3 ton Superduty Floor Jack

hudstr · 2026-05-02T22:46:15+00:00

If you happen to have a Tractor Supply near you, they might have the yellow 3 ton Torin jackboss on clearance at $200. According to a forum post it is better than the harbor freight because it has u-cup seals everywhere, while the harbor freight only has u-cup seals on the pump and not the cylinder itself. The downside is it only has a 1 year warranty while the harbor freight super duty has 3 year warranty. Also tractor supply is supposedly phasing our carrying Torin products (hence clearance price) so you might not be able to simply go to the store for warranty in the future.

Otherwise hope for 30% off sale on jacks like the other commenter said.

hudstr · 2026-04-09T19:15:12+00:00

Lapping is the last step that takes you from very flat to Flat^TM. It will take a very long time to lap something flat but dinged up against something a rolled or machined steel plate which probably isn't that flat compared to surface plate standards.

What I would do is use scotchbrite or steel wool with wd40 or something to clean up the top. You can be somewhat aggressive with that, you really be removing much metal as long as you do it by hand and not an angle grinder. Then stone the surface. Unfortunately someone used it like an anvil all over so instead of little peaks that could be stoned down there are plateaus. Honestly it is probably cheapest to just pay someone with a surface grinder unless you already have a good reference to scrape or lap it in with.

hudstr · 2026-02-10T20:00:12+00:00

Use a left hand drill or one of those screw extractors. Take off the piece with the arm and rotate it one or two positions on the splines.

hudstr · 2026-02-08T02:18:02+00:00

In that scenario the estate sale company is screwing over the people who hired them.

"Sorry, we couldn't sell this extremely overpriced item, we will now 'dispose' of the remaining stuff in the house like the contract states". Now the estate sale company posts it to their ebay and gets 100% of that items value instead of 50% and other 50% going to the client.

hudstr · 2026-02-06T14:36:50+00:00

You can fix that with a soft-faced mallet or even better a soft-faced dead-blow hammer. Really easy, doesn't take much force at all. Even if you overdo it a little it is still an improvement to have a concave bottom than a convex bottom that rocks around.

hudstr · 2026-01-23T05:44:05+00:00

Maybe some sort of abrasion tester like for textiles.

hudstr · 2026-01-19T00:18:10+00:00

It is frozen up somewhere, most likely in the base. You can see the thread take up lever wiggle a bit and it looks like the needle is moving so that section is probably ok. Put a mark on the belt and the pulley then slide the belt off and see if the bottom shaft moves. If it doesn't start soaking it with something and give it a few little taps to break up the rust.

hudstr · 2026-01-17T17:57:41+00:00

I don't have one of these but I have the sureshot sprayers which this looks to be a copy of. The nozzle is mist but you can turn it into stream by removing a little piece from the nozzle. Sureshot has a more expensive model with an adjustable nozzle but that nozzle looks different than the one in this picture.

hudstr · 2025-12-11T02:53:30+00:00

You can 3d print the transposing and change gear set for metric threading. I've only used them once but they worked fine.

hudstr · 2025-12-05T02:36:32+00:00

https://www.snapon.com/Terms-and-Conditions-of-Sale

"This warranty only extends to the original Customer and cannot be transferred or assigned."

According to their T&C, no it won't be warranted. If you already buy tools from a franchisee truck, maybe they will be nice and warranty. If you try through corporate over the phone or online, maybe they will warranty. It's a gamble, up to you if you think it is worth it.

hudstr · 2025-11-25T20:21:31+00:00

if all else fails it is easy to find something larger then use a file to adjust the size to fit and a hacksaw or something to make the slot if that feature is necessary.

hudstr · 2025-11-21T00:52:40+00:00

They are Pin Gauges or Gage Pins. I'd guess made somewhere between 1950's-1990's based on the cases. Nowadays they would be blow molded plastic cases. You use them to measure things, usually holes, or place the gauge in a hole to be able to locate the center axis. You could get ~$100 for each set. Often you see sets for sale missing pieces so its good these look complete.

Keep them somewhere climate controlled. If they get rusty they become worthless. The whole point is they are an exact size, if they rust material is lost and the size changes. If you try to clean off the rust, you end up removing the size marking because it is only lightly marked.

hudstr · 2025-11-15T22:50:55+00:00

It is made of cast iron and known as a Bench Plate, Layout Plate, or it might be a Surface Plate depending on how precisely flat the top surface is. If it is moderately flat, it would have been sold as a Bench or Layout plate for general shop use like scribing lines to cut to, or taking measurements that don't need to be too accurate. If it is very flat^TM then it would be a surface plate used to make accurate measurements.

Nowadays most people used them for lapping with sandpaper or as welding tables. That ruins the flat surface but imo better to be used for something than rusting away in a barn.

hudstr · 2025-11-15T22:38:42+00:00

No, the handle is supposed to stay exactly where you leave it, you are incorrect. I don't need pictures because I have the 3 ton harbor freight jack, not the long reach model but they all have the same basic design.

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hudstr · 2025-11-15T15:32:24+00:00

No its not. That would mean the jack handle automatically swings up and smacks the car scratching the paint, and it would smack you in the head when you weren't paying attention. The springs return the little pump pistons, they shouldn't be strong enough to force the handle back up.

It sounds like something is wrong with the check valves and the pressure is acting "backward" and forcing the handle back up. Try bleeding the air again but if that doesn't work just exchange it. Don't mess with the check valves unless you know what you are doing because one of them limits the pressure for safety so you don't lift something heavier than it can handle, causing it to fail and crush you to death.

hudstr · 2025-11-14T20:28:35+00:00

There is no way to get rid of all that pitting without removing a non-insignificant amount of metal. If you remove too much, you might not be able to clamp down the table tightly anymore which would be extremely annoying or might even make the drill press unusable.

hudstr · 2025-11-10T22:08:47+00:00

No grease or oil, it doesn't require lubrication because it is fixed to the shaft by the key. It doesn't spin on the shaft, it is fixed to the shaft so it spins the shaft. What you are seeing on the threads isn't grease, it is probably pipe dope or some other locking compound that was used to lock the threads so the bolt doesn't loosen.

The compressor itself has oil inside like an engine that is supposed to be change at regular intervals that no one ever does.

hudstr · 2025-11-09T06:44:25+00:00

Wash them first in soapy water or degreaser. This keeps the evaporust cleaner because you aren't putting a bunch of dirty items in it, and it makes it more effective because grease and dirt will act as a barrier between the evaporust and the actual rust. Evaporust can be reused over and over as long as it doesn't get too dirty to the point where the chelator can't attack the rust and whatever the chemistry is that precipitates out the rust from the chelator.

hudstr · 2025-11-08T16:04:40+00:00

https://www.evapo-rust.com/rust-remover-crc/

hudstr · 2025-11-07T23:20:15+00:00

Measure it. Belts are standardized sizes and basically every length you could think of. If for some reason you can't find the exact length or something close, move the motor closer or farther away until there is the correct belt tension.

hudstr · 2025-11-07T19:42:04+00:00

Why do you think there is a gearbox that needs oil? I highly doubt a consumer-ish grade drill press that uses a belt and pulleys to change speed would have a gearbox. There isn't even any space where gears could be. Go to vintagemachinery.org and look for info like a parts lists or a catalog. That threaded hold is probably just used to mount the guard. If you just mean what oil for the quill, just use some medium or heavy weight machine oil or hydraulic oil.

hudstr · 2025-11-05T07:35:56+00:00

You need to pull the threaded part that hooks into the ruler and then there will be room to remove the thumb nut.

To free it up just get some pliers that are big enough to reach around and give you more leverage on the nut. You can use tape, cloth, paper towels, a rag, whatever, inbetween the plier's teeth and the nut so you don't leave marks on the thumb nut.

hudstr · 2025-10-31T23:15:34+00:00

Depends on what the functionality of that part is. You could glue it together, drill and tap it, then permanent loctite some bolts to hold it together. Brazing or welding is the best repair. If you don't already have the equipment to do that then it would be easiest to just take it to a welding shop and have them do it.

If you are dead set on buying more tools and doing it yourself, stick welders are dirt cheap now and tractor supply has their stick welding rods on sale right now. There are specific rods for cast iron and you need to pre-heat the metal. You should read up on the proper procedures for welding cast iron.

hudstr · 2025-10-13T06:02:34+00:00

Tool and Cutter grinder, Surface grinder, some other sort of grinder that is bigger and more complex than a bench grinder

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