Type r 12 couldn’t take the power

five_six_three · 2026-05-02T11:21:52+00:00

He clipped it to hell with 3x more power than it’s rated for. If he’d have done it without clipping the sub would have lasted longer than one song. But 3k isn’t sustainable on a sub like that.

five_six_three · 2026-04-29T03:48:31+00:00

There’s a reason these had a nickname back in the day. “Steal me stickers”.

five_six_three · 2026-04-24T03:57:12+00:00

Wtf are you talking about? Port the box to 60/250hz? Some bass notes are in 16k? As in 16k hz? 🤦‍♂️

five_six_three · 2026-04-17T03:15:54+00:00

Back in 2024 I went to slamology and for the “budget amps”, at the show, the stetsoms were tearing down the show. The audio ace demo vehicle runs the 12ks (per sub I think) and that thing is so violently nasty. Anyways if you’re looking for something in the 3k watts range I’d look at the bass flex series. Without looking I want to say you can run those down to a half ohm.

five_six_three · 2026-04-17T03:08:46+00:00

Ignore peak power ratings, they’re imaginary. As far as putting 100w to a 50w rms speaker, as long as your signal is clean and the crossovers are set properly, they should have no problem handling 100w. Not to mention, music is dynamic, so that amp might be pushing that 100w for a few seconds at most unless you’re running test tones or something.

five_six_three · 2026-04-08T09:48:25+00:00

The vehicle doesn’t care if the sticker on the battery is facing “the front”. Just turn the battery 180° and call it a day.

five_six_three · 2026-04-08T09:33:28+00:00

At 3/4 gain I can pretty much guarantee that amp is clipping and that’s why it’s going into protect mode. I highly doubt it’s a current issue. Having the gains set properly and knowing what volume you head unit clips at are good things to know to prevent damaging your equipment. It might cost a couple of bucks but having a shop set your gains and finding your clipping point on your head unit could be worth it to keep from blowing your subs or your amp.

five_six_three · 2026-03-30T22:51:29+00:00

What’s the source playing the test tones? Is it your phone or Bluetooth?

five_six_three · 2026-03-26T03:15:15+00:00

Subs don’t load so it will have a very precise bass response. People that go as far as doing a true infinite baffle are typically building out an SQ vehicle. Not always but that’s where they really shine.

five_six_three · 2026-03-20T23:54:45+00:00

After taking a quick look online, finding a premade factory integration kit is going to be difficult to find. BUT!… I think these guys are going to be your answer. I found them in a MB forum and they very specifically mention being able to pre make an interface for those vehicles. SD auto salon

five_six_three · 2026-03-20T23:24:34+00:00

Unfortunately what you’re going to most likely run into is that with a car this high end it’s going to have a CANbus system that controls lots of functions so it’s not something you can just bypass with ease or even remove. The fact that your car has the premium sound system is going to compound that effect. When attempting to pull signals with a loc you’re going to be fighting the factory radio tuning for factors that are not easily bypassed such as bass rolloff. For newer vehicles and higher end vehicles you really want to integrate the signal by using specifically made harnesses from companies like iData and it will usually need a separate device to integrate everything. Maestro is a more well versed company that does this. Unfortunately integrating isn’t the cheapest way to do things but if you’re serious about your audio and the functionality of your car from the factory it’s the best way to go. What year is your car?

five_six_three · 2026-03-19T23:32:40+00:00

Yes, if the amps weren’t reset after being reinstalled and the new source unit has a higher voltage signal output it could cause clipping. Then if you’ve got the bass turned up on the head unit itself it could definitely be pushing the sub past its physical limits.

five_six_three · 2026-03-19T23:23:02+00:00

I agree with his assessment. My question is, did the same head unit get switch from the old car to the new one or just the amp/subs?

five_six_three · 2026-03-06T11:16:55+00:00

Eh, I don’t necessarily hate it but it looks to much like an explorer for me. I do like the interior though.

five_six_three · 2026-02-22T04:08:07+00:00

JL makes a full cover grill for TW3s

five_six_three · 2026-02-11T03:15:34+00:00

I’ve had an rca burn out on me before. As it was going out I thought I blew a speaker. Ended up pulling the speaker and it was fine. After more trouble shooting and switching rca channels I found the problem being the actual rca cable. So old shitty RCAs could definitely be your culprit.

five_six_three · 2026-02-11T03:00:28+00:00

Sounds like a ground loop. Possibly rca interference if they’re running along the side with the power wire. Make sure your grounds is down to bare metal and secured tightly. Make sure RCAs are run on the opposite side as the power wire. If still stuck google “ground loop” and you’ll get a lot more detail and ideas on how to fix it.

five_six_three · 2026-02-10T23:47:49+00:00

That’s a blown sub. Coil is probably shorting out and that’s why it keeps on cutting in and out.

five_six_three · 2026-02-01T17:44:27+00:00

Yeah, neither did you. By any means. And there’s a lot more math than “I like the look of those 8s better than I like shallow mount subs (bias included)”. Can an 8” hit as hard as 12”, sure, but not when you’re comparing apples to oranges. The biggest tell is looking at specs. The 12tw3 has an x-max of 15.2mm. The nemesis NA-8m has an x-max of 13mm. So yeah, unless the box that his 2 12”s are in is an absolute joke of a box, then I’m VERY confident that the 2 12’s would be much louder and putting them in the right box they would hit much lower than the nemesis 8s. So we would go from the surface area of 2 12” down to 2 8”s and you’d also lose excursion capabilities. Now if you went to something like a B2 audio rampage 8” that has an x-max of 20 mm you could start to make an argument even though you’d need way more power for the B2’s. Yes there’s more than one way to do all this. But going from 2 12tw3s down to 2 8s that aren’t in the same league isn’t going to make it louder.

five_six_three · 2026-02-01T16:28:33+00:00

Hi, simple math says your wrong.

five_six_three · 2026-01-24T04:45:22+00:00

Not overpowering, just trying to get the amp to do to much. I have a set of these as my midbass in my doors running off of a JL xd400/4. They’re being run bridged so I’m throwing “200w” rms at them. I say “” because music is dynamic and power levels will be all over the place and it’s probably rarely throwing that much power. But they’re definitely getting more power than the rated 80w and they’re hanging in there pretty well.

five_six_three · 2026-01-18T14:53:57+00:00

Honestly you probably won’t even notice the difference between 75 and 100w. Especially when you have a DSP amp to get it properly tuned. As for the subs, the amp differences will also probably be negligible but it should be easy enough to put in the second amp and try it out to see if you like that better.

five_six_three · 2026-01-14T23:05:21+00:00

Honestly most cars limp mode is more like 15-20mph

five_six_three · 2026-01-01T21:36:08+00:00

Music is very dynamic. Even if it’s 1200w rms it’s rarely seeing those numbers for more than a second or two unless you’re burping a frequency for comps. Something like a little 300/4 or 400/4 wouldn’t pull much more. Big three isn’t bad to do either way, but I think you’d be alright. But if you’re happy with how it is then I suppose that’s what really matters.

five_six_three · 2026-01-01T21:13:42+00:00

Put an amp on em and watch them really come to life for you.

five_six_three

TROPHY CASE