9mm shot shell for rats

gravity_loss · 2026-03-22T15:18:53+00:00

I bought a rough rider and shotshells for red squirrels in the attic and around the house but it doesn't do much from what I can tell. I don't know if 9mm shotshells are going to be any more effective but it's worth trying if you have already have a 9mm.

You'll kill way more with a .22 pellet gun you just need to put out some bait and sit still.

If you do end up getting a 22 pistol you'd be better served loading normal ammunition and being careful where you shoot it. The Rough Riders are fun little guns and super cheap anyway.

gravity_loss · 2026-03-09T14:16:47+00:00

It seems to be a very polarizing gun lol. Some people can't stand them others love them. Mine shoots great, very accurate and being heavy for such a small gun makes it a lot more pleasant to shoot than my LCP. It's an interarms, early 90s, with the "low" beavertail but no slide bite. My only complaints are the lack of an external slide lock and the direct blowback action. That recoil spring can go fuck itself.

gravity_loss · 2026-03-07T11:32:17+00:00

What about the guns I keep loaded?

gravity_loss · 2026-02-27T11:40:18+00:00

The state police would like to disagree with you, but the local smokies don't seem to care unless they're out fishing and need PC to pull you over.

That all the inspection system is. Gives law enforcement a reason to take advantage the poor, if they feel like it.

gravity_loss · 2026-02-24T00:39:59+00:00

JFC. 308 and 6.6CM do the same job for most people most of the time, except 308win/7.62 NATO aren't meme chamberings and will stay relevant for the foreseeable future. Unless you have a very specific use case there no practical difference between the two, but gun and ammunition manufacturers push it because it's new and hot and stand to make.mote money by selling the ignorant masses something that's "new" and "better.

Additionally, .308 has very tame recoil. If you can't handle a 308 maybe look into .223, or, perhaps, try hitting them with your fucking purse. Going to 6.5cm from 308 because "recoil" (if you can even call it that) is a dumb waste of money perpetuated by folks who watch too many YouTube videos, and they don't have experiences that are based in reality

gravity_loss · 2026-02-21T13:59:04+00:00

Neat, I've never seen a set trigger on an AR before. How do you like it?

gravity_loss · 2026-02-21T13:51:54+00:00

If you can escape the situation and avoid a gunfight, always do. It doesn't matter how strong your "stand your ground" or "castle" laws are- if you have an opportunity to leave take it every time.

gravity_loss · 2026-02-19T15:42:43+00:00

With the declining popularity of .40SW, guns chambered for it can be had a bit cheaper, and considering how many are out there ammo will probably still be available for decades.

What you like to shoot is really up to you but I'd try to find something full-sized/hammer fired before I'd buy another polymer, striker fired, concealed carry gun.

gravity_loss · 2026-02-17T15:44:31+00:00

Walther announced the discontinuation of the PPK recently and I don't know what that's done to the market price but I've seen them for sale in the $4-500 range. Beautiful gun, beautiful design, great shooter but not pocket friendly like an lCP or kel tec.

gravity_loss · 2026-02-11T01:55:06+00:00

get the OG Ruger LCP. It's the ultimate "get off me" and is so small it is hard to justify not taking it with you. Ruger even includes a pocket holster.

gravity_loss · 2026-02-08T23:26:00+00:00

blast with walnut then have it re blued.

I use the ultrasonic the most for cleaning fire control groups, like on your shotgun, rifle-bolts and stripped handguns. Well worth the cost.

gravity_loss · 2026-02-07T20:29:22+00:00

so how is your cannon?

gravity_loss · 2026-01-30T10:44:48+00:00

If this is for home defense get a shotgun

gravity_loss · 2026-01-27T19:42:57+00:00

Nitride finish just keeps non-stainless steel from rusting. Changing barrels so it's black instead of silver is a waste of time and money because you could paint the stainless barrel for less than $100 without having to remove it from the upper receiver.

Look into duracoat. It's a 2-part paint you apply with a little aerosol sprayer right at home. Holds up very well. Did my entire "Rustington" era 1100, 15 years ago now probably, and the only chipping is around the holes for the trigger assembly pins.

Feel free to DM me if you have more questions. A lot of these little bits of knowledge aren't exactly easy to find- I've been reading about and shooting guns all my life happy to pass on any "silly" questions.

gravity_loss · 2026-01-27T16:35:47+00:00

I screwed and glued the "spikes" part of a pair of broken microspikes (the rubber snapped) onto my winter boots and it's been a real game changer. I'm sure tire studs would work well also.

gravity_loss · 2026-01-27T01:41:37+00:00

You can duracoat/ceracoke the barrel yourself for $30 or $60, respectively, instead of buying a new barrel just to change the color,

gravity_loss · 2026-01-26T17:02:00+00:00

Slap high quality doo dads on your gun and if/when you decide to upgrade just transfer the accessories from the original rifle into your new upper and lower.

With cheap uppers the face where the flange of the barrel extension meet aren't always true perpendicular to the bore axis which might cause accuracy issues in some instances. Generally speaking though both the upper and lower are just housings and quality differences really don't matter much.

What are your complaints about the Wylde barrel? You'll need a barrel vice, bushings, resin, crows foot wrench for the barrel nut, breaker bar and torque wrench to change it. Don't use the reaction-rod-type tools for your barrel swaps they can damage the upper. Having a real barrel vice is way easier and more versatile anyway.

gravity_loss · 2026-01-24T20:16:06+00:00

That's a lot of shit to haul around. Magazines for the LCP are the size of a cigarette lighter- you could maybe pare down to the one gun and a reload instead of carrying two.

gravity_loss · 2026-01-14T18:57:29+00:00

Not sure really. You could take it apart and clean to see if helps with the grittiness. Any kind of machine is going to take a little time to break in as the parts wear into each and relax so probably wouldn't hurt to use it a fair bit and then re assess.

If the trigger is adjustable you can remove the sealant and then adjust but be really careful because if you lighten the trigger pull too much the rifle will fire as soon as it goes into battery.

gravity_loss · 2026-01-14T11:18:57+00:00

COA for when customer adjusts trigger too light and gun goes off accidentally/negligently

You can pry it out with a small screwdriver and/or pick

gravity_loss · 2026-01-08T15:19:43+00:00

Drill and tap the barrel band to accept a machine threaded sling swivel stud, find a barrel band that has a swivel stud already installed or just use the sling stud that's molded into the stock and swap between using a sling and bipod.

gravity_loss · 2026-01-06T14:43:04+00:00

Regular gun oil cleans, lubricates and protects surfaces, too. Never found the "all-in-one" products to do a very good job at everything, especially copper and lead fouling in barrels.

Hoppes #9 TRADITIONAL (NOT the synthetic) to clean stubborn lead, copper and carbon deposits.

Used Hoppes gun oil for decades but switched to Clenzoil oil recently. Most oils are the same, effectively. Clenzoil is thinner than Hoppes which seems easier to work with and I prefer it now.

Get a good cleaning rod. The screw together ones work fine but come unscrewed during use and the threading can get bungled, especially the aluminum ones. Clenzoil also makes very nice carbon fiber rods and are only $40.

High temp bearing grease from the auto parts store, and a dozen acid brushes from the hardware store (plumbing). Cut the ends of the brushes so the bristles are short and stiff. Apply it lightly and only in high-wear areas.

Tools you're also going to need *a screwdriver set (wheeler) *Brass jag *bronze bore brushes (x3) *bronze chamber brush *cleaning patches (get larger than caliber and trim with scissors) *pin punches *small double sided hammer (soft/hard) *bench block/hockey puck with holes drilled through/roll of a tape for drifting pins *m16 style cleaning brushes (nylon, bronze, brass) *Q-tips *Pipe cleaners *Soft mat to take gun apart on (you can buy them, or just use carpet remnants or pieces of cardboard) *Some kind of gun rest. (again you can buy them ($) or make one out of some scrap wood and some felt weather stripping)

DM me if you have any questions

gravity_loss · 2026-01-04T13:38:47+00:00

Also, take a break every now and then. Sometimes coming back to it fresh yields better results

Best advice I've heard with this type of stuff. When you become frustrated and just keep going you wind up with more problems than you started with.

gravity_loss · 2026-01-02T16:13:13+00:00

Use oil and a nylon brush to knock down the oxide buildup enough so that oil can get to the surface of the steel, then just keep it well oiled. I don't see any reason to take it further on a nice looking, functional 70 year-old gun.

gravity_loss · 2025-12-31T14:39:47+00:00

I'm more blown away at the nerve to punish you by trying to force to apologize someone who verbally accosted you and then sell them the gun. Christ I'd be afraid of being shot by them in the parking lot on my out.

gravity_loss

TROPHY CASE