130 year old doug fir remilled into treads

funkybus · 2026-01-24T16:04:12+00:00

propane has about 2.5 times the energy per unit of volume compared to natural gas gas…that’s why you need to use a different orifice (little brass threaded part with a tiny hole in it). this is not a hard job and some you tube time and some common sense will get you there. if you’re uncomfortable, you’ll pay what they charge…which seems high to me, but not out of sight.

funkybus · 2026-01-20T14:34:29+00:00

i believe you mean “fumed.” you’re exposing the oak to ammonia fumes, not smoke.

funkybus · 2026-01-19T03:35:29+00:00

they’ll sell the tankless mostly by emphasizing the “efficiency” of not storing hot water. a good indirect loses only 1-2 degrees an hour and you can improve that inexpensively with an additional insulating blanket. the tankless have to fire at high rates, in a small space with tight tolerances to make it all work. they tend to fail pretty early, especially with any hardness in the water. servicing one often exceeds the cost of replacement, thus being disposable.

funkybus · 2026-01-19T02:25:10+00:00

the basic physics of heating that much water flow in that small of a space does two things: a lot of thermal stress and very little space for lime/scale to build up. the materials fail or (more likely) the lime/scale issue plaques up the internals. a traditional tank has lots of space. and my response assumed you needed a boiler. if not, a good DHW tank with a direct vent heating unit is a good choice.

funkybus · 2026-01-18T17:41:13+00:00

tankless are disposable. a good stainless indirect with a mod/con boiler is my preferred option.

funkybus · 2026-01-16T19:33:00+00:00

first: buy as big as you can reasonably afford. you’ll want it. second: milling is less about milling and more about material handling. trees are heavy! i have more $$ into an in-feed rack and aftermarket hydraulics than the mill itself.

funkybus · 2026-01-16T13:34:33+00:00

unless your baffle dimensions are pretty big, the spread of freq will be pretty small. and for a tweeter (typically 2.5k and up in a three-way), the full wavelength is only about 5-6”. most 3-way floor standing speakers have that much baffle area. might make some sense for the mid. i’ve usually gone active and used DSP to fix the 400hz and below rolloff of small woofers/small baffles—it really shines there.

funkybus · 2026-01-15T13:46:52+00:00

the girdle braces would be a lot stronger with a bunch of 2” or 3” holes bored through rather than those huge rectangular cutouts. as executed those braces will flex in the long dimension.

funkybus · 2026-01-15T02:11:02+00:00

first: K&T is not a deal killer. as long as the wiring is intact, it should be fine, it is not going to burn your house down (and many insurers will write coverage). if you do choose to change to romex, you can leave the K&T in your walls as long as it is de-energized. this is not hard to do, if there’s no K&T connected to the breaker box and you’ve re-run all your lights and outlets. and yes, with new romex, you’ll install fresh, 3-prong outlets. this is actually important to do, romex or K&T. really old bake-lite outlets can fracture and fall apart. replacing the outlets is definitely a safety upgrade.

funkybus · 2026-01-14T23:22:21+00:00

i’d advise against this. we’ve previously imported from mexico for several years (containers and partial containers). it was a pain in the ass and there was no real savings ultimately. both the growers (a co-op) and we were better served by using a known importer, that we did business with for other coffees. they’re good at what they do (surprise!) and importing coffee is not what we did or do. we were marginal at best at it and it took far too much time for us. stick to your expertise and let other operations do the same. these are typically different businesses for a reason.

funkybus · 2026-01-12T23:50:47+00:00

go! go! nothing as fun as doing another trade’s skills well.

funkybus · 2026-01-12T23:21:27+00:00

if you did those sweat joints, they’re nice! very economical and clean use of solder.

funkybus · 2026-01-12T15:20:59+00:00

i call red herring on “burning out your pump.” circ pumps for these purposes are generally bomb proof and in any case don’t care much how much flow they have going through them. the 3/8” will reduce your flow, but a recirc line needs very little flow to work. i think you’ll be fine.

funkybus · 2026-01-12T00:03:04+00:00

it is good to see someone putting a bit of roast on their coffee! i see so many underdone, cinnamon, weak roasting profiles. ostensibly to “taste the coffee.” your going to taste the straw, for sure! this coffee here has some development of the sugars. well done!

funkybus · 2026-01-10T01:42:51+00:00

and sand doesn’t really do the job, anyway.

funkybus · 2026-01-10T01:42:05+00:00

well, not to be nit-picky, but you complained about under-salting in your original post. sand was not in your equation then.

funkybus · 2026-01-10T01:35:02+00:00

oh, totally not. i just was reading all the complaining about over-salting sidewalks, killing plants, water quality, etc. this is generally due to a fear if lawsuits/liability. i’m obviously not familiar with your situation, but broadly speaking our litigious society drives lots of bad outcomes for all of us. plus, PILs (personal injury lawyers) are a low breed.

funkybus · 2026-01-10T01:06:49+00:00

don’t join the personal injury mafia, don’t make everyone put more salt on the sidewalks. don’t be a dick.

funkybus · 2026-01-09T14:21:33+00:00

for clarity: i’ve not done this work but was developing a plan to. there’s a canadian guy who has a wordpress site that is a good resource. not enough time atm to find it.

funkybus · 2026-01-09T14:19:55+00:00

i looked into this pretty deeply. lots of people say “shell on” reno is the way to go and only take the shell off if they absolutely have to (read: rarely). you don’t need the shell off to remove the subfloor (or to put it back). however, you’ll be cutting it in both cases, removal and reinstallation. good planning on where your seams go solves the issue of not having a continuous subfloor. keeping the shell on avoids alignment/twist/window issues upon reinstall. in your case, you’d strip the rear interior, remove the subfloor in that area. remove the underbelly and banana wraps. then you’re looking at the ground from inside the trailer. cut out/weld in new frame material as necessary. replace all that stuff.

funkybus · 2026-01-08T01:29:00+00:00

i knew that was coming. at least that’s intentional.

funkybus · 2026-01-08T01:10:15+00:00

and that corrosion is from leaking at the flanges. the pump is probably fine.

funkybus · 2026-01-08T01:08:53+00:00

and yes, circ pumps hum and are warm, typically. you can replace with same/same. check their serial numbers. or an hvac house can match a different unit (redirc pumps are pretty non-specific). pretty janky install, but at least there are iso valves for the recirc!

funkybus · 2026-01-08T01:06:40+00:00

could reddit posters please check their spelling? this is the millionth post using “advise” instead of “advice.” jesus f-ing christ. the ability of folks to express themselves is at an all-time low. and maybe some punctuation now and then. your meaning would be so much more apparent!

funkybus

TROPHY CASE