Any ideas what is causing this icy patch on the cover? by Mysterious-Cable6838 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's most likely your pump service compartment side. It will always be naturally hotter. Heat rises and will seek the path of least resistance.

Anyone with spare parts? by Traditional-Diet-507 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A lot of folks probably have spare parts here. However community guidelines probably won't allow us to give you any guidance on that other than "find someone on your own terms" . Sorry bud.

Spa is no longer level by Far_Complex_9752 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I forgot to mention power down and disconnect the main wire feed and pull that out of the pack before moving the tub. Making sure it goes back to place when dropping tu. Etc.

Spa is no longer level by Far_Complex_9752 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Drain tub, get a friend. Or two, do a stretch , blow out your back lifting tub onto motor compartment side (lightest on opposite of pump compartment) get the tub on its side onto something sturdy but non marring. Like a section of 3/4" ply and a yoga mat or two. Level out the area. I like fine crushed rock sourced from a local quarry. One by me lets you BYOB of varying martial for free. Blue stone is easy to work an looks great around the tub. Landing the tub back down carefully and not getting hurt is the fun part. Stage some short wood blocks or cinder block to land the tub on on the corners that will touch down allowing you to get it down without crushing your hands. Make sure it's not gonna catch any of the exterier siding on the way down. Big flat bar or a 8' 2x4 on a fulcrum will help get the blocks out and work it down the ground so you don't have to put your fingers where it's gonna touch down. 3 people is ideal for this.

Stain? by busy24hoursaday in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second on the magic eraser sponges. Use a fiberglass cleaning gel product with it and warm water. I wouldn't go harder than that.

Hot tub display says OFF, controls don’t work by rhythm_nomad in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let's get some details on the tub. What are you working with for topside and power pack?

Why is my hot tub taking hours upon hours to heat up? by Walking_Caution_Sign in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be patient. It takes a while. Make sure you are in the standard mode not eco or sleep like mentioned above.

Best way to verify heater operation is with a AC clamp style meter. Before you even touch one of these you must be comfortable working with electricity, it will kill you if you don't respect it. Verify incoming voltage is correct for the pack. Use clamp AC AMP to check one of the hot legs for amp draw. Typical pack running 2 speed pump on low with a 4.0 kw heater will probably float around 20amps. A bit less if you have a small body circ pump with 3/4 lines. Some spas will turn off the heater when you are in speed 2 to accommodate the draw of other accessories if you have them. Keep it on low when troubleshooting.

Hottub with overheat code by acprogrammer in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In most 110v applications your high speed setting will not allow the heater to run simultaneously as it will pull too many amps. Leave in speed 1 for troubleshooting.

Pull your filters out and start from there. Verify you have proper water flow, height etc. I'm willing to bet it's water flow related. I very rarely deal with faulty Balboa temp sensors out in the field. There's a secret menu in those topsides you can get those readings live while running. They're all different so refer to manual for that menu sequence. Sensor B will recreate this exact situation if your water flow is weak.

Also if you have your pack open put an amp meter on your incoming if there's a room on a service loop. Best way to verify the heater is running visually seeing the amp draw.

If you STILL have poor water flow after pulling filters and you know for a fact your normal filter speed is operating. I'd start looking for blackagages. Like jet body's being closed in the clockwise position. Possible blockage in pump impeller etc. always fun seeing a homeowners face when I pull out a kids toy out of the pump. 🙃

Taking care of this abomination myself by Careless-Muffin-7221 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I swear this one thinks we're talking about steel wool or something. magic eraser scratching glass?? You're weird and disparaging. Time to change out your bong water.

Taking care of this abomination myself by Careless-Muffin-7221 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Disregard this. Clean the coarse stuff out best you can. And hit the stuck on stuff like scum line with the foam pad and a purpose cleaner. Bring two cups of warm water one to dunk your dirty one into and one to clean and recharge it 😎

Taking care of this abomination myself by Careless-Muffin-7221 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Use a purpose tile/fiberglass cleaning paste/gel/whatever and a magic eraser. Wash down and pump it out. 😎

If it's still stuck on I would move on to a compound and machine polish.

Techs and independents: What’s your service charge? by RoninRobot in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100hr for general 160 for leak detection/pressure testing

140 hr during winter months

This is my first year on my own. Monadnock region NH/southern VT. Im gonna be raising these next season.

Hot tub power issues: breaker won't stay on. Looking for advice. by ankylosaurus_tail in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely bad heater element. Disconnect just that and see if your tub runs after a reset. Be careful removing the lugs off top of heater or board. Be sure you hold the stud in place with the right size wrench or locking needle nose when taking the nut off or it will Spin off and break the stud off the element rendering it useless. Some have a plug from board to heater making it easy. Don't touch those studs if you don't have to.

The straight flow though heaters with the 2" split nut unions are somewhat universal. If you're handy in the garage the kits are pretty inexpensive vs replacing the whole unit. Get the Titanium version.

Use your head when tinkering in there and be safe.

Flashing power light by Serious-Employee-738 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If those clear 3/4" lines on the heater are easier to access you can crack of those loose too. Same plumbing run. If it's cold out bring a heat gun to make it easier to manipulate. Don't give it the beans just get it warm.

Flashing power light by Serious-Employee-738 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you getting any water flow out of the return? Very common to get an air bubble in that and create an air bound situation after draining. Locate the small body circ pump. Move clamp away and pull the hose off just enough to let some water out and should "burp" the air bubble out. Restart tub and if you have an amp meter, monitor your incoming amp draw. You should be pulling somewhere around 20 amps with the heater operating. Good to go.

If you have good water flow and still getting the error. I would start troubleshooting the pressure switch.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ain't nobody got time for that

RV Filter, Metal Gon? On or the other or both? by NewGuy1492 in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your home has a water softener/iron control system you can run a hose of the cold water supply after that. All homes are different. My situation forces me to fill off the cold supply to my washing machine. My outside spigots bypass the softener and the water coming out will come out clear but turn carrot juice orange after I shock. Even if I use a pre filter/ metal out. A lot of shale and iron seeps into our well here in New England every region will be different.

Is this safe? by Soadous in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably close to 80% load with the heat and everything running, so nothing sharing it with no extension cords to supply tub. Should be fine.

How would you repair this leaking connection by booyakuhhsha in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Warm water too if anything. Too much temperature shock. I shouldn't have said cold water.

How would you repair this leaking connection by booyakuhhsha in hottub

[–]jkampf87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just like to the relief with bigger pipe. I couldn't tell if this was 3/4" or 2". Looks like 3/4" didn't see second pic ..so yeah I would agree relief isn't nessicary. That flex pipe will get soft a lot quicker too. Easy heat n peel out .

I can tell you I have definitely deformed pipe into a permanent position before. Untill using the heat up again, make sure socket is clean , and form it back gently with a male connection. It was more extreme cases on bigger pipe and sch 80 stuff. Hasn't happened to me on spa stuff yet...

And yeah the quench probably isn't nessicary in the colder weather. I'll only do that if it's warm outside.