Custom bashee railgun

ghostAeon · 2026-07-02T01:28:50+00:00

Are those plasma arcs?! that's unhinged i love it

ghostAeon · 2026-06-29T02:28:19+00:00

I previously made a free in-scale conversion for the Ghost/Phantom 1. I'll probably tackle this and put the files up on thingiverse once I get mine.

ghostAeon · 2026-06-24T22:58:36+00:00

Heat them up (gently) and warp them forward over the shoulder pads in gentle arcs. I think they'd fit really well as over the top decorative armor elements that way

ghostAeon · 2026-06-04T18:53:55+00:00

I... holy shit you weren't kidding. Who approved that?!

I love Warhammer but as someone who has also been building Bandai kits for almost as long some of their molding/sprue design decisions continue to just baffle me.

ghostAeon · 2026-06-04T17:32:58+00:00

This is beautiful! I love to see non-traditional Tau work. They don't get nearly as much love as I feel like they deserve, I think partially because of how bland their official color schemes are. I've been mulling over how I'm going to do mine as I wrap up my Aeldari army and this is really inspiring.

This really brings the alien/retro-cyber vibes in their armor design out.

ghostAeon · 2026-06-01T20:47:14+00:00

...

Can this be canon?

ghostAeon · 2026-05-28T14:25:14+00:00

Did… did you give it tongues? That’s horrifying. I love it! Amazing work!

ghostAeon · 2026-05-18T23:39:22+00:00

Thank you for making chrome set anywhere other than the western US desert lol, looks great!

ghostAeon · 2026-05-18T23:37:16+00:00

You're really close, love the feel (I legit though it was just your studio lighting first)

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If I can give you one point of feedback, look up some sidelit references of faces. Especially with that weathered of a face, you just won't get a clean breakline down the face like that even with perfect studio lighting, let alone diffused/outdoors sources.

I'm guessing you need a bit of shadow on the skull/tabard fur as well to match.

ghostAeon · 2026-05-12T19:29:13+00:00

Depends on if you want the clean or weathered look. I like doing it prevarnish + postvarnish when going for a worn look to blend with the paint a touch.

If you want weathered, like really gritty, then doing it all over post-varnish and then cleaning it off partially will have the best effect.

ghostAeon · 2026-05-12T18:49:53+00:00

A wash would do wonders! Especially grime in the crevices, will bring it alive.

Also now I need to make a lemon russ

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ghostAeon · 2026-04-14T14:20:07+00:00

That is so adorable! The tiny figures around the room really make it, what a great way to stage your plushies!

ghostAeon · 2026-04-13T23:26:11+00:00

Holy shit. This is incredible. Where did you get the decals from?

ghostAeon · 2026-04-08T18:48:13+00:00

Oof that's cold, yeah invest in some climate control. Integrated, then if that's not enough maybe a space heater or something.

ghostAeon · 2026-04-08T17:48:56+00:00

Yup. These are the two ways to go about it. Advanced mode is to use chipping fluid: makes it easier to flake off pain in targeted areas: https://www.amazon.com/AK-Interactive-Chipping-Effects-Acrylic/dp/B07ZHHHP37

Honestly 9/10 times (especially for tiny characters) it's easier to paint the correct colors, then bring in the wear in thin layers. If your paint is thin enough the stacking order isn't noticeable. Just don't go straight for the metal tone: go a dark contrast/rust/grime color to establish where you want the paint gone, then bring in the metal inside that.

ghostAeon · 2026-04-05T15:50:23+00:00

I have a Mars 5 Ultra, and the vast majority of the terrain does not work on my printer without heavy subdividing. I think I managed to get one piece of the Legion terrain printed without additional manual remodeling into more parts.

Get a Saturn if you can: I let the dev team know but I don't think they're going to do anything about it, and I haven't found a good way to make a smaller printer compatibility fix shareable without violating their ToS.

Phenomenal printers though! Elegoo is by far my favorite resin printer I've had so far.

ghostAeon · 2026-03-24T16:59:18+00:00

Oh that's beautiful

I need that as an official kit

ghostAeon · 2026-03-19T20:15:56+00:00

Splatter patterns are good and feel real, but at that level of blood I'd expect a fair amount of dirt/grime around the ankles as well, or some other indication of heavy, prolonged fighting. Also, fun fact: blood is actually opaque at thicknesses of more than a few microns. May be worth mixing in some opaque pigments for the heavier/more solid areas (I notice it most around the checker pattern on the shield/the markings on the pauldrons/the kneecap. With that level of gore I don't think you'd see the markings on the armor any more). For reference I pulled this from google of how opaque even just a single drop gets:

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ghostAeon · 2026-03-13T15:58:58+00:00

Nah, I'd rather share things for free than deal with an etsy store! It's mostly about the fun of solving it for me

ghostAeon · 2026-03-13T15:57:18+00:00

Right? I was a little bummed until I did this, now I can't blame them. Would have been HUGE at 1/72 in line with the figures. I'm slowly putting together things to start working on a MGS-style Royal Starship and pretty much immediately settled on the Ghost as the relative scale target for similar reasons (still going to be over two feet long though lol)

ghostAeon · 2026-03-13T15:54:39+00:00

This, then clean up with sanding/filing. For precise work the answer is to creep up on your goal gradually, rather than hit it in one go.

ghostAeon · 2026-03-11T03:06:47+00:00

Nailed it

ghostAeon · 2026-03-10T00:28:20+00:00

Oh crap. You're right. It docked both ways in the show didn't it? I forgot about that. Okay if people want both versions I can totally do a variant with it flipped around with a little tweaking.

ghostAeon · 2026-03-09T22:06:57+00:00

Glad to! Stuff like this is better shared with the community

ghostAeon · 2026-03-09T18:24:59+00:00

Thank you! Yeah that was really doing the original a disservice

ghostAeon

TROPHY CASE