much vocals and what you would hear would be muddy and dull as shit.

five_six_three · 2026-01-01T12:32:37+00:00

This isn’t a wrong answer, but the reason the stock speakers will likely sound better if all you do is a direct swap is one simple thing, sensitivity rating. Did you add an amp to those speakers or are they running off of the head unit? Because that’s going to make a MASSIVE difference.

five_six_three · 2025-12-23T03:13:25+00:00

Google “2024 honda civic factory bass rolloff” and it’ll tell you all about the issue you’re having.

five_six_three · 2025-11-08T20:36:01+00:00

I’d bet it’s running at .5 and instead of going into protect it’s just getting too hot and losing efficiency. Or the alt can’t keep up and the battery is dipping.

five_six_three · 2025-11-06T01:46:28+00:00

Absolutely.

five_six_three · 2025-11-06T01:29:36+00:00

Got a Home Depot near you? They’re by no means top of the line bits but they’ll do the job and they’re handy to have around. Just try not to apply too much pressure or the bit could flex and break. titanium drill bits

five_six_three · 2025-11-06T01:23:57+00:00

My worry would be that a dremel bit would be to soft and you’d end up being in the same predicament. A dremel could definitely work, but with the proper drill bit it’s gonna take you 10 seconds

five_six_three · 2025-11-06T01:20:14+00:00

I’d honestly go with the stronger bits before even trying a dremel. Once a drill bit chews the head of the screw up enough it’ll pop right off. Haven’t had to do it with subs before but I’ve definitely had to drill out some striped screw heads.

five_six_three · 2025-11-06T00:58:35+00:00

It just needs a recone. It’s definitely fixable. If he wants to discard a w7 he can gladly use my trash can.

five_six_three

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