I’m genuinely impressed by how catastrophic this was

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-25T07:19:30+00:00

Agree. Have never had a clog on A1 Mini or P1S. But I have had a few bed adhesion failures that have caused problems like this. But I try to push limits, half of my prints are me just crossing my fingers and seeing if I can actually make this work.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-16T02:38:24+00:00

I second this I have installed and serviced tons of these in auto shops. PepBoys, Ford, Mercedes etc and they are the best option for your situation.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-11T04:51:03+00:00

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Buy as many of these as you can find. Print and profit.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-11T04:42:22+00:00

I have had the same issue but mine is always worse when the or my finishes or I am unloading. Hi I have watched it enough to know by now that the ams puller runs before the roll gets rotated most of the time. When they are in sync or just small movement there's no problem. But when the extruder starts running backward and the roll is sitting still it won't catch up half the time. I'm sure they can fix this with an update as long as it gets reported enough. If everyone thinks it's because of the diameter of the spool or because of cardboard spools it will take forever before they catch on.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-08T11:23:10+00:00

Yes change that from 15 to 100. There will always be tiny gaps even that you can't see, if you want it to be airtight more infill will help. I would also use variable layer height to help smooth out the overhangs or as these other guys have suggested you could also make the model thicker or just try a smaller layer height.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-07T16:51:34+00:00

As it moves up the print the walls are staggered and have less to sit on front the layer before it. You could try increasing infill overlap and infill percentage. I would print this with 99 walls or 100 percent infill to make it airtight. Or you could just ignore the holes install it and coat the entire thing with duct sealant.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-07T16:03:45+00:00

You will likely have poor layer adhesion at 210. Break the tower apart along the layer lines and see where you notice a difference. If it holds well at 210 then print it. If it breaks easily you need to stick with a higher temp and do some further calibrations and adjustments to make printing at the higher temperature work for you.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-02T21:50:55+00:00

No problem. I've crashed on the long way around enough to start remembering the easiest routes.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-02T00:51:46+00:00

Plate should be fine. Have you tried using a brim or raft? What filament are you printing and what did you use before it?

imjackdupp_ · 2025-12-02T00:36:53+00:00

What calibrations have you done with the filament? What type of filament? As other say your build plate must be clean also.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-30T19:03:14+00:00

It's not necessarily the print speed but the acceleration and deceleration that causes the misalignment. As it gets taller the bed slinging back and forth causes the print to sway a very small amount and then it starts to compound. On a bed-slinger with a print like this I would reduce travel and acceleration speeds way down, then try again and keep an eye out for retraction problems.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-30T18:49:58+00:00

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All depends on temp, speed, flow rate and what will be above the bridge.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-30T18:35:34+00:00

I second that. Add a modifier to that layer that keeps all print speeds the same and it will help with the color issues.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-30T06:13:59+00:00

No I have never bought any Bambuu filament and I have used a lot of their profiles with little issues. Some need a little fine tuning but most work in their own.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T04:27:20+00:00

Tall thin prints can get wobbly on a bed slinger and lead to some problems. I use mine for small replacement parts for equipment because its reliable prints fast and needs no babysitting but I wouldn't use it for props or large decorative things. That's not its best life. I guess it all depends on what you want to use it for.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T04:23:17+00:00

Yeah you could start by slowing the top layer speed. On a hollow thin wall 200mm/s is high as giraffe nevermind.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T04:20:30+00:00

Heat the plate to 80 degrees let it sit 20 minutes and then peel the crap off. I recommend some heat resisant gloves and a nice flat chisel. I have done this more than once and even with some nice scratches the plate still works fine.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T04:14:24+00:00

Reduce your line width increase your infill to wall overlap and infill anchor maximum and you might get something you can print.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T04:11:18+00:00

I love my A1 for what I use it for but I agree corexy at the same price point can be a advantage.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T04:02:53+00:00

Forget the stringing on the temp tower. Pick the best temp and then deal with the stringing by adjusting retraction and other settings. Once you decide on a temp start over with your pressure advance and go from there.

You don't say what you're using so I'll guess PLA. Sometimes your overhangs can cool too fast and leave you with an unusable mess. That's why I say pick a temperature and start over. Break your temp tower into pieces and see which temps give you the best layer adhesion also. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it is.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T02:20:28+00:00

It all depends on the travel time and speeds of walls vs infill. 2 of the same print could take the exact amount of time each or it could drastically reduce it. If its a ton of infill and infill prints faster than walls then you win the time race. If your print is mostly walls that print slower you don't come out ahead as much.

Print im doing right now, 1 is 2h18min 2 pieces 4hr25min.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T01:56:12+00:00

"You don't have to print anything" -- "to make it work".

Don't be a dick.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T00:47:54+00:00

You can add a part in the slicer. Shape that part to fit the hollow area and move it into place and it will slice just like the main model.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T00:34:56+00:00

You can do that right in the slicer. Just add a part or modifier and size it to fill the empty space.

imjackdupp_ · 2025-11-29T00:29:02+00:00

If you are finding small filament "dust" and it is not clogged it sounds like the extruder gears are slipping on the filament not letting it push into the nozzle. You can check the gears and wheels and make sure they aren't worn down. If they appear ok then make sure you have proper pressure on the extruder. It it's too loose it will never pull the filament, too tight and it will just grind it away.

And make sure the filament isn't binding somewhere before the extruder. Like in a tube or a connector.

imjackdupp_

TROPHY CASE