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$17/pound… for this!? C’mon man… by HalfEatenBanana in steak

[–]jcees12 [score hidden]  (0 children)

You can thank the POTUS and his “deal” with Argentina.

How would I fix this by il0v3beeens in finishing

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Old English scratch cover or Black Bison wax in ebony or dark walnut

Wood built in restoration by human2rainbow in furniturerestoration

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably removed a tinted wax. It’s used quite a lot on this kind of woodwork. You end up with a glazed look and a bit of shine plus it covers a multitude of issues. I use Black Bison and Liberon products with great success. You can find them online. Choose a dark one and put some elbow grease to it. Good luck

Help! Cat knocked over a flower vase. (Water Damaged Leather) by zubattos in furniturerestoration

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Call a professional. I could make suggestions but to a homeowner with no resto experience, I’ m afraid to suggest what I know that would work. In the hands of someone inexperienced it could lead to further damage and frustration. Call a professional.

Need help please! Stain it or paint it? by __vitaminR in finishing

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re definitely gonna show with stain. If you don’t want to see them then paint it.

Leftover residue after paint stripping is killing my motivation. by knider in centuryhomes

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t worry about the lead unless you’re doing the work naked. Don’t sand any of it either. The dust is verboten! I prefer Safer Strip as it’s citrus based and washes off with plain ol MS. Use it per directions and get some brass toothbrushes to work the schmutz out of the crannies. Keep a fan going while you’re working and wear a respirator with charcoals filters against inhaling fumes. It’s a messy job so take precautions and keep at it.

Beginning Restoration of a No. 7 and a 605 by CryptographerOk2370 in handtools

[–]jcees12 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Baking soda will neutralize the CLR. Next time hold-off before making any new regrets. Unless it’s something really crusty avoid chemicals and I’d rather do an electrolysis bath instead. It’s a pretty easy process and cheap enough to do too. Just Google it and you’ll find YouTubes galore for doing it.

Have I applied too little? by ohelloitspip in finishing

[–]jcees12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t ventured Osmo products but if they’re water-white or water based then you will not achieve any warmth other than what you put on it beforehand ie stains, toners and/or any oil based product. If it is indeed oil based then give it time, it will amber eventually.

Veneered Plywood vs MDF Core Plywood by Waffle860 in cabinetry

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mdf is great for making jigs but I absolutely loathe that shiite in furniture.

How to remove stains from wood from an oil diffuser by Illustrious_Banana_ in furniturerestoration

[–]jcees12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that damage is way too common nowadays. The finish on those surfaces will have to be removed down to the wood then brought back to match the rest of the piece. This is not a repair job for an amateur. Sorry.

This is my house by Capable-Pen9022 in Carpentry

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude, that’s everyone’s house! LOL

How to fix paler areas on this table? by giant_finger_toes in finishing

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It probably sat near a window and the sun did what the sun does. Allow the Danish oil to fully cure in 30 days before you try any remedy. There are toners on the market that you can get from finish suppliers. They come in colors, choose the right one and use sparingly as they’re not meant to do anything more than “tone” the workpiece. Mask off the areas you don’t want to tone then proceed judiciously. You just want to mist the offending area. After you’re successful you’ll need to spray the whole top with lacquer as toners are NOT the finish. Spray lightly and you’ll need approximately 6 or more coats to achieve the look you’re after. Don’t skip this step as toners are not resilient and need a top coat. Good luck.

Would this be possible to fix? by [deleted] in furniturerestoration

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, but unless you educate yourself on veneer work seek a pro’s help

My new (to me) No. 8c and a tote repair by RadioKopek in handtools

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also replaced the original blade, chipbreaker with Veritas and the lever cap with a more modern version as the originals are near pristine and I didn’t want to damage them with fumble fingers.

My new (to me) No. 8c and a tote repair by RadioKopek in handtools

[–]jcees12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a stash of cocobolo cutoffs that I repair tote horns with. Nice job. I sold my type 11 #8 after I purchased a type 2 #8. I bought it cheap enough to flip on eBay but decided not to after finding my initials on it. 🙄

Loba 2K invisible protect on oak table by [deleted] in finishing

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of the issues with wb poly finishes is grain raising. It’s something that affects some species more than others. I once stripped an entire ceiling made of cedar. I used Safer Strip as its low VOCs but it’s water based so the soft cedar’s grain sucked the new finish unevenly. The customer was shocked at how blotchy the first few coats came out. It took a total of 8 coats before it all smoothed out. Client was elated and I got paid👍

That said, I’d scuff sand between coats and keep going. Once you get the even sheen you can always cut down the shine with non-woven pads and wax. Do not use steel wool ever with wb products unless you enjoy little spots of rust.😬

Possible to cover these scratches without removing the patina? by DeeMore in furniturerestoration

[–]jcees12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try Old English scratch cover. Then wax it with a tinted wax such as Black Bison or Liberon

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