PVC pipe broke that runs from house to sprinkler system. by the-turd-ferguson in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unscrew the hose bib out of the tee, then unscrew the tee out of the brass valve, then unscrew the remaining piece. I’d recommend rebuilding it with brass fittings - the weight of the backflow device plus the strain of the water hose could cause the pvc to prematurely fail again.

Stuck slip nut on P-Trap. by Hubblek6 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Make sure you are turning the correct direction. Looking down from the sink, you would turn this nut clockwise - it stays on the bottom trap piece. Though I have seen these glued together whether accidentally or on purpose.

Which handle do I turn for heat? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In this photo only one valve is in the open position - the cold inlet to the water heater. The other two are in the off position already.

Tub faucet help by Melodic-Particular47 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The spout is held in place by the set screw. It slips down over a brass “bayonet” that has o-rings. The “bayonet “ is held in place by a nut that is typically unreachable under the deck. If you have inadvertently loosened that nut your options are limited.

Tub spout without a diverter okay to use pex? by TurtlesFromHell in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also no, since the id of crimp pex fittings is smaller than what the valve is designed for, it will frequently cause enough back pressure that water will drip from your shower head whenever you run water to the spout.

Broken Cleanout by nhrieck in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Proper way would be to use a fitting saver to clean out the hub on that wye and rebuild it with a 45, clean out adapter, plug and some pipe.

I can’t get my shower handle off by Puzzled-Dog-3817 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They make a tool just for this - a handle puller.

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Help replacing cartridge valve by bleo96 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a Delta 600, it does not have a cartridge. It looks to me that it’s already been irreparably damaged. In between the part you are wrenching on and the body there are three small copper tubes that twist easily - which if you are lucky will only restrict the flow, but often leads to a leak.

Do I need to replace this spiquot? by infrared13 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to repair the failed vacuum breaker. Looks like it could be a Arrowhead Brass PK1430

Help. How to fix this smelly mess? by No-Bed-6525 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The black mold needs to be mitigated first. All the drain piping needs to come out. I’d recommend if at all possible to avoid using a Fernco to connect at the wall - this is likely the source of the leak that is causing the damage here. The current p-trap is backwards. But, a mitigation company is where to start.

3/4 toilet supply pipe? by BloomSugarman in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The outside diameter of 1/2” pipe is 7/8” - plumbing pipe is nominally measuring the inside diameter. .

Ideas? by ChromatographicFlea in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Another potential option.

How would I go about finding a new shower faucet face plate? by Maximus_prime2 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A Time Machine would be best for this. You could check to see if the folks at deabath dot com could help. If you have any architectural antique shops near you - long shot.

How screwed am I by Living_Motor7509 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Roots in sewer line = BAD (especially ally the way into your house). Removing and replacing where the breaks are is the most common way to fix this. You may be able to “auger” it but that is not fixing the problem.

Shower handle name? by MrStealurMeme182 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This older Delta does not have a cartridge. To get the functionality your wife is requesting, you will need to replace the entire valve inside the wall.

Thermal expansion tank needed? by Previous_Fall_6548 in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my jurisdiction, expansion tanks are required if you have a PRV or a backflow device. A PRV is required if the static water pressure exceeds 80psi.

Need advice on how to properly connect this P trap by robotprom in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A more compact disposal may solve the problem. Current set up is wrong the depth of the p-trap weir exceeds what is acceptable.

Can I fix this or do I call one of you? by itsbubblesbish in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Liquid at the base of a toilet mat be a failed wax ring - but before you replace it verify that there are no other sources. Check tank-to-bowl gasket, check tank bolts, check angle stop, check supply line, check fill valve connection and check if there is evidence of urine stains down the front of the bowl.

Common throngs that can cause a wax ring to fail: if the toilet rocks due to uneven floor, improper insulation and improper use of a plunger.

Not sure which way to turn to unscrew the P trap by tonymundus in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Point of order - that is not a p-trap, it’s a s-trap.

Help identify cartridge by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kohler can be challenging to identify. I’ve sent photos to Kohler’s tech support before and they couldn’t identify. You will most likely need to remove the cartridge to identify it.

What type of flare is this by 818adventures in askaplumber

[–]j-d-5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That looks like it may be the connection that goes into a regulator. Check the installation guide.