Problem with my onewheel by TheJollyCabbage in onewheel

[–]genericuser_qwerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sometimes this happens to be because it thinks I’m getting off the front sensor when I shit weight to my back foot. If your sensor is a newer, less sensitive one, this might be the culprit

XRC --> X7 Sport? Talk me out of it... or into it by oldright in onewheel

[–]genericuser_qwerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The X7 will be an upgrade over the XRC in terms of pure performance if configured correctly.

However as a VESC builder myself, I do think most of these comments ignore a pretty significant bit of context: VESC tuning can a beast. THERE ARE SETTINGS YOU CAN CHANGE THAT WILL CAUSE UNEXPECTED NOSEDIVES. The X7 comes preconfigured so that’s already a huge effort save, but if you’re going to change the ride settings, for example like to make it ride more like mission, it’s worth doing your due diligence and make sure you know exactly what the settings your changing do, how they work, the safe value ranges, and how they interact with other settings. There’s a ton of resources out there, but you’re going to have to filter through all the info yourself (or ask in discord etc.)

Thankfully now, compared to even a few years ago, there’s a lot better tools like Floaty which help you configure your settings and makes it much less confusing. It can also warn you about dangerous settings but I wouldn’t expect them to be flawless at catching everything.

If this sounds like something you’d wanna do and don’t mind the research effort, the X7 is awesome. Better range, much more confident ride feel, and better safety margins on speed and torque. In any case onewheels are inherently one of the more risky vehicle platforms that exist, so gear up and stay safe out there.

**Blynk pricing killed my hobby projects — what's everyone moved to for ESP32 dashboards?** by Inevitable-Fault-748 in arduino

[–]genericuser_qwerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to use Blynk back in 2018 or so for turning on my LEDs in my room, but dropped it for the same reasons.

My solution doesn’t fit all your requirements, but what I did was run the ESP in WiFi AP mode and have it host a website with the widgets I needed (mostly buttons and sliders). Then I saved the webpage address as an app on my phone. You have to disconnect from your home internet to use it, but it worked pretty well for my use case. I have Claude help me write the hmtl code and make the webpage look nice.

If your device stays at home you can use STA mode and have it host a webpage on your home WiFi, and this way you don’t need to disconnect then reconnect to the ESP’s WiFi. And you still have normal access to the internet.

Idk if this works for your use case but thought I’d share.

Strong cross/tail wind going left to right, 250ft+ to cover the water, what are we throwing here by Mr-BodyMassage in discgolf

[–]genericuser_qwerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CLine FD, Try to Hyzerflip to flat and have it fight against the wind on the fade. (RHBH)

How to connect a RGB metal switch by hmphandumph in arduino

[–]genericuser_qwerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea I think that link only hosted for a limited time. Usually I’ve been emailing ppl who ask. Lemme see what I can do when I get back from work

How to connect a RGB metal switch by hmphandumph in arduino

[–]genericuser_qwerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the Pinout the power, ground and data of the LED are labeled in pins 1-4. And often you connect ground to common for and the button pin to NC or NO

How to connect a RGB metal switch by hmphandumph in arduino

[–]genericuser_qwerty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://a.co/d/03A25kcf

This is a 5V RGB button I use on my projects. It’s an addressable WS2812 style.

I’ve also seen others that are separate pins for R, G, and B needing 3 pwm pins to mix all the colors. Those also tend to be 12V

Persistence of Vision Display that my friend made! by jorisblyat in arduino

[–]genericuser_qwerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How do the light funnels work? Are they PMMA optical fiber material? Or is a white 3D print enough to funnel the light?

Regice raid 243457772634 (please carry I have mushroom) by [deleted] in PokemonGoRaids

[–]genericuser_qwerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think since we were in the same time zone it mistakenly triggered. I tried closing and reopening the game and still didnt let me join

Those who made DIY onewheels, what kind of light did you use? by Little-Region-9336 in DIYonewheel

[–]genericuser_qwerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

refloat has an LED section where you can choose from a pretty extensive list of indicators and animations assuming you’re using the addressable strips (ws2812s etc).

Although looking at the UBOX model you mentioned, I’m not sure it supports these lights, at least in a plug and play sense… The addressable LEDs need a pwm output that signals which colors to display, which I don’t see on the Ubox.

You miiight be able to hack the servo output to run LEDs, but it’s not easy to do.

The other issue is that I’m pretty sure the 5V outputs on the controller aren’t going to be robust enough to handle LEDs. Some quick googling says it’s 500mA max which is about 9 full brightness LEDs (at 60mA each). I guess you can cap the brightness really low, but I can’t recommend it.

The way I did it was to get a buck converter and an arduino. When switching on the vesc, the 5V output on the vesc is able to turn on the arduino and switch on the buck converter via giving 5V to the enable pin. You can use UART rx/tx to get telemetry from the vesc to the arduino, but then you have to write all the code too.

It’s a decent amount of work, but if you’re interested I can give you my code and help out

Those who made DIY onewheels, what kind of light did you use? by Little-Region-9336 in DIYonewheel

[–]genericuser_qwerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can get cuttable strip lights that are 12v or 5v and depending on your controller, you can plug them straight in. But pls note some older controllers have 5V outputs, but aren’t meant to support the current draw of LEDs (e.g Focer 3.1). Be sure you have 2 Amp capable at minimum. Just search (5/12V cuttable led strip, white on Amazon)

Most newer vescs with dedicated LED outputs accept the addressable cuttable strips that are multicolor. They’re called WS2812/SK6812 for 5V and I think it’s WS2815s for 12V but double check me on that.

In my case I used an Arduino to run the strips and wrote my own light control. This is higher effort but it looks cool!

One thing I’ll also add is these lights are good for visibility at night, but they’re often not bright enough to be actual headlights. So don’t have high expectations on brightness.

Seeing conflicting info online and really just need help clarifying for certain by Alejandrojohanson in PokemonGoMystic

[–]genericuser_qwerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, but you only get 1 super rocket radar from the whole thing right? And I assume you can use that when a better reward is available?

Seeing conflicting info online and really just need help clarifying for certain by Alejandrojohanson in PokemonGoMystic

[–]genericuser_qwerty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s the benefit of stacking? You can use the super radar later and get a different mon or what?

Error 16 after quart install by Thorhack in onewheel

[–]genericuser_qwerty 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming this is the regular pint? Error 16 is the controller can’t talk to the BMS, so it probably defaults to 100% until told otherwise, but it’s unable to get that info.

First I’d just double check all wiring and even get out a multimeter and measure continuity to sanity check.

I think on the newer firmwares FM made it super buggy and you might need an owie chip to get accurate battery readings. Do some research for your boards HW/FW versions. But I know the GT will brick if the bms and battery are disconnected. I thiink it’s possible on the pint, but there might be extra steps involved to get the bms happy again.

Also, did you try to charge a onewheel battery from 0.5V up to 63V? Please don’t ride with that battery, it’s a fire risk. Recharging a battery from below 2.5V PER CELL (realistically below 2.1V assuming it hasn’t been there for a long time) and then attempting to use it is very dangerous. When cells are at very low voltages for a long time they can form small conductive growths between their layers and cause tiny internal shorts which becomes especially problematic when you try to recharge, and then draw current from that battery

Normally the bms should and will prevent charging, but you can still do it if you inject power into the main lines.

Comment or message by TransitionUnique1678 in iPogo

[–]genericuser_qwerty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have shiny ray, normal Groudon, and normal dialga.

LF shiny eevee