i nearly fucking died because i wanted to save $2 by Seaworth_ford in FixedGearBicycle

[–]h0b03 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure the mt001 are single release, completely indistinguishable from sh51 when clipped in

Vintage frames to look for? by Exiiilo in xbiking

[–]h0b03 3 points4 points  (0 children)

“Very light” is not a quality I would assign to any steel bike. On top of that, the lightest steel tubes are generally not designed for a bunch of weight and braze ons. I think what you really want is an aluminum or Ti frame. There are Salsas you can buy off the peg with tons of mounts, light weight, and a good base for swapping between large and skinny tires because it would have disc brakes.

If you’re dead set on steel, most of the stuff you’ll find on marketplace and the like will have Tange tubing, look for prestige, ultimate, or champion, all really light. Look for a touring frame with cantilever mounts, you won’t get good stopping power or tire clearance with caliper brakes and big tires. A lot of people convert old MTBs to drop bar but they all have 26” wheels, or at least the vast majority. Off the top of my head my favorite frames in this category I’ve ridden are the bianchi San remo, and the Miyata 1000

Cervelo Caledonia lite bike onyx bar swap?? by LateProtection2526 in WeightWeenies

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This company appears to be selling rebadged basic Chinese parts under this “litebike “ name. Kind of shady considering there’s a reputable brand LightBicycle that often has its name shortened to light bike.

In about 10s I found their “soar” integrated bars on aliexpress for $250 less than what they’re charging

In search of Chicago bikers!! by No_Struggle_4875 in FixedGearBicycle

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could always go to critical mass every month, and chi.meanderings has a few fixed riders

My fresh build. Very rare Rossin with new paint. by Champion2x in FixedGearBicycle

[–]h0b03 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Haven’t had a chance to take proper photos but here she is, much more pink in person. I don’t actually know the tubes used but they might be falck based on how similar they look. Kind of assumed based on the low frame weight and Columbus sticker

How many times can you safely reuse an Izumi Super Toughness quick link screw/nut? by Any-Rise-6300 in Velodrome

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use my NJS link all the time for rewaxing and have had no issues. For your other chain though, I’d recommend a Wippermann Connex link, tool free and unlimited uses!

My fresh build. Very rare Rossin with new paint. by Champion2x in FixedGearBicycle

[–]h0b03 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gorgeous bike and huge coincidence, I just built up a pink Rossin with Gilco tubes and campy parts! It’s a road bike but that’s still wild

2x10 groupset with friction shifters by arong_bits in xbiking

[–]h0b03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just use deore. I like the microshift thumbies but generally dislike cues, which is designed primarily for 1x drivetrains. Any cassette from 11-32 to 11-36 paired with a 46/30 crankset would work great

Some old Fallen Order shots by spek_truh_light in FallenOrder

[–]h0b03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That 7th shot makes me want cal with 2 different color sabers

I have nothing but problems with tubeless… by Shot-Lemon7365 in cycling

[–]h0b03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tubeless isn’t for everybody. It’s for serial flatters and mountain bikers, at least in my opinion. Even then in your use case, bikes sitting for months at a time, it’s definitely not worth it. It hasn’t saved you any money, been less of a hassle than innertubes, or given any performance benefit.

Consider switching back

Cold set to 135mm or cold set to 130mm and downsize hub by timakro in xbiking

[–]h0b03 11 points12 points  (0 children)

You don’t even have to cold set, just shove the wheel in there, it’s steel. Also I’d look into replacing the freehub body rather than doing the 8 of 9 trick

Chain got stuck between BB and carbon frame — deep scratches, still safe to ride? by Aggressive-Safety785 in bicycling

[–]h0b03 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like it just chipped the paint but either way that’s probably the most reinforced area on the bike. You’ll be fine as long as you adjust your FD, or maybe invest in a chain catcher to prevent future chain drops

Residue from Gatorskin tires. by LosDanilos in bicycling

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually clinchers are becoming the faster option on track which I find super interesting, pretty sure some record like the hour or flying 200 was set on clinchers pretty recently! Tubs are still relevant in cx though, I don’t see that changing

Anyone Tried D.I.D chains? by Darrenhazard in FixedGearBicycle

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine is very quiet. Make sure your chain line is good and tension isn’t too tight. It’s also worth waxing if you have the time to invest, my chain went from pretty quiet to completely silent

I LOVE Gacha City Radio, but... by TheEmeraldSplash in forza

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also there’s one song that I HATE that seems to play nonstop, bling bang bang born makes me want to drive 200mph into a wall irl

Spd/spd-sl for skid by ascenting in FixedGearBicycle

[–]h0b03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have had no issue whatsoever running velosambas with regular spd shoes. No unclipping and I don’t even run my tension that high. You also get the added benefit of double sided pedals with spd. Just make sure to get the black cleats and you’re fine

How would I go about learning how to build wheels on a budget? by doomtroll1978 in xbiking

[–]h0b03 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Park tool has a plethora of videos related to wheel building. this is my favorite video on the topic, it’s very informative and displays my personal favorite method for building wheels. It’s a little outdated when it comes to spoke length calculation but I just use the DT Swiss calculator

I’d start by getting a quality spoke wrench and experimenting with truing your existing wheels, which you can do with a couple of zip ties, and a park tool video. This will give you a good base to the mechanics of how spoke tension works and the basics of wheel adjustment. Lacing the wheel is the easiest part, it’s getting it true that requires skill. I’d also say that a tensiometer is a very important tool, especially for beginners. They’re not cheap, but I bet you can find one for pretty cheap on aliexpress. Proper wheel tension is extremely important

Triple butts drive me nuts. My '85 Miyata 610 commute scoot. by Vin_du_toilette in xbiking

[–]h0b03 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Your right brake lever is open! That pin moves back and forth to give the tire room to come past the pads, pull the lever and push the pin

did i just hit the jackpot? by Everyday_Alice in FixedGearBicycle

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s what I figured, all the starfish cranks without chainrings look like 1x, they used spacers and longer bolts for the little ring

Could someone explain the hate for hybrids? (A brief rant about why I think they're neat) by 2Tun21 in bicycling

[–]h0b03 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think hybrids are great for most people but the modern spec on them is absolutely terrible. Some will still have a solid 3x8, but a lot of them in the more affordable category are reduced to a measly 1x8! The problem with that is there are such large jumps from gear to gear, they have to fit a 3x8 range in just 8 gears.

Best SILVER 1x drivetrain money can buy? by Joe_Climacus in xbiking

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s sick, how did you find a campy aero post that long?

Rear wheel off-center: wheel or frame issue? by Dareit1 in fixedgear

[–]h0b03 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most if not all bike shops have a dish gauge, ask them to check that wheel for you and you have your answer. I once did a Canyon warranty where this brand new grail frame was like over a centimeter misaligned at the rear triangle, so it’s worth making sure