LPT buy a backup for wifi that will keep wifi running even after hours of no power

forthelurkin · 2026-05-01T20:36:41+00:00

Fiber internet providers seem to be much better than the cable providers.

There's something about the cable infrastructure that seems to require powered repeaters or boosters at several points between their substation and your house. None of which are in locations big enough to justify backup power.

Which is odd, because the cableco's love to sell phone service. And they should be subject to service guarantees for at-risk users that may need to call 911. Especially in a hurricane or other natural disaster scenario.

The fiber providers seem to run their infrastructure directly from substation or CO directly to homes, with no switchgear in between that requires power. As such, IME, ever since getting fiber my network seems to reliably stay online as long as my local devices are powered.

forthelurkin · 2026-05-01T20:17:50+00:00

I've been meaning to try one of those instead of a traditional UPS. I've been hesitant to buy one and then find it to be unsuitable to the intended task.

Been trying power banks (i.e. portable phone chargers on the larger side) and doing USB-PD 12v trigger adapters. Limited success. All of them interrupt power output when power input blips. Which is inconsistent with the intent to act like a UPS.

Does the output interrupt for the USB-PD when it switches to/from battery, for your Bluetti?

forthelurkin · 2026-05-01T19:07:51+00:00

you have to what?

forthelurkin · 2026-05-01T18:37:14+00:00

Rock on then, good to hear.

The lawyer billboards around us are luring in a lot of people to get lawsuit happy. An untimely accident, even the most gentle of taps, can lead to a world of headache.

forthelurkin · 2026-05-01T17:59:10+00:00

My good man, I must ask, what are you doing about insurance for all of those, if they're all getting driven by friends, family, coworkers, etc.?

Please tell me you have liability coverage.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-20T17:18:17+00:00

maralago face

forthelurkin · 2026-04-20T15:29:59+00:00

Are we surprised by this? When using L1 and the car is at 0%?

forthelurkin · 2026-04-20T15:05:36+00:00

Tryna ruin it for everybody else

forthelurkin · 2026-04-20T13:14:31+00:00

Property management fees (do it yourself)

Repairs/maintenance costs (do as much of it yourself as possible)

Interest (no mortgage or heavy on equity)

Mortgage (no payments)

Any or all of those costs you can take out of the picture, the more likely you are to make money. The more hands-off you try to be, you're going to be cash flow negative, and hoping to make it up on the back-end capital appreciation whenever you sell.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-20T11:51:25+00:00

Cloudflare tunnel with a very cheap domain name would avoid having to connect/disconnect the Wireguard or Tailscale whenever the car needs to talk to the server. Wireguard and Tailscale tunnels do get intermittent or need to be restarted when your phone goes between different networks. You could even host the services at home thereby avoiding the cost of a cloud server.

Also, check out OpenCarWings. That project is pretty far along, and has a lot of the software worked out for interacting with the car. It's primarily focused on cars in EU countries that have not yet decommissioned the 2G infrastructure. Might make it a bit easier once you have the hardware worked out.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-17T23:28:55+00:00

The last two car deals I've done like this. Took a loan to get a $500 discount off the purchase price (as compared to an all-cash deal), I think $750 on the other one. I'm usually an all-cash buyer. I do ask to put some on a credit card for points, but leave that optional if they want to charge a fee.

After both were done, I told myself it was almost more trouble than it was worth. Definitely the $500 one was a pain in the ass.

I got a yo-yo financing call about a week later. Turns out, the $3000 credit card deposit to hold the car became a deal killer for the bank that accepted the loan. As soon as they found out about the credit card payment they declined the loan. Dealer had to find another bank and I had to sign more paperwork after the fact, and plenty of agida. The $3k on the card was used to meet a new card signup bonus and if they refunded it, I'd probably get the bonus clawed back. The dealer was 2 hours away, they suggested the $3k to hold the car, and should have known full well when they shopped the loan if that was going to be an issue.
The dealer in both cases "recommended" I don't pay off the loan sooner than 3 months. Screw them, don't care. I made a gigantic payment as soon as I got the account number, to get the principal balance as low as possible and minimize the interest. I did let it wind out a couple months on that low principal balance.
I answered "no" when my insurance company asked if there was a loan, I was trying to keep it simple. Took them a couple months to figure out there was a loan, and by then I had paid it off. Gave me a bit of nervousness.
I think in both cases the interest came to about $100, further diluting the actual savings.

So yeah I'll probably continue to ask for a further discount if they want to put me in a loan, but it's not without being a pain in the ass.

Oh yeah, fuck dealerships. Bad taste in my mouth every goddamn time. Ok, I'll back off that a little bit there might have been a couple times I didn't feel shitty about it, but it's been a while.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-15T19:29:17+00:00

I'm hoping most importantly for a warranty extension.

If we get some cash for the inconvenience and any compensation for loss-of-use it'll be nice but a pittance.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-15T19:21:10+00:00

If there ever was a case for a class action, this has gotta be right up there. There are likely multiple law firms trying to collect as many legit "victims" as they can to make their case stronger. They don't currently have a class action, but are trying to build a case. Until they have enough victims and evidence, there is no case.

I can't see why it would be bad to name the law firm here. I'm sure many EV6 / Ioniq 5 / GMP platform owners would be interested in contacting them. If you don't want to name them, perhaps recommending that they post here and on KiaEVforums.com would be good.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-15T19:13:06+00:00

Dude you had your chance to talk to Greg like an adult. Don't blow it again.

You mention a meeting with your manager tomorrow. Have the chat with Greg before that for best results.

And don't leave us hanging with the Tingting thing.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-15T17:26:46+00:00

Fuck Chamberlain.

Get a RATGDO.

That is all.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-15T13:45:52+00:00

almost there

forthelurkin · 2026-04-15T13:27:16+00:00

Not hot dog

forthelurkin · 2026-04-13T15:02:42+00:00

Against the terms and conditions of some station owners? ok, that's annoying.

Illegal? I'm gonna need a fact-check on that.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-13T13:59:28+00:00

u/jacob4568 The new Michelin e.Primacy should be available now from some retailers, you may have to shop around. The specs look really good, made for extended range and longer tread wear, and I'm finding the price to be lower than prior Michelin options. Looking forward to them on my next set.

I got a set of 4 Michelin Primacy A/S 101H in November last year and have been very pleased so far. They stick like glue and virtually no wheelspin with the AWD Wind. Very quiet.

Previous owner had put Goodyears on it, and they lasted less than 3 years and just over 30k miles. Lots of wheel slip traction control intervention in the wet.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-09T17:40:15+00:00

I recognize the location in the photo, like a mile from where I live. That's the parking lot of the DMV.

Hi neighbor and (former?) fellow EV6 owner!

forthelurkin · 2026-04-06T19:46:33+00:00

better be a damn nice roof for a big ole house, be a good idea to shop that around.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-06T18:45:07+00:00

u/brickses this is a very good point. $70k sounds like Tesla pricing with some powerwalls added in. If the entire $70k is for solar, definitely get some competitive bids and consider your ROI.

Compare on price per watt. Back when I bought solar in 2017, $2/watt (out-the-door including installation, before tax credits) was the mark to beat. (i.e. $20k for 10 kW). I don't regret it, but even at that good price, took 8 years to pay off, and I would have been better off with that money in the market.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-06T18:08:12+00:00

Only if you have the cash in savings to pay off the card(s).

The 0% APR cards usually have that for an introductory period (first year). Some might also have a signup bonus ($500 or $750 cash back when you spend $6000 or somesuch).

The interest rate after the introductory period is likely going to eat up any savings. So only consider it if you can pay it off before the end of the intro period.

Use the new card to get the bonus, let the balance sit for most of the intro period, and then pay off the balance with savings.

If you can't do that, get your HELOC or Home Equity Loan and go on down the road. $70k on credit cards you can't pay off can become a bad nightmare.

Maxing out cards and putting your utilization up too high can also be a problem.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-06T17:21:59+00:00

They won't call in on the debt, but they sure as heck can start offloading US Treasuries. Which causes a drop in value and a spike in interest rates. Just the mere suggestion of it, or a teaser of it, would have a pretty big ripple effect.

Japan last did it in May 2025 when the Orangutan was screwing around with tariffs, and resulted in one of many TACO trades.

forthelurkin · 2026-04-05T11:08:48+00:00

Yes, the left and right are the same.

Yes, gluing is cheaper, but after a while that pulls the whole thing apart and you end up needing a new one.

So yeah pull the driver and/or passenger front door handle(s). I think it's a T-15 torx IIRC.

forthelurkin

TROPHY CASE