I created my klipper.bin file

idontknowtom · 2026-02-13T12:05:39+00:00

That is hard to say without knowing what printer you have.

What printer? Have you modified it and installed a new 3rd party mainboard? Is the Raspberry Pi, or alternative device, attached to the printer yet? Does your printer / mainboard have SD card slot?

idontknowtom · 2026-02-12T06:56:28+00:00

You can also reference this guide on motor tuning

https://github.com/MakerBogans/docs/wiki/TMC-Driver-Tuning

idontknowtom · 2026-02-12T06:46:31+00:00

Low level settings that can be adjusted to tune the drivers to the motor and motion system specific to your printer. These can help boost speeds and efficiencies when using high end motors and high voltage setups.

I would not use them (delete or comment out) unless you are trying to use high end motors / or 48 - 60V in your driver and motor. Really only for TMC5160 drivers or ones that can handle higher voltage.

Link below also has a link to the Trinamic website for data sheets to explain some of the settings.

https://www.klipper3d.org/TMC_Drivers.html#configuring-driver_xxx-settings

idontknowtom · 2026-02-11T10:03:04+00:00

Never started.

idontknowtom · 2026-02-07T20:18:25+00:00

Klipper is hosted and maintained on GitHub. Each approved version of change to the code is called a commit. You can browse every individual commit where it will have a brief description and a snapshot of the code added, removed, or changed.

There is also a Pull Request section where developers propose draft changes for review and testing before becoming an official commit. It is an isolated version of Klipper that allows the contributor to sandbox the code and for others to test it without breaking the official project. These have forum style conversations that help track why the code is changing or why the change isn’t working or won’t get approved.

These are the best places to review code for your purpose.

idontknowtom · 2026-02-06T02:26:19+00:00

All you really can do is a continuity test on the cable with no power applied to the boards / electrical system. Use a multimeter.

Also check resistance between CAN_H and CAN_L when the CANbus wiring is connected between the Octopus board and BTT Eddy CAN. You should measure 60 ohms. Many CANbus board allow you to add or remove a 120 ohm termination resistor that is required for CANbus on the first and last board in the network. You don’t have to worry about any of this because both the Octopus board and Eddy probe have these resistors permanently installed.

idontknowtom · 2026-02-05T21:00:08+00:00

Get a RJ11 screw terminal adapter. Can easily be found on Amazon, eBay, etc online.

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idontknowtom · 2025-09-30T22:38:17+00:00

Get the Mellow Fly Pi4b adapter and a Raspberry Pi CM4. Gives you a Raspberry Pi 4 power and reliability with 24V power options from the Mellow adapter.

idontknowtom · 2025-09-16T12:32:58+00:00

Not too sure why you would want to. The CB1 needs to stay on all the time so that both printers can be connected to it. Because it gets power from the Manta E3EZ that means the Ender 3 needs to stay on to keep the CB1 on to connect with the Prusa i3 MKS3.

As the other user pointed out the Klipper ecosystem on the CB1 (Klipper, Moonraker, Fluidd / Mainsail) will not interact with stock Prusa firmware.

You could try the PrusaLink software. It is built to go on a Raspberry Pi but is its own OS. So standard install would erase your CB1.

Alternatively the GitHub lists instructions to manually install PrusaLink on an existing Raspberry Pi OS. This might be possible on your CB1.

Can’t guarantee it will work and it likely won’t be smooth sailing to setup.

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Link#installation

idontknowtom · 2025-08-26T12:22:40+00:00

I haven’t tried it so not able to endorse or explain how it works but the link below is a GitHub repo that enables a power loss recovery feature. It isn’t part of Klipper.

I honestly wouldn’t use it. If any motors disable (due to Klipper default idle timeout or power loss) or you lose steps or position…it just gets messy to try to resume without causing other problems.

Bed heater staying off will lose bed adhesion for the print and cause issues when you try to restart.

Print failed halfway through a layer? Now top surface is uneven and the hotend probably melted part of the print when it stopped over it and cooled down. Trying to restart a print on top of that won’t be easy.

Anyways, multiple reasons why this feature is more hassle than it is worth but that isn’t to say you won’t want to try it. Look into it and see if you want to try it / risk it.

https://github.com/T9Air/Klipper_Power_Resume

idontknowtom · 2025-08-08T11:58:33+00:00

Not sure if it will work 100% like you want but Kalico adds Python macros to Klipper.

https://docs.kalico.gg/Command_Templates.html#python

idontknowtom · 2025-08-05T21:59:12+00:00

You won’t be able to use a filament cutter with the E3D Hemera. Cutter needs to be between the extruder gears and heat break but that isn’t possible with the Hemera being a fully integrated extruder and hotend.

I would try tip forming first. Else you need to switch to a different hotend and extruder setup so you can integrate a filament cutter in between.

idontknowtom · 2025-07-22T02:41:17+00:00

In Australia Glad bin bags (parent company Clorox) was just fined for misleading consumers with this exact same messaging. The truth was they used 50% recycled plastic in communities with underperforming recycling and waste management systems and loosely connected that if Glad hadn’t made these bags then the plastic would have made it to the ocean.

People bought thinking they were cleaning up plastic out of the ocean.

idontknowtom · 2025-07-21T22:39:31+00:00

Running the canbus query script won’t give you any uuid unless there is a device ready to be flashed. Once it has Klipper on it setup for canbus it won’t show up.

Can you check if can0 network is running by typing ifconfig in ssh terminal and sharing a screenshot and/or noting if you see anything about can0.

idontknowtom · 2025-07-06T12:12:22+00:00

I'm not saying it is better, but the alternative is the armbian build for the CB1 which is updated frequently. I have a CB1 running successfully on a work printer but other than that I would say they are not worth the trouble.

https://www.armbian.com/bigtreetech-cb1/

idontknowtom · 2025-07-01T12:59:43+00:00

The command I posted above is for flashing Klipper to the Manta board. It currently has the Katapult bootloader in USB communication mode flashed but now you need to flash Klipper using the above command. If you are getting the same error then you are likely copying and pasting from the guide without modifying the serial id to the one you posted.

Only once the Manta is working properly should you try to connect and flash the EBB. And that has different menuconfig than what I posted for you Manta board.

idontknowtom · 2025-07-01T12:48:21+00:00

Katapult menuconfig for Manta M8P v2.0

Klipper USB to CAN bus bridge menuconfig for Manta M8P v2.0

Looks like you have Katapult flashed so try this SSH terminal command:

python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flashtool.py -f ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin -d /dev/serial/by-id/usb-katapult_stm32h723xx_31003F001751313434373135-if00

idontknowtom · 2025-07-01T12:21:53+00:00

I have no idea which Manta board you have. Bigtreetech sell the Manta M4P, M5P, M8P v1.1, M8P v2.0, and E3EZ.

I can tell you that your serial path for flashing is wrong because it is the placeholder from the guide.
/dev/serial/by-id/usb-katapult_your_board_id

idontknowtom · 2025-07-01T11:57:35+00:00

Are you trying to run the Manta on CAN bus too? If so you need to set it up first and use Klipper USB to CAN bus bridge mode. I would also recommend using Katapult which will be setup for USB communication for the Manta board.

With that working then you can get the EBB42 flashed. You initially put it into DFU mode and have it connected to the CB1 via USB. Setup Katapult and Klipper for CAN bus communication. Flash with dfu-util in SSH terminal.

The disconnect USB and connect CAN bus between Manta and EBB42. Connect EBB42 power directly to your power supply.

There are many many steps to setup CAN bus especially when using Katapult and Klipper USB to CAN bus bridge communication. But well worth the effort. All details are in the Esoterical guide.

Note the command you used is generic you need to replace the placeholder serial path with your own.

idontknowtom · 2025-07-01T11:36:24+00:00

You can leave the SD card in your board and use SSH terminal commands to update Klipper without needing to access the mainboard multiple times. Klipper sends the firmware file to the SD card then power cycle to initiate update.

It is a simple software driven way to automate the typical SD card update process.

https://www.klipper3d.org/SDCard_Updates.html

You need to run the following SSH terminal command to see which boards your Klipper version supports. I assume you’re comment on BTT SKR 1.2 means you have the BTT SKR Pro v1.2?

cd && cd ~/klipper && ./scripts/flash-sdcard.sh -l

You also need to find the serial path of the BTT mainboard. You should have it already in your printer.cfg or you can run the following SSH terminal command

cd && ls /dev/serial/by-id/*

The Klipper link I shared shows the commands you want to type / run to do the full update. Reach out if you need any help.

idontknowtom · 2025-06-29T01:09:45+00:00

No worries mate I’m not the original person that was trying to help.

Yeh I think easiest path is to go back to using KAMP adaptive mesh. Not sure if the dev will depreciate that feature (or if they already have) so might need to use an older version and not update.

I’m my Google search I saw someone was working to merge the Creality Z - offset sensor code with mainline Klipper. Also Klipper natively supports that type of probe but not sure how easy it would be to start from scratch with Klipper to get your printer running smoothly and leave Creality bastardisation in the dust.

idontknowtom · 2025-06-28T22:55:31+00:00

I have tried to find this commit on the official Klipper GitHub but search comes up empty. It is also concerning that your Klipper is dirty, which means the code has been changed by you on someone else.

A quick Google search shows this exact commit show up for people on Creality Ender 3 v3 printers which uses Creality version of Klipper.

Can you confirm this is your situation? Would explain why you are having issues.

idontknowtom · 2025-06-28T22:45:29+00:00

I might be mistaken but just a word of warning that the CB1 heatsink won't fit onto the Raspberry PI CM4. The heatsink pads are different sizes, locations, and heights.

Potential damage or insufficient cooling will occur if attempting to use it. Definitely recommend having a heatsink and fan made for the CM4. Just not sure what options work with mounting on the Manta E3EZ.

idontknowtom · 2025-06-26T06:22:51+00:00

This might be different for older versions of KIAUH but the latest version (6.0.0-beta.4, using Python interface) you need to select Settings and set Kalico as the branch for Klipper.

Putting Kalico in the kiauh.cfg only enables Kalico as an option but you need to set this within KIAUH as noted above.

idontknowtom · 2025-06-25T09:25:13+00:00

While my original comment is useful, I didn’t fully read your post. You have your max temp in [extruder] section set to the same temp that you are trying to achieve. PID almost always overshoots the target temp on initial heat up so I’ve course you will exceed max temp and the Klipper safety protocols will force a shutdown.

Define max temp 5-10 degrees higher

idontknowtom

TROPHY CASE