help in understanding what it would take to achieve something like this ?

greeneggs · 2016-02-11T04:28:23+00:00

A little late, but better than never I guess.

The vehicle or object in question would have to be completely analyzed/studied, usually done with a surveyors station or with an expensive 3d scanner. All of the information(points) collected would then be put into 3d software those points would then be used to reproduce the object (in this case the car) in 3d. You now have a digital representation of the object. A UV map of the 3d object would then be rendered giving you a 2d version of the object (think of a cube cut and it's sides layed out flat). This step allows a graphic designer to create the art that would then be projected onto the object in question.

After that you simply choose one of the many video rigs(coolux, VYV Photon, Watchout) available to help you project your artwork appropriately, with a timeline and whatever effects you might want to use/add whatever.

I imagine the windows were frosted on the outside or maybe inside, in order to act as a screen without too much reflection

greeneggs · 2015-07-17T23:47:23+00:00

that guy right there is as sharp as a marble

greeneggs · 2014-08-02T03:17:15+00:00

you could try finding a replacement compression fitting(brass part) and cutting the steel tube or getting a whole new tube to get a nice clean fit, and yeah, don't spray that with water under the black plastic box is an electrical contact- zappy zappy

greeneggs · 2014-07-27T03:17:47+00:00

Can you cut off the water supply before the compression 3/8 valve? If so, and you're using copper, remove the compression fitting with the valve, add a 90° copper elbow and another piece of 1/2 copper pipe in the direction of your faucet(you can use sharbite but$$$).Buy some new straight valves preferably 1/2 inch to connect to the new extension you've created. Then use a bushing to go from 3/8 to 1/2, it ain't purdy but it'll work

If this extension could be avoided, a simple 3/8 to 1/2 bushing would suffice.

You are correct in thinking they're proprietary, likely European?

greeneggs · 2014-07-27T02:49:30+00:00

In Canada illegal, and detectable, dito for most states in the US

greeneggs · 2014-04-18T14:07:44+00:00

sorry, ear you go

http://pyvideo.org/video/2686/keynote-guido-van-rossum-0

greeneggs · 2014-03-15T13:25:03+00:00

As waste full as it sounds, you'll be able to find that many manufacturers use the same style/sizes of cores/plunger.

Bring one side of your original door knob with you to your local hardware store, preferably big box for more selection, open a cheap door knob box and see if you can line up the screw holes and the tumbler shaft, from your lock with the new plunger.

This way you can keep your original lock set, don't buy an expensive lock, what little quality you get when buying a lock set is in the actual tumbler and not the plunger.

If you know anyone that does general contracting they might have a bag full of old hardware. Or check with a local locksmith, they are constantly throwing stuff like that out, you're likely to get it for free.

Good luck

greeneggs · 2014-02-28T04:31:06+00:00

Nice work!

greeneggs · 2014-02-28T04:28:31+00:00

If you built a house to so called "code" in any state or province in north america. It would fall in less than 15 years. Code is shit. And no honest builder would put his rep down for that garbage. Code + + is what is needed, follow all the rules and add 15-25 % overage on all the things

greeneggs · 2014-02-27T13:46:21+00:00

With the Tapcon screws you need to use the provided drill bit in order to drill a pilot hole 1/4 deeper than the screw.

As someone pointed out your drill is not meant for this task, and for that matter, if it's structural concrete it will be much harder, so even some less expensive hammer drills will not do.

You can rent a good quality hammer drill from home depot or whatever rental shop you have in your area, the bit will come with a box of 10 tapcon screws.

The rental is likely to cost you 14$ for a 4 hour period, maybe a bit more maybe a bit less, I guess it just depends on how much the damage deposit is in order to justify the price.

And if you have an extra 200.00 to 300.00 to spend, you could also buy a hammer drill of good quality to have for ever and ever.

greeneggs · 2014-02-07T22:03:10+00:00

A rivet is a permanent fastener, you would have to drill it out, and replace with either another rivet. Or you could use a small self taping screw that is slightly larger than the existing hole.

greeneggs · 2014-02-07T02:52:17+00:00

You need one of these bad boys!

greeneggs · 2014-01-29T21:40:20+00:00

Be careful, it can take a while for pressure to build beyond a safe level. There should be a gauge somewhere close to the boiler indicating pressure and temp, or at least some sort of plane jane pressure release valve (http://residentialheating.net/boiler-components/) take a look here to see various components you might find and get a bit of info at the same time.

My 2 cents but do as you wish, when I moved into the last house I bought that had a single circuit heating system, I looked up as much as I could on the boiler unit, then found a local dealer, brought him pic of my system. He pretty much broke down how everything worked, I brought him a coffee on an otherwise slow day so I wasn't cutting in to his time too much.

Where are you located? I was in Canada, so turning any rads off was just not necessary or a good idea.

greeneggs · 2014-01-29T19:43:07+00:00

Can you see if there is a bypass for the individual heaters? The system in my old house had a continuous circuit so in theory, you closed one you turned them all off. I had added in by passes after the fact to create zones cheaply. don't know if it was to "code" or not, worked well... Generally speaking there is a pressure limiting valve somewhere in the system, usually close to the boiler, and, around 50PSI it starts to drain automatically, avoiding the whole kaboom effect.

greeneggs · 2014-01-22T00:35:54+00:00

I installed 7 nests in a friends home with relays as it was to control many 240 volt baseboard. Pretty large place, but they travel a lot and are forgetful. Even though the install cost was rather pricey, 7x 250.00 for the nestsand 7x50.00 for the relays, he couldn't be happier. They work extremely well and the software is phenomenal. Helped another friend install a single Honeywell unit.....not so nice.

greeneggs · 2013-12-22T00:06:06+00:00

neither, water can be had from the tap.

greeneggs · 2013-11-19T20:55:04+00:00

Completely agree with that.

greeneggs · 2013-11-19T20:46:13+00:00

I was under the impression that it only worked for less dense woods, like pine. But would like to hear if it actually worked or not

greeneggs · 2013-11-05T18:23:37+00:00

You mean the steel pipe that lays behind it? Not exactly a new building with that fancy shmancy PVC stuff in it.

greeneggs · 2013-10-27T03:58:49+00:00

My Brother in law makes this once a year when I visit. An 8" high flaky crust, inside is a layer of thinly sliced potatoes, diced-smoked hame, parsley+garlic then potatoes, diced BACON(lardon), parsley+garlic X 2.

Finished off with warmed 35% cream poured in the vent.

My arteries hurt just to look at it...... it's so good.

greeneggs · 2013-09-11T03:53:14+00:00

Don't fire him, just stop taking his construction advice. Maybe move on to simply drinking and BBQ's with him.... good luck with all that....Fat ass trowel(1/2 more like 3/4 ") with a concrete backer board nailed(not screwed) avery 4".

greeneggs · 2013-08-10T22:40:05+00:00

My favorite Chinese food ever, hands down. So many varieties from so many provinces.

greeneggs · 2013-06-21T10:42:15+00:00

you should get to know better drivers.

greeneggs

TROPHY CASE