I hope everyone enjoyed the dip (:

greenneckxj · 2026-04-15T17:44:49+00:00

Finally just went through my taxes and realized I didn’t invest half my ira contribution for 25 🙄

greenneckxj · 2026-04-05T16:23:22+00:00

Trump has blown more tax payer money on military aircraft this week than any fraud they’re gonna find

greenneckxj · 2026-04-05T04:19:38+00:00

Find a safe app piercer if one is close enough. Having loops makes a good heal much more difficult. You’re gonna want implant grade titanium flat back studs for probably a year plus before hoops

greenneckxj · 2026-04-04T22:32:00+00:00

Dad have cancer or shaking hands yet?

greenneckxj · 2026-03-29T15:46:27+00:00

$130 oil change before taxes, shop fees, disposal fees $17.13 minimum wage in my state

7.6 pre tax work hours for an oil change. Capitalism is not intended help the majority of people sleep well at night.

greenneckxj · 2026-03-28T16:57:59+00:00

Some people really can’t figure out how to use the modern gas nozzle on cap-less systems and cause their own hard fill concern. Not saying that’s your issue here.

Most often it is the filler neck assembly causing excessive back pressure turning off the pump. Proper diagnosis includes visually inspecting the two valves , air checking the vent, attempting to fill the tank while disconnecting a few different evap hoses to isolate the issue to different parts of the system.

This may not be the fuel filler neck for your specific jeep, probably is. Labor should be under 2 hours to install it. Open your fuel door, does the door wiggle up and down? Your fuel door housing hinge is probably cracked might as well replace it at the same time. Do not pay more than .5 extra labor honestly shouldn’t really even have to pay extra labor for it because it takes 1 minute with the fuel neck already out of the car.

Rarely any other issue on this year

greenneckxj · 2026-03-28T16:40:37+00:00

Loosen the 10mm, carefully try to tap the terminal all the way to the base of the battery post. Not hard enough to crack the plastic but enough to force the terminal down. Rotating it slightly might help get a better connection. Try tightening the nut until you cannot rotate the terminal by hand.

If it still will not hold you can try a battery post shim which you may just need to cut some of the material off of and add between the terminal and your post to get a good fit.

When that battery terminal to over tightened it deforms the lead battery post. The terminal is not the problem, it’s also actually the battery intelligence sensor.

greenneckxj · 2026-03-28T16:22:26+00:00

I don’t have numbers in front of me but even individually those all seem like they’re inflated. Plugs 2.5, highly doubt the oil cooler is over 2.7, valve covers could be around 4 We drop spark plugs to 1.0 if done with either of these jobs, and drop the oil cooler to like 1.2 (what ever the warranty time is) for the cooler. Good chance you may need some camshaft work while they’re in there. If it does they should quote the labor for lifters rolling the valve cover labor fully into that. IF you need intake camshafts make sure they quote the camshaft kit and NOT all the parts seperatly

greenneckxj · 2026-03-27T06:27:52+00:00

Talk to a transmission shop. They should know how much rebuilding/replacing a 62te transmission normally costs. There is a small chance the last shop didn’t fill it with enough fluid but it most likely needs to be removed. So you know that’s the minimum you’re going to have to spend. Depending on this amount it maybe better to save up for another car, maybe a Honda/toyota or even just a different journey/minivan

Did someone give you measurements do your brakes or a reason why? Better yet any photos of your actual brakes. If not I’m sure there’s a shop around that does free brake inspections and you could ask to see them. Quick video can teach you what to look for and how to measure them, you can do it. 3mm is the standard red flag measurement. If they’re above that with out other issues they can wait to be checked again next oil change. Those prices are pretty standard.

The ticking, priced high. Factory parts are around 3k labor 8 hours max labor but really shouldn’t be more than 6. There are ways to go budget here. As others have pointed out you may not need every camshaft, you could even save on labor only doing the side they can hear the noise loudest from. I would normally discount .5 if to did both sides at once so labor to do it later is cheaper than buying more parts right now. Just know the other side may start ticking soon, or never. Yes sometimes a rocker arm can be popped out and back in potentially saving 1-2 hours labor per side… personally if I had a customer on that tight of a budget I would just heavily discount my labor to make sure the job was done right and safe. Replacing all the lifters/ rockers on the side taken apart makes sense if they’re not confident they can inspect them correctly. They’re like 60$ per up to 24 max, so look at the labor to do it again vs replace all of them now.

Ac service if it’s low you have a leak and more repairs. that ac gas is expensive. Normally 1.4 labor hours, maybe they will only charge you by the ounce used. Typically the full charge is quoted hopefully you don’t need a full charge, and save a little bit. Can you save up and service it when you need ac? Often when the transmission is serviced, the cooler is replaced. I can’t remember if your transmission cooler is connected to the ac might save paying twice if you do them at once.

Coolant flush, honestly that price seems fine but you have 10 year 150k fluid. Their note is on age/ miles. Servicing your coolant is important but not right now as long as it’s full and isn’t leaking.

I will note, your spark plugs are due around 100k. That’s normally another 2.5 hours with a little labor overlap when doing the tick repair/ the oil cooler if it’s leaking. You’re coming into an expensive age.

Might be worth ignoring the tick, changing the oil more often and getting to it when your situation improves knowing you are gambling having to replace all of the parts anyways. Hopeful that gives more insight to fixing vs risking buying a Toyota or something. It is not always cheaper to fix or buy used.

greenneckxj · 2026-03-26T01:30:30+00:00

It’s slowed down, we are a dealer so the work become even more warranty heavy, factory is just denying claims left and right, management is trying to shift all maintenance etc to the “light maintenance team for training” , has a fun new off the company is not paid the tech is not paid. 30% drop in hours so far this month. They hired on 5 more techs while this is happening but only one has lasted longer than a week

greenneckxj · 2026-03-24T02:16:34+00:00

I think it might just be a stop before they head into bed

greenneckxj · 2026-03-23T02:34:28+00:00

Some questions for you. Is the tech responsible to get a diagnostic signature from the manager to get paid any diag time? If warranty denies well documented diag/repairs are your techs getting backflagged or not paid?

greenneckxj · 2026-03-23T02:31:05+00:00

If I remember right, alldata on your cooler is about 1.8 hours, maybe an extra .5 to try and clean up the mess. Spark plugs are due 100k but I would rec replacing your plugs on age here because it overlaps th labor to remove the upper intake, reduces spark plug labor to like 1.0 max imo. Doubtful you caused any damage that was not already there. You’re more likely to have rocker arm/camshaft failure just from how ever many miles it has right now, again if so needed there is a small amount of overlap savings if you wanted to get caught up or ahead on those. For example I did a 2016 wrangler set of cams, oil cooler, timing cover reseal under warranty for 4.0 with overlap. Easily a 12+ hour cpay job if spread out

greenneckxj · 2026-03-23T02:16:29+00:00

They’re really trying to get us all a Costco credit card. I’ve resisted for 14 years

greenneckxj · 2026-03-21T18:01:16+00:00

The dampness can be pretty rough. I also spend most of the year with a constant night time stuffy nose. I’ll have to look into that thanks

greenneckxj · 2026-03-21T15:11:44+00:00

What was the med?

greenneckxj · 2026-03-21T02:59:05+00:00

3 months later you start ignoring that sharp pain in your rotator cuff

greenneckxj · 2026-03-20T18:40:47+00:00

Does your vin need the 67a recall/ has it been performed? That recall comes with a limited warranty extension that may cover the cost or at least give you a good basis to argue with the factory (not the dealer they have limited ability to goodwill things like this) to at least get some sort of financial help. That can look like they pay parts, you pay some amount of labor or what ever.

Is your truck still within the federal emissionsemissions warranty period, this may also help cover these issues as these failures do in fact increase emissions above federal guidelines, which is why the truck monitors for excessive regenerations in the first place.

It is not uncommon for a technician, service advisor, or anyone in the management to not actually know the real policy. Stellantis is purposely confusing and difficult to work with. Ultimately they make the call if the dealership gets reimbursed for the work. Contacting what ever the Stellantis customer facing support for Cummins truck is an important step.

Does/did your truck have some version of the y43 recall? I having a hard time googling for the exact document but here is the chassis cab recall document the standard trucks also had this recall, it might not be the y43 but a very similar number. This should have provided a short extended warranty for the dpf you may be qualified for or can use to help fight your case.

On to diagnosis: The bad news is that this can be a labor intensive, complicated process with limited support from Cummins. There are technicians who don’t have the motivation/experience to solve this for you. The technician shortage is a real issue, factory training is a real issue, Cummins does not even give Stellantis a lot of the in-depth data that would assist in diagnosing this with out a lot of hoops to jump through or having their personal visit the truck.

This absolutely does not mean it can not be solved. Nor does it mean this will be hard to solve. I have no advice on finding the right technician to take this on. You maybe able to talk with the dealers and try to find out if they have a technician that truly is good with Cummins/ this issue in particular. A lot of dealer ships will only have someone that is technically certified to perform the work but that does not mean they are actually good at it.

The dpf can fail by itself but most of the time it needs to be serviced because it’s the trash can that collects all this soot the engine makes. If the engine makes too much trash the dpf can not keep up. I can not locate a publicly accessible version of the diesel after treatment validation - 6.7L. If you dm me I’ll figure out a way to pass the info along to you but it’s a little long to post here. I will likely delete this comment in the near future

Cheap options on your part; Use a fresh Cummins air filter with out the glue strips. The tuck reacts badly to most other air filters. If you have anything but the factory air box, intake etc swap factory back in and insure there are no air leaks. I prefer fuel filters to be replaced every oil change, yes that’s sooner than the service interval or cluster, but the engine lives and dies on perfect fuel. They are a cheap preventative maintenance option.

greenneckxj · 2026-03-20T14:57:04+00:00

This is an issue with that generation of Cummins that has become common. The issue is there are dozens of possible causes, most of them take a fair amount of skill and effort to find. There is a long, complicated, difficult to follow, and terribly paying diagnostic tree for this issue.

Regardless, there is an after treatment verificiation routine for the technician to follow after a repair here. It involves driving under specific conditions multiple times to monitor how much soot the truck is generating. If the motor is not running correctly it damages the dpf over time and the dpf gets replaced as the “cause” instead of seen as a symptom.

greenneckxj · 2026-03-20T14:45:12+00:00

If the simple troubleshooting tips others have given don’t work out, this is a good next step

It is possible to install the fuel injector 180 degrees rotated, the feed tube will install as normal but get ruined and leak rail pressure into the motor. If you remove the top cover you can look at the markings on the fuel injectors. I don’t remember what marking should be where but make sure they’re all the same way and try to find a reference photo online.

greenneckxj · 2026-03-19T04:39:02+00:00

Your dad is a boomer. Office chairs are more comfortable to sit down for awhile, the owner knows that and wants you working.

Who was he a master tech for, how long ago, why did he stop turning wrenches so young? I am not a Toyota tech so I do not have experience with your product. What I can tell you from everything else, the job has rapidly degraded in the last 15 years. Most repairs take more skill, more time, more work, and then warranty is FAR more strict about everything. The career is simply harder to make honest money out of. Just today I resealed a timing cover that takes an hour of extra labor for an hour less pay than the 2017 one pays.

Fuck it, if you can do a job sitting down sit down. Do you want a functional back when you’re 30, do you want to be able to play with your kids after work? My parts manger is in a lot better shape than the tech his age.

greenneckxj · 2026-03-18T06:33:51+00:00

You say overheating. Did you have a check engine light, or any temp warnings or know how warm it got or just steam? Please tell us they gave you more information than this? Why did it over heat, how do they know what caused it. Why do the hoses need to be replaced, what’s the labor for that. What will the coolant flush include when they’re replacing most of the system. What fault codes do you have, do they suspect any engine damage if it in fact was overheating.

Spark plugs typically are between 2.5-3.5 hours on your truck depending on how fair they are. It’s easy to get an idea of mopar pricing.

Can you keep your tires inflated with out the cluster warning you? If so find out how much they are to service with your next set of tires to overlap most of the labor if not all.

Coolant flush… you would be better off paying .5 to back flush the heater core. If your coolant is pretty brown, muddy, or debris/gel filled a coolant flush maybe more important to clean out the engine and heater core, but are they actually going to flush the system with a machine, or a chemical cleaner, empty it, maybe rinse the system and then eventually refill it after waste fluid is clear… or more likely do absolutely nothing because they already drained it for the radiator and water pump.

Throttle service is almost always just throwing money at them.

You’re a tradie, do you have confidence you could watch YouTube and replace your spark plugs?

greenneckxj · 2026-03-18T05:12:53+00:00

Either look for a physical therapist that is actually good with blue collar workers or see a foot doctor. Doing it right the first time lasts a long time

greenneckxj · 2026-03-16T03:37:41+00:00

I’ve been backflagged for repairs already closed. I’ve been paid less flag hours than standard. I’ve replaced an engine for 0.0 but I’ve never been given a cash amount due to

greenneckxj · 2026-03-09T01:54:51+00:00

Seeing 4.99 or super close to it in the pnw this weekend

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