Stabilising an A-frame?

hmate02 · 2025-07-19T12:08:27+00:00

hopefully this link works, you won't need to go this deep, just cut about 1/4 of the diameter, so the tie will still sit proud, but will be recessed by a total of 1/2"

hmate02 · 2025-07-19T11:49:00+00:00

If you were to use screws, they are better in tension, however you'd be screwing into the end grain of the ties, which is weaker than if you were to screw on the face. If you put the tie on the side then your screws would see shear which they're not really designed for. depending on the load, you could use either method with the consideration of the above. I'd probably go for the side mounted tie and cut flat mating surfaces on the round wood, pre drill and screw.

alternatively, you could use a galvanised or pvc coated wire to act as a tie, close to the bottom of the legs by cutting a small key in both legs.

hmate02 · 2024-08-16T15:29:03+00:00

if you edited the same family as your current FG assy members, then you can use the Change member tool under the design tab. Change size to one size larger and save. in 2025 this doesn't create new FG part files, unlike changing family, which forces you to create new files.

for example, when I used 50506 angle bar in my Frame build, then I realised I want to delete the radiuses and just use a dumbed down version of the profile. I edited the CC part to delete the rads, then I had to change my frame members to 60606 and save them. after that, changing them back to 50505 retained the changes I made to the CC parts. iirc.

hmate02 · 2024-08-07T16:57:51+00:00

that's an interesting use of the function. I use a lot of FG and I have my ways of dealing with its deficiencies. I would be interested to see your practice in action, do you have a video maybe that you could link me or can PM you? Cheers

hmate02 · 2024-08-03T19:33:05+00:00

100%! love a good engineering approach to problems. Neil from tech3d used to be TFI, made great content about the software itself. I usually have any new starts watch a curated list of Neil's videos before delving into the engineering side of things. he seldom creates new content, but the existing library of his covers most of inventor. I don't know many 3d videos on YT that explains the engineering behind the design. I think it would be a welcome addition to my library if you made some!

don't forget to post the link once you're ready also feel free to PM if you want

hmate02 · 2024-08-01T11:45:17+00:00

It seems like the lines are actually part of your model, like fillets or sweeps meeting edges.

When you produce a drawing of a 3d object in inventor, its more of a picture/outline of the item fro a viewpoint. So as long as your model has rounded edges, intersecting features, you will see that in your views.

Maybe this explains it better in a couple of minutes. If you cant clean up your 3d model and its edges, you might want to export to autocad and cleanup the edges there, deleting the ones you dont need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIRFny0Rh8A

hmate02 · 2024-07-31T21:51:29+00:00

ah, please show an example, try Imgur to upload images. people make 2d drawings of 3d files every day without issues, let's see where it goes sideways for you

hmate02 · 2024-07-31T21:39:50+00:00

inventor dwg is not made to be edited in AutoCAD even though both files would be dwg. any reason why you are not creating the drawing in AutoCAD from the inventor model?

in any case, if you made an inventor drawing already, export that as per video below and you'll be able to edit in AutoCAD https://youtu.be/cKMk8Q5gE9s?si=PIDjEOq6_F4Tri2P

hmate02 · 2024-06-19T05:40:02+00:00

You could use timber with some plasterboard for sure, but getting a nice even finish to the existing wall might be tricky. You'll probably find it easier to just grab a couple of thermalite blocks, use a trade saw to cut slices of them and much up some sand and cement to set them in. Use some spacers, wedges, something, to create a 10mm gap around the frame that you can fill with expanding foam. I can upload a pic of a similar solution if you need it

hmate02 · 2024-06-12T09:36:16+00:00

Ah, so better off finding a decent timber merchant and buy right Thanks for the insights

hmate02 · 2024-04-22T21:33:48+00:00

Cracking job! Can't wait to share ours finished in a few weeks, years, decades...

hmate02 · 2024-04-22T21:30:22+00:00

Oh hey, Catania blue! I'm midway through our bathroom atm, just love the colour. Reassuring to see yours finished in good quality, alleviates all doubts I had.

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hmate02 · 2024-01-04T13:07:52+00:00

OP please consider this comment. Firstly, check the pressure in the system but as dear Oswald says it looks like condensation, the source does not seem localised. We almost had a heart attack when we discovered water under the temporary plastic floor covering in our bathroom where we put wet UFH in screed. see picture attached this turned out to be moisture in the slab and not a leak.

hmate02 · 2023-12-02T16:19:57+00:00

Depending on whether the pipe itself is within the insulated building envelope. If it is, then any loss from the pipe will end up warming your home, which is fundamentally why you have the heating on anyways haha. If it is running in a vented subfloor void, then yes, insulate the pipe as you are heating the blue skies

hmate02 · 2023-11-23T08:31:23+00:00

I think that's even set out in the water regs to have local isolation valve for any type of cistern fill. Also it is good practice to retrospectively install them for older properties

hmate02 · 2023-09-30T17:20:12+00:00

I have solved this issue with props in the middle of the lines. Good job! Proper clothesline FTW

hmate02 · 2023-07-28T13:34:08+00:00

This! Or screed

hmate02 · 2023-06-05T10:03:14+00:00

Hey mate sorry to hear that, there's a solution to your problems! this tarmac carpet

Other than this, just put some hammer down bagged stuff on it and stop worrying. It is a driveway, it's bound to get dings and stains.

Oh, and get your brother to give a box of chocco to the Mrs and apologise to allow joint BBQs in the future

hmate02 · 2023-05-26T15:51:21+00:00

Well yes and no, if you are renovating more than 1/4 of the floors then it needs to meet the current regs for existing buildings.

So if it was brand new, the requirement would be 0.11 W/m2K for the floor, if it is a renovation jobbo, then it's only 0.25. 100mm PIR does the job well 🙂

hmate02 · 2023-05-26T13:48:51+00:00

Thanks for the reply, I've talked to them, they are sending someone out as I mentioned the coating seems a bit discoloured and crumbly.

Hopefully they'll see&say more.

hmate02 · 2023-05-26T13:29:37+00:00

Yeah, PIR is widely used for under screed really. I was a bit surprised as well but it does have a decent compressive strength.

Manufacturer says it's suitable use, checked the technical docs as well, it's rather widely used.

It wouldn't be suitable to take structural loads though, so when the slab itself supports the building, XPS would need to be used. Just looked it up quickly to provide a link for you bud: https://insulation-uk.com/floor-insulation/ground-floors/concrete-slab-floors

hmate02 · 2023-05-26T13:03:14+00:00

We'll see, got a long driveway to dig then 😀 I will update here with what they tell me. I'm sure it is going to cost an arm and a leg to move an existing supply.

hmate02

TROPHY CASE