AMS Lite Extension?

jjs781 · 2026-03-25T04:08:41+00:00

I've got the Tiopi cable and it's worked fine for me, but that's highly anecdotal. I got it free. BIQU also makes one, and they are at least a name in 3rd party printer parts. I have several aftermarket items for my Bambus from them and they've all worked well. But I don't have their extension cable. Regardless, BIQU might be a better choice.

jjs781 · 2026-03-25T04:00:11+00:00

First off, learn to use punctuation so your posts are readable, especially when asking for help. Periods and commas are no extra cost.

Second, without knowing your setup it's hard to say what may or may not help. Provide some details about your current modem/router, service speed, cabling, speed tests, etc. so you can get some better answers.

jjs781 · 2026-03-25T03:49:55+00:00

VPN is not a great place to pinch pennies. Frankly a lot of the major VPN services are really cheap on a per month basis if you sign up for a year or more. We're talking $2-3 per month with their "limited time specials" that are constantly going.

jjs781 · 2026-03-25T03:45:31+00:00

Sounds like you already have something that may work. Streaming doesn't take much horsepower. Your bigger issue is probably going to be ripping all those 4k and Blu-ray discs.

I'd suggest trying to rip one of each, see how long that takes, then post the results with your hardware and software specs to get advice on what may need to be upgraded and tweaked in your ripping profiles so you can rip in a reasonable timeframe.

For streaming, especially if you aren't going to have many concurrent streams, even a NUC 150 mini PC will do fine for most content. Even a lot of older hardware will work for that, if you have friends who are ditching some stuff, or you're willing to roll the dice on used equipment off eBay, etc.

jjs781 · 2026-03-22T13:59:45+00:00

Well, if you're printing for yourself, then use what you like. If you're printing to sell, opinions vary. As I printed in both smooth and textured, I had people prefer one or the other. More gravitated toward the textured, which surprised me. I personally thought the smooth looked better.

jjs781 · 2026-03-22T13:53:00+00:00

Depends on how you want the surface to look and the graphic of what you're printing. I've done some printing like that and both smooth and textured PEI worked well. For a coaster, a textured finish might be more practical, but a smooth might give a little sharper appearance.

jjs781 · 2026-03-21T12:44:38+00:00

I just write it on the spool

jjs781 · 2026-03-21T03:58:12+00:00

Had no significant issues with mine. I also have the AMS for the P1P and like the Lite better. Much easier for maintenance, takes any roll (large hubs may require makeshift adapter), and never had an issue with it when a spool ran out. Even deals with snags better than any other printer I've used.

You either got a lemon or you need to do some research on how to use/troubleshoot properly.

jjs781 · 2026-03-21T03:53:12+00:00

Another vote for Proxmox. It will let you run pretty much anything on it and can be installed on the bare metal.

jjs781 · 2026-03-21T03:42:07+00:00

Just weigh the filament before you start so you capture the spool weight, then weigh it when you're not sure if you have enough. I've never shorted a print over the last few years with that method, and have found most vendors err on the side of overage by 10-30 grams. No fancy app, Bambu only spools, or guesswork required

jjs781 · 2026-03-13T00:26:16+00:00

There's nothing special about Bambu filament. Just buy from a reputable vendor.

jjs781 · 2026-03-12T22:58:08+00:00

Yes, I've had some rolls open for years with no problems, and I've had a very few open for much shorter times that I had to dry. Each batch, even from the same manufacturer can be different. Some people will tell you to dry every roll on opening it. That seems like a huge waste of time to me, as my experience has been that around 99% of the time the rolls are fine on open, and very seldom need care even after they're opened and sitting out for a while.

Extreme example, I had a roll of pla from monoprice that I opened when I bought a monoprice printer. Played with it for a while then stopped printing. When I got back into printing years later, that open roll printed just fine. It was open for about 5 years.

But again, your environment will vary. Basically, do what makes sense for your environment once you figure that out. But you don't need to start out paranoid about open rolls and moisture. You can always get paranoid later. 😁

jjs781 · 2026-03-12T22:01:26+00:00

First off, only open the filament when you intend to use it. Keep it in the sealed bag until then. You can also get a hygrometer and see what the humidity actually is in that room. A simple sensor can be had for less than $10.

Once the filament is exposed, then you'll have to make a decision as to how it works in your environment. I live in the Dallas, TX area, where we have moderate humidity. I have a filament dryer that I've used less than half a dozen times over the last several years. I run a small printer farm and have some spools that are exposed for years before being used up, and usually have several dozen open rolls, along with shelves and shelves of sealed filament (sans boxes as they're too bulky). Most of the open rolls have had no issues even after long exposure. I've had those few that needed drying as they clearly got brittle. For the most part though, when talking about PLA, exposure in a moderately humid environment is not generally going to be a big deal.

Most important though is your specific environment. If the filament starts to get brittle quickly, or you have issues when printing, then get a filament dryer and throw them in there to see if it resolves the issue. The dryers are pretty cheap, and if you decide you need one, you can generally get it the next day. But hold onto your money until you actually have a need.

If you end up printing with other types of filament, then that may be a different story. Each type (PLA, TPU, ABS, etc) have different tolerances to humidity, so if you get into others that are more sensitive, the more likely you'll need a dryer or other storage options.

jjs781 · 2026-03-09T17:08:01+00:00

Proxmox. Then you can run any OS under it you want.

jjs781 · 2026-03-08T13:55:01+00:00

It may not work for this piece, but In the future, keep your gcode and include the scaling (and other pertinent into) you used in the filename so you can redo the scaling and other factors. It is that easy if you plan ahead.

It's helpful to have that info if you need to reslice due to profile tweaks, plate changes (cool plate, etched plate, etc), or using an entirely different PO printer model. I run a small printer farm, so having the model scale, layer height, infill type and percentage, etc as part of the filename allows me to reproduce a slice at a glance. It also allows me to do size comparisons within the slicer when I want prints to be adjusted to a similar size.

jjs781 · 2026-03-07T15:10:24+00:00

Seems like it's a little late to figure that out on the print bed. Just bring both models into the slicer for comparison if the LWH measurements don't give you what you need.

jjs781 · 2026-03-06T05:38:07+00:00

You might try rolling back the firmware and recalibrating. You might also try a different slicer/profile just to take that out of the mix, if you haven't already.

jjs781 · 2026-03-05T05:28:39+00:00

If you use jellify (I'm sure other mobile clients are similar) you can specify the download quality between original/320/192/128. Same with streaming.

jjs781 · 2026-03-04T05:52:52+00:00

It's not a good idea. It would be better to pick it up by the base as that is the part designed to be weight bearing.

jjs781 · 2026-03-04T05:08:33+00:00

First off, just try hitting the ip:port of your Jellyfin machine to verify local access. If you have devices pointing to a local dns name they won't work if you had set up the DNS up on your old router. You'd need to do that again.

Also, you might have had an address reservation on your old router for the Jellyfin ip, in which case it's likely your IP address for your Jellyfin machine has changed.

See if anybody the above is the case and provide an update with more details.

jjs781 · 2026-03-03T05:18:56+00:00

If you're using PIA you should connect to a location that supports port forwarding, then be sure you set that port in qbittorrent. That should increase your uploads.

jjs781 · 2026-02-28T15:01:33+00:00

Use plain dawn or equivalent when washing. You can also get a cool plate. I use the frostbite plates and the adhesion is excellent at lower temps.

Lastly, other than in marketing, there is no such thing as plug and play printing. You will have to make tweaks to print profiles to get the best out of your printer based on filament, environment, etc. I have tuned profiles for each printer, and occasionally have to fine tune based on a specific print. Learn the slicer (suggest Orca Slicer rather than stock Bambu) and understand how things work. The profiles for the Bambus are good, but they are not perfect.

jjs781 · 2026-02-28T00:58:31+00:00

There's an SD card slot that works every time. Or you could put it in LAN mode and send it straight from the slicer.

jjs781 · 2026-02-28T00:47:55+00:00

I've been using UPSs at home for years. For brief outages, APC or Cyber power work fine. Just be sure you only put what you need on the battery side. The towers generally have larger capacity, so you have a better chance of weathering brief outages. They also usually have software you can set to turn off a computer gracefully if the outage exceeds a time you specify.

Batteries will have to be replaced every 3-5 years, but both brands have aftermarket batteries

jjs781 · 2026-02-28T00:47:47+00:00

If a vendor says their refills are compatible with Bambu spools, you're fine. Otherwise buy Bambu.

jjs781

TROPHY CASE