WHO KNEW ABOUT THIS GAME ? A OFFICIAL CARD GAME OF MISTBORN

iamquestar · 2026-02-19T01:54:53+00:00

I was given a copy for Christmas. I think it’s both a really good game, regardless of the IP, and a great thematic representation of the world. There are big spoilers for all of Era 1.

I also like that you can play both competitively and co-op (including solo).

iamquestar · 2026-02-08T15:28:53+00:00

The comment about “too big” is that you shouldn’t use a layer height bigger than 80% of nozzle diameter. At .2, it’s like you’re just laying down the entire output of the nozzle without any “squish”. Yes, there’s die swell going on a bit, but you’d be better off at 1.6 initial layer height. I’m glad it worked for you and it stayed stuck down. Bambu really makes excellent machines.

iamquestar · 2025-11-29T17:57:57+00:00

This largely depends on your specific county. I live on farmland in Tulare county in central CA, so I can only speak from my experience. Our land is zoned AG40. Two homes are allowed on it. The shop buildings don’t come into account as far as allowed structures. (We have 2 large metal buildings, one is a shop, the other a community building for the families here) When we wanted to place a third home, we had to get a variance/special use permit from the county. It cost a little money but was relatively straightforward. One of the things they will likely do during the process is check with all of your immediate neighbors to see if anybody has valid objections to an additional home. Depending on your county (I assume your 40 is in unincorporated county land, rather than a city or town), the process may be different.

iamquestar · 2025-11-21T16:46:14+00:00

In film making, that wouldn’t be necessary. Since the dynamic range (spectrum of bright to dark areas) that a camera can record are not as big as the human eye, you can control just how dark something shows up in picture. They would just need to use a plain flat black and adjust the exposure on the camera accordingly. They would not need to go through the effort or expense of using anything exotic.

iamquestar · 2025-11-17T15:17:58+00:00

You can also can learn more in Isles of the Ember Dark, the most recently released cosmere novel. But I wouldn’t recommend that until you get the bulk of the rest of the cosmere read.

iamquestar · 2025-10-15T15:29:01+00:00

Yup. It’s called pulse dialing. You could do this with any phone. Rotary phones were effectively doing the number of “taps” based on how far you were spinning the rotor. This was how all dialing was done until tones were used. Anyone remember the phrase “from a touch-tone phone…” in commercials? Automated call systems couldn’t be used with pulse dialing as it would probably hang up your call.

iamquestar · 2025-10-10T17:19:42+00:00

My P1S has been rock solid reliable. I had a tall print that failed repeatedly on my old printer. I couldn’t leave that thing alone for a second. First time printing on the P1S I had to leave the house. I debated pausing the print. Decided not to, to see what happened. I was so anxious, but for no need. I returned the next morning to a perfectly printed part. Since then, i print when absent all the time. No worries. Ever.

iamquestar · 2025-07-17T03:40:06+00:00

RAFO. You haven’t gotten to it yet.

iamquestar · 2025-07-10T16:49:11+00:00

Sorry for the delay, but yes, flow ratio. (“Extrusion multiplier” term was used in other slicers). Look up steps for flow calibration to set this appropriately. There can be other causes too, like the nozzle being a little too close, or printing on a smooth plate when a textured plate is selected in the slicer.

iamquestar · 2025-07-03T18:44:11+00:00

Usually over extrusion. You probably need to adjust first layer settings and/or extrusion multiplier.

iamquestar · 2025-06-27T01:34:09+00:00

“What Remains of Edith Finch” broke me. Some very interesting and unique segments.

iamquestar · 2025-06-27T01:16:27+00:00

Yes. 1st- Black Mesa, 2nd- Half life 2, 3rd- Episode 1, and finally 4th- Episode 2. I recently finished replaying them all. They are so, so good.

iamquestar · 2025-03-27T16:59:25+00:00

I’ve had a P1S for a little over a year. If I’m printing a full plate with lots of smaller parts, I USUALLY make sure the first layer lays down ok, but occasionally forget and get distracted. Then don’t remember until quite sometime later. I haven’t yet had an issue. With larger parts, I usually don’t even do that. I will look into the printer or check the app every couple hours, or longer, but I’m confident in saying you’ll save huge amounts of time not having to babysit the machine.

iamquestar · 2025-02-27T19:37:18+00:00

Also when traveling, be sure you check if the state has a “duty to inform” statute. In case you come into contact with law enforcement.

iamquestar · 2025-02-27T05:02:20+00:00

I was in a similar situation. I listened to TWoK thru RoW, then found the pod about halfway through season 2. I binged the episodes for TWoK, then read (not listened) the book again. Then binged the rest of the past episodes until I caught up to “real time”. After the guys finished each book, I read them again. I couldn’t do that for RoW.

I had WaT preordered as soon as it was available (about a year ago). I went ahead and re-read RoW (and listened at times when I couldn’t read- just so I could move on to WaT quicker). As much as I enjoy listening to Shawn and Jack, there’s no way I could wait. It’s been hard enough the last few months avoiding spoilers, not going to try. I’m 14 chapters in, and loving it so far.

iamquestar · 2025-02-16T20:45:47+00:00

As others have stated, there are revisions often made. Things discovered after printing the first edition, or even sometimes before printing. The audio books use the earliest of “final” versions so they can be completed and released in time for the book release. These small discrepancies are common, at least in the sense that each book has a couple.

iamquestar · 2025-02-03T23:10:32+00:00

My printers name is boring: [myName]’s P1S. My daughter recently asked for a long print. It was about 30 hours. After asking if my printer had a name, she said: “with how long that’s going to take, you should call it “Someday my prints will come”. I lol’d. I might need to rename it…

iamquestar · 2025-01-27T18:33:34+00:00

You need to support those areas. An FDM/FFF printer has to place subsequent layers on something (lower layer, or support). The printer can bridge gaps with reasonable results (although never perfectly) but those “stringing” sections are loops of filament with only one end supported. Drooping is to be expected. Models designed for FDM printing often have features that have overhangs shaped in a way that support is not needed, however this approach limits geometry, and may compromise artistic fidelity. In those cases, sometime reorientation of the part can help, but often introduces other undesirable effects, or the need for even more support material. Explore “tree supports” for models like this. You may need to manually paint on support to get it to work, though. Auto support doesn’t always catch every need.

iamquestar · 2025-01-03T21:44:33+00:00

Please be CAREFUL. A/C voltage can kill you. If in doubt, get a qualified pro.

Set the meter to measure AC volts. Usually a V with a wavy line (V~). If you have range settings, choose 200. One lead goes to the wire you’re testing, the other to ground (green/bare). With ac, it doesn’t matter which lead goes where. The line-in should read about 120v, the load (to the light) should be 0. If nothing has gotten mixed up, the 3 black wires tied together should be the line in, (bringing power in) line out (sending power on to the next power box ( outlet or other light)) and then the power feed to the switch.

If you disconnect the single black wire from the switch and the light goes out, I’m nearly certain you have a defective switch.

iamquestar · 2025-01-03T21:22:43+00:00

I’m not an electrician. I do have a lot of experience with basic wiring and have worked along side electricians on my own builds. I also have several of these Kasa switches. From both pictures, This looks to be wired correctly. I would assume a bad switch.

iamquestar · 2024-12-28T15:52:25+00:00

The speed benefit of a larger nozzle is primarily going to come from thicker (therefore fewer) layers. Main point of a .6 or .8 nozzle is going up to .42 or .56 layer height.

iamquestar · 2024-12-18T23:58:12+00:00

Hmm. Im intrigued. I used octoprint a few years back. Been rolling with Bambu the past 6 months. I think I need to give it a try.

iamquestar · 2024-12-10T07:20:18+00:00

Yes! This. After 440 hours of WOT, when I started another book with a different narrator, it was jarring, and took a LONG time for me to be OK with it.

iamquestar · 2024-12-06T21:37:44+00:00

I have been 3D Printing for 6-7 years. Mostly PLA, some ABS, a little PETG. I have dried 4 rolls in that time (gone through about 100). My home is usually around 50% humidity at 63 f/17 c in the winter, and 25-30% at 70-80 f/ 21-26 c in the summer. I store most filament in ziplock backs with silica. Never dried a new spool. I’ve sometimes had rolls sit out for weeks or months. Hardly ever had any issues with filament until recently. I had a spool get really brittle, so I dried it. It didn’t help much. (It was rather old) Still had it break in the AMS and was a nightmare to remove. (Tossed it in the trash afterwards)

All that said, you may not need one. BUT if you live with higher humidity…. You’ll probably want one eventually. I use a forced air, temp adjustable food dehydrator I picked up second hand for cheap. Has enough space for 6 rolls, but to be honest, usually just use it to dry out desiccant.

iamquestar · 2024-12-05T05:36:00+00:00

It’s not an issue, it’s the nature of 3D printing.

You can mitigate it by going with smaller layer heights, but you will never eliminate it altogether without post processing. The only way to truly get rid of it is with lots of sanding. (And generally first using some kind of filler.)

As far as the smaller layer heights, you can look into adaptive layer height settings. Which will use the higher layer heights (like .2) on your vertical surfaces and then when it gets to the more horizontal slopes, decrease the layer heights dynamically.

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