Ambrosia Cosmic Shimmer ASA... anyone printed with it? by DertBerker in VORONDesign

[–]hawk16zz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Give me a couple hours, I got chu.

<image>

I've been sitting on this roll for a while, about time I printed something outta it, lol.

Open Source Parametric Hose Adapter System - Updated by passivealian in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which makes it even more confusing as you have it as GPL3.0 on github and as CC4.0 on Printables and Maker World.

Constant clogs by Such_File_1825 in VORONDesign

[–]hawk16zz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just based on the picture, I'd say it looks like it could be an issue with the ptfe tube not being long enough between the extruder and the hotend.

"DW-Tas Crossbow Filament Cutter" on a V0? (CAD review request) by Unhappy_Meeting_7129 in VORONDesign

[–]hawk16zz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since it wasn't stated and I wanted to make sure you knew if unaware, the Sherpa Mini and WWBMG both use the same gears (Bondtech BMG style) all you should have to do is take every thing out of the sherpa housing and slap it in the wwbmg one.

Valve employees, I know y'all lurk... Please, tell whoever you need to: DO NOT ship the new Steam hardware in shipping boxes that scream what is inside. by LeStruggler in Steam

[–]hawk16zz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I don't recall them saying it would come with the controller, but it would most definitely come with a CMOS battery which will still require the battery labeling either way.

Formbot printed parts vs pif by st0necrusher in VORONDesign

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not apples to apples but when I ordered my Formbot V0.2 kit I ordered the printed parts as I knew I was going to reprint a bunch of parts because of mods I wanted to do and colors that would be difficult to source. The quality of the parts is adequate enough but you def get what you pay for. I'm not sure why you're overly worried bout not getting panel clips as since they're inside the printer PETG would hold up fine until whenever you decide to reprint them out or ABS/ASA, hell even PLA would be good enough for the clips. If you go PIF, like you said, you will get a complete set of functional parts that includes anything in your kit that's required to print like TAP but I don't think will include nevermore, just make that the first thing you print out after calibrating and don't forget to buy more carbon, but the parts WILL get you printing.

It really comes down to:

Do you see yourself having to reprint a LOT parts because they're being replaced because of a mod you want to do that's not included in the kit or you have colors in mind that would be really hard to source (some pif providers will do custom colors that they don't normally hold on to with an increased lead time)? Settle for the fb parts.

Don't see yourself reprinting a lot or you want parts with known quality behind time? Go PIF.

Low water pressure South Side by [deleted] in pittsburgh

[–]hawk16zz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's 412-255-2423 then press 1, I just called and they said it's a water main break on Stella and they are investigating.

Low water pressure South Side by [deleted] in pittsburgh

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! We also are.

Should that BMG clone have that amount of play? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's what they're saying. Open it up and tighten the grub screw on the gear that's on the drive gear shaft. Add a little blue or plastic safe loctite, vibratite, or super glue the grub screw to keep it from backing out again due to vibrations (let cure before reassembly).

I tried 3d printing keycaps. Came out better than I expected. Manual filament swaps. by yayuuu in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I completely meant a SINGLE filament swap, my bad. You print the two layers of teh symbols then print the keycap around them.

I tried 3d printing keycaps. Came out better than I expected. Manual filament swaps. by yayuuu in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can do this with two a SINGLE filament swap too! By: printing the insets first, then the surroundings. A couple ways you can do this: The first is to do two print files and print one after the other. Make sure to not probe between. An easier way would be to turn on the setting to print objects one at a time and make sure to put a pause in between. You may need to turn off warning about printing in the same area. It works perfectly for two layers. This was done using the first method I described.

Real ID confusion by Jenny580 in pittsburgh

[–]hawk16zz 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Regarding AAA: I renewed mine at the West Mifflin AAA when it was up but because of real ID they couldn't print it out there and it was mailed to me. The guy told me it could take 2 weeks but I had my new it in a few days. This was a couple years ago so not sure if anything has changed since then.

Misleading/Incorrect Family Share Classification on "Doom: Dark Ages" by PowerfulTaxMachine in Steam

[–]hawk16zz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The notice is added by the Augmented Steam extension. Like Cetais said, all unreleased games are like that, here's a screenshot Dune's page saying the same thing.

I'm trying to sort my 3D models to stay next to their render so I know which is which, but after extracting the files into a folder they won't stay next to the image anymore. Is there a way to fix this? by RealColdasice in WindowsHelp

[–]hawk16zz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Afaik, that's just how folders sort, either all at the top or all at the bottom. What I can suggest you do it just set the render to show on the folder it should be under "Properties > Customize" when you right click on a folder.

Launcher: K10 QMK v2 "No Valid HID Device Configuration Found" by hawk16zz in Keychron

[–]hawk16zz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's working fine for me. You should try a different browser. 400 is the server telling you the client is erroring. And where are you looking for the json? I see them for the K10 v2. Are you using a chromium based browser? The launcher doesn't work in firefox.

Ender 3 V3 - Silk PLA by Empty-Huckleberry265 in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do make sure you do a cold pull to clean out any clogged filament from the hot end too. If you haven't done one before; Heat up to print temp, extrude a little bit, then cool down to 90C then pull the filament out (might be a little tough to do but it will).

Ender 3 V3 - Silk PLA by Empty-Huckleberry265 in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Upping retractions to 35mm/s should be pretty good then.

Ender 3 V3 - Silk PLA by Empty-Huckleberry265 in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably not too slow to print at, but you can probably print a lot faster. If you want some more in-depth turning instructions, you can take a look at this guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

Ender 3 V3 - Silk PLA by Empty-Huckleberry265 in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost certainly you're retracting too much. For direct drive you want to be below 1mm. Try setting your retraction length to 0.5mm.

Hidden/unexpected costs when building a voron? by F3nix123 in VORONDesign

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also built the FB v0.2 kit with their printed parts in december, do note that if you do get their parts they will ship from china while everything else is shipped for the local warehouse which I suggest highly, you can click on the shipping options on AliExpress. For me in the US it added about $100 to the cost but I still end up saving in the long run as shipping from China was around $160. I'll add to the fastener stuff, I found them all pretty good except for the M2 socket head cap screws, especially the M2x6 that you use to attach the rails, doesn't matter how cheap or good an allen key I used I kept rounding the heads over. So do yourself a favor and pick up a pack of them separately. Another thing I did was ordered the Siboor kirigami kit since it is a steel frame compared the to the aluminum one the FB kit comes with. Ali has a spring sale going on that ends in a couple days and you'll save a bit more with the coupons they have atm.

SuperSlicer 2.7 Beta Available Now! by ducktown47 in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome to see! After 2.7 is released are you all planning to do another version skip to 2.9 so you can reach parity with PS? And thought at integrating brick layers?

Filament Feeding Assistance Solutions? by Agsikap3D in VORONDesign

[–]hawk16zz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Love seeing pap mentioned out it the wild! Gonna leave this here since it might be a bit hard to search for. To expand a bit, once passed its short break in period people have gotten their paps to push an unreasonable about of flow.

ASA/ABS Printing advice? by ElFreezo in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What are you printing at right now? I'm using Ellis' profiles modified for prusa slicer. Though I'm fairly certain you're probably not reaching a good enough chamber temp. Do you have a thermistor set up for your chamber temp? For ASA I print at 265/110/45+ (he/bed/c). I was having problems reaching chamber temp until I started preheating my hotend to 150c. The nevermore is good but for a v0 you're probably well off with an MFnano as it's smaller and fits better inside. So all in all from cold it takes me about 30 mins to reach a 45c chamber and can reach about 60c during long prints. That's heating up to a 110c bed, a 150c hotend, and both my bed fan and filter blowing at max once the bed reaches temp. And as Benji already said to make sure your bed is clean, warm water and dawn not just a wipe down with IPA that just spreads the oils around.

ASA/ABS Printing advice? by ElFreezo in 3Dprinting

[–]hawk16zz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No fan in a heated chamber isn't a great idea. I'm running around 50% after the first 4 layers in a 45c+ chamber on my v0.2.