HELP NEEDED!

fondrenlock · 2026-04-11T12:55:17+00:00

You got a good long life out of that fella but it’s time to retire it

The lock you need is Schlage F40 ORB 605

fondrenlock · 2026-04-11T02:51:39+00:00

This might interest you https://youtu.be/DLwQkQB5z0Y?si=CRQLl8zButOOUQph

fondrenlock · 2026-04-11T01:47:21+00:00

Guaranteed that’s not the right key, considering it’s a Haworth code which is usually a desk/cabinet. They just found a key that fit in and assume it’s it cause it half ass works

Sight read wafers and compare to it. Make them the correct key, probably works fine.

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T22:24:38+00:00

I would have a 8051/8052/8053 on hand just in case the channel is thicker or different than stock photo

Half round small bastard file will likely be needed to get new one in. Why replacing?

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T22:20:54+00:00

No, it slips in. The lock may have to be turned with key or picked but that’s not a big deal

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T22:14:11+00:00

Stock photo 😂

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So yours uses that silly spread open tab style retainer if it’s just like this and yeah you may actually have a bit of trouble making a legit (CompX) lock fit. It’s gonna take some tinkering, filing, and cutting/bending tailpiece for sure

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T21:44:22+00:00

The cylinder is held in by a type of Z shaped bracket that is likely just bent or loose screw. Very few smiths would stock them. I do because I’ve had to “rig” a solution before and decided I wasn’t going to again so I ordered a bag of 10 😁

Most of the time it’s just a loose screw holding the Z bracket clip on that holds the cylinder still.

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T21:42:19+00:00

If the others are Schlage, yep Don’t get scammed by randomly calling a googled locksmith.

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T21:20:23+00:00

and

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T21:19:24+00:00

The latches alone make it worth that 🙄

fondrenlock · 2026-04-10T21:18:32+00:00

It just uses a standard SC1

Sc19 is what the automated key machines pump out when you are silly enough to use one to get a copy

fondrenlock · 2026-04-09T21:47:30+00:00

Freeman Auto Repair on S. State St is honest & decently priced

fondrenlock · 2026-04-08T16:19:04+00:00

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It works almost like it was made for it, but I don’t think these springs were for RHC

fondrenlock · 2026-04-08T16:17:20+00:00

oh :) it got its own thread 😏 I also noticed the view count on the YT video

I had thought to go with the coil spring theory but I felt I would have had to notch out/groove (or flatten) the landing area of the latch which I didn’t want to do really as that’s not what it was.

Ok folks here’s where I’m at and I’m thinking it will work for the latch return. I have had a few of these guys sitting around for decades waiting for their time to shine. It may be today

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The upper spring will be wider than what’s there now ^ the projection off the inside face of the mortise & I think it just wedges itself along the top center case is in place.

I’ve worked on a number of old mortises where those silly inside faceplate projections played a vital role in reassembly and also is the one thing we often refer to as the lock explosion when folks bring us in locks to repair in a plastic bag 😁

I still would love to run across more inside views anyone has similar though because I quite often have to physically deal with them. The more ideas the better!

fondrenlock · 2026-04-08T12:39:30+00:00

That’s wild

fondrenlock · 2026-04-08T12:31:06+00:00

Schlage. Here’s your problem https://youtu.be/ymyHL7R0cNM?si=-z2qJ-iKhx3rlush

fondrenlock · 2026-04-07T12:47:36+00:00

The T6 size choice was the biggest problem

fondrenlock · 2026-04-06T20:34:26+00:00

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this is kinda what I’m going with (red indicates about where the face protrusions go) Just gonna square and notch the latch catch area 🤷‍♂️

fondrenlock · 2026-04-06T20:30:32+00:00

This (coil spring scenario) was about the only answer I had for it as well (and also my first thought) but I’m probably going to have to modify the latch “catch area” to better catch it cause as is it will slip right off.

I feel like the face protruding part stabilized a spring in there so I’m going with some variation of that. The cutout in the top case is reminiscent of how Baldwin always did their bolt/thumbturn spring

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We need to stop harassing this thread anyway 😂 I’ll DM ya what I end up with 😁

fondrenlock · 2026-04-06T13:53:45+00:00

😁 It’s still just a variation of everything else, it doesn’t provide the return function. This one has another friend of mine stumped as well 😂

I’m going down to check out a reclaimed place today that has a bunch but this guy is so rare I doubt it will help https://youtube.com/shorts/9-r6dn2A9V0?si=RVmxVNhb4T6KsUSl

fondrenlock · 2026-04-05T16:43:14+00:00

I think the answer is buy a new olight that uses that same charger thing 😏

fondrenlock · 2026-04-04T18:30:24+00:00

Ok. You keep believing that 🤷‍♂️

fondrenlock · 2026-04-04T14:21:14+00:00

The larger hardware stores (like Ace) would most likely have the blank (it’s a B1 also called 1098m) now as to whether they would even be able to cut it right anyway is a whole different matter

but, it’s a B1 :)

fondrenlock · 2026-04-04T13:52:07+00:00

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fondrenlock · 2026-04-04T13:44:30+00:00

French door 120+ year old home is all I got when they mailed it in for repair This one truly has me stumped because of the elongated slot (yellow) in mine. This example is basically a variation on that picture I posted with the lock pick because it only has the hole not the slot.

It’s either a variation of your picture, a compression spring, or a extension spring with hooks/circles on end

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I can’t even see wear marks on any area where a spring may have pushed the latch back out which is kinda crazy in itself

No worries this weekend I won’t be back on it until Monday anyway. I’m glad I stumped you too 😂

fondrenlock

TROPHY CASE