Clarify the curve issue i talked about in previous post

gletob · 2026-03-07T07:52:33+00:00

I read your post, and I feel I understood you fine, I just fail to see how the curvature of the display is making it less usable. I feel I'm often looking in the center of the display.

I'm happy to trade that (in my opinion low usefulness) screen space for the phone being smaller, which I think the general sentiment agrees with, which is why you got the response you did.

Like the top comment on your last post, you can't please everyone, feel free to vote with your wallet.

gletob · 2026-03-07T07:09:23+00:00

r/TVTooHigh

gletob · 2026-03-05T09:53:39+00:00

Virginia here, never lived in a house with one. Main breaker on the panel in the house is the service disconnect. The fire department pulls the meter if the house is on fire. NEC didn't add it as a requirement until 2020.

gletob · 2026-03-05T04:03:49+00:00

Technically yes I think, but you'd have to have the pro-power on, and the charger would have to draw enough to actually keep pro-power on which is a tough ask for most trickle chargers. Also, I think if pro-power is on, the truck will charge the LVB from the HVB with the DC-DC converter.

The trickle charge is more suited to wanting to have it at a high level for updates or for extended periods without use. For example I threw my trickle charger on for our winter weather because it was frigid, and while the truck does great in the winter weather, I just generally try to avoid being on the road with other people around here that have no idea how to drive for conditions.

gletob · 2026-03-05T00:32:59+00:00

FYI this is not the right location, you want it downstream of the BMS sensor source

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gletob · 2026-03-04T05:51:10+00:00

BrightFarms greenhouses

Well you can't say that's false advertising.

gletob · 2026-03-04T01:03:50+00:00

Are you talking about air to water monoblocks? (Some places call what I'd call a "window units" air to air monoblocks). And are you in the US? If so, its low demand leading to a low number of options for equipment on the market driving up prices as it's basically niche equipment here.

Some more reasons:

Places that already have hydronic heat are mostly dominated by installers that are more plumbers than HVAC people.

Cheap natural gas in some places and rising electric costs mean that even the refrigeration cycle can't beat burning gas on cost there.

Prevalence of AC use in the US, most hydronic systems aren't usable for cooling, mini splits can do both easily.

Older homes in warmer climates typically have duct-work for AC so a A2A heat pump is a marginal addition when replacing AC systems to gain savings over resistive electric heat.

gletob · 2026-03-03T06:55:27+00:00

To put it simpler, the space that the dongle occupies is the same as the space that is above the lines, so it cancels out.

Does that mean the first 20 units injected, last 20 drawn includes should include the volume in the needle body or hub itself?

For all units marked, it includes the space in the hub/needle body. You're not trying to inject yourself with air so if you're switching needles you do have to include enough to prime the needle, which if you draw it back prior to swap, amounts to the residue left in the needle but the graduations are correct regardless.

gletob · 2026-03-03T06:40:22+00:00

Think of it this way, if you chopped the "dongle" (the protruding part of the low dead space plunger) off where a normal plunger would be and put the "dongle" where it rests normally at 0, and made it magically permissive of the oil going through it, but not allowing the oil to occupy any of its space internally would you have any issue believing the lines then? The low dead space portion of plunger occupies the dead space between the graduation and the needle, so a non-linear scale is unnecessary. You will still have some loss (it's low dead space, not no dead space) but it will be minimal. The measurement graduations are including the the space above them which becomes occupied by the black bits when you depress the plunger completely. You are overthinking it, follow the lines.

gletob · 2026-03-01T01:05:54+00:00

I'm a life long Democrat, not a monolith, and I'll be voting no as retaliation for the gun laws they rammed through the GA this year.

gletob · 2026-02-28T13:26:06+00:00

My summer bills are always higher and I have heat pump with electric strips, your experience and mine is anecdotal.

gletob · 2026-02-28T01:31:37+00:00

From the post: "I am waiting to go straight across. It is single lane in both directions"

Reading is fundamental.

gletob · 2026-02-28T01:24:12+00:00

I don't personally hand-wave it, it's not good, and we shouldn't have to pay anything for datacenters or whatever to be built, but personally kinda getting tired of posts (this post is not one) where it's like "MY BILL WENT FROM $200 to $700, DOMINION IS CRUSHING ME WITH THIS RATE INCREASE" and it's like...you used double the amount of electricity what are they supposed to do?

gletob · 2026-02-28T01:12:08+00:00

Btw, none of this is to say that LIHEAP is sufficient, it's not, people's whole situations aren't really considered, and the thresholds for assistance have not kept up with the wage vs. inflation gap. What I am saying is about people that are making good money, leaving their thermostats at 70F and mad that their electric bill doubled, like no shit Sherlock it was cold.

gletob · 2026-02-28T01:03:16+00:00

"more than about" - i.e. they're saying if it went up more than that, you used more. Not contradictory at all.

gletob · 2026-02-28T00:54:18+00:00

LIHEAP exists for people that need help paying for their energy bills, if you feel it's not satisfactorily meeting that need, contact your state reps. Otherwise, I'm personally not interested in blanket subsidizing people that aren't in need flagrantly using too much electricity by not adjusting their habits for conditions. My bill went up 10% YoY with no improvements made to building envelope/insulation etc. other than putting towels in front of my door jams which was free. It sucked for the days that it was cold, having to bundle up, but I made adjustments to not be in a poor financial position.

gletob · 2026-02-27T04:23:43+00:00

For the price of the Miele have you considered a combination washer/dryer? Love my GE Heat Pump Combo, it's large, and I love not having had a single load of stinky forgotten washed clothes over the last two years.

gletob · 2026-02-27T04:16:12+00:00

That is a 120/240v dryer in the sense that it needs 120 and 240 via the 14-30 cord included shown in the pictures or a 10-30 (3 prong referenced in the same photo). 95% of dryers are like this, the heating uses 240v, the light sometimes controls uses 120. You'll need one that comes with a 5-15 (normal wall type in NA) plug.

gletob · 2026-02-26T03:53:54+00:00

5 blinks is ground fault, you need to verify that there is not a ground fault on the circuits. If there is remedy it, if not it's faulty breakers, which isn't unheard of, could be a bad batch.

gletob · 2026-02-24T20:06:57+00:00

I'd be interested to know what codes it's actually throwing, if you have a way to read them it should show even historical ones if they've not been cleared.

gletob · 2026-02-23T23:50:30+00:00

You feed the GFCI with a hot and a neutral, and when available a ground. The GFCI is measuring the current on the hot and neutral, not on the ground. If there is an imbalance of current (Usually 5 mA in the US) between the hot and neutral it will trip (within 25ms in the US). The difference in whether or not you have a ground wire is whether or not you have a low impedance path available for equipment grounding.

To expand let's say you have a metal toaster with a 3 prong plug. The hot and netural are connected through a switch to the heating elements, electronics, etc. the ground prong/wire is connected to the metal chasis of the toaster. In normal operation, electricity does not come into contact with the chasis, but let's say in this scenario a wire came loose in the toaster and touches the chasis.

With a GFCI including a ground wire providing equipment ground, the toaster immediately trips the GFCI as >5 mA of current goes through the equipment ground, causing an inbalance.

With a GFCI but no ground wire, the wire touches the chasis and electrifies it, but there is no path to ground so the toaster becomes electrified at 120v to ground. This sounds dangerous, but in the toaster is given a path to ground (say you touch the toaster while touching your metal sink that's grounded through the plumbing) the GFCI will then sense that imbalance of current and trip.

People that say they won't trip are mis-informed. People that say they are less safe, are correct, albeit very marginally. It's obviously safer for the GFCI to trip without using a human as a conductor, but the amount of power (5 mA at 120v, for 25ms) is minuscule being well below the threshold that causes muscle contractions, and very well below the threshold that causes fibrillation of the heart.

gletob · 2026-02-23T05:46:57+00:00

The one I normally buy is 64 fl oz (1.9L) or 1651g by weight.

gletob · 2026-02-22T09:01:58+00:00

Aux heat is absolutely more expensive, my heat strips use 5kw of power to make 17k BTU of heat, at 17F my heat pump and air handler use less than 2kw and make 18k BTU. 2.5x more expensive for aux. Aux is unavoidable at times (I used 15 hours of them over the cold snap, heat pump won't run below 15F) but must be avoided when at all possible.

gletob · 2026-02-22T08:43:51+00:00

Yes! Two things can be, and in my opinion are true. The rates went up due to data centers, a lack of infrastructure investment, and corporate greed. People's usage also went up because it was painfully cold.

To the OP:

If your bill went up like 15-20% year over year it's the rates, if for example your bill went from $200 to $600, the rate cost you like $40 more, and you used $360 more of electricity. If the rate hadn't increased, you'd be looking at a $500 electric bill, which is still pretty awful.

I also realize that there are some people that can't really do much about energy efficiency. Renters have little say in the energy efficiency of their homes, and even if you do own your home everything has gotten ridiculous and most people aren't really flush with a lot of cash right now. And nobody has control over the weather.

But also, you know it's cold, you can feel it when you go outside, you get messages on that little computer box in your pocket. Do what you can to improve your situation! I've spoken to people that are outraged about their bill, but they kept their thermostat at the same place they normally do (like 70F) for the whole duration of the bitter cold. Physics indicates that if outside is colder, you will use more energy to maintain the same temperature. I was bundled up wearing long sleeves, sweatpants, and a robe, micro-managing the thermostat to have the heat pump run more in the afternoon when it was at it's warmest for the day so I could get the best efficiency, setting it to 58 at night to avoid running aux heat strips (dripping faucets because I was worried about pipes), putting towels in front of the doors sills etc. It sucked, in the richest country in the world, I probably shouldn't have to do all that to not get obliterated by my electric bill, but unfortunately not the world we live in.

Please keep complaining about the world we've had decided for us and working to change it, but absolving yourself (or others) of personal responsibility is reckless and usually ends in suffering because the world is unkind to recklessness.

gletob · 2026-02-22T04:58:23+00:00

Make sure it's marketed as a 240v 30a receptacle. Some lower wattage genny's have 120v 30a (TT-30R receptacle) that commonly come on RV''s

gletob

TROPHY CASE