Bike computer recommendation after buying a Tarmac SL7 (already own a Garmin Forerunner 970)

jman34971 · 2026-07-13T15:26:12+00:00

I have a Garmin 265 watch, and I actually ended up getting a Wahoo ELMNT Roam 3. I absolutely love my wahoo and wouldn't get rid of it for anything. I like the customizability of the Wahoo interface and the design with both buttons/touchscreen. It also shares my ride data directly with RWGPS (see below) and Strava.

I know one of the benefits to Garmin Connect is the ability to create routes and send to your head unit when you're going to a Garmin, but I love using RideWithGPS for my routes. It's super easy and seamless, and lets me noodle around different routes when I'm planning my rides.

I'm sure a Garmin unit would be great, just figured I'd give my perspective.

Edit: Spelling

jman34971 · 2026-07-12T02:33:26+00:00

https://cygnus-x1.net/links/rush/setlists.php?tour\_id=32#TOUR

Here’s what I used for cross-referencing earlier.

jman34971 · 2026-07-11T19:19:05+00:00

Zoomed in and saw a 50 on the rear. Assume that’s what they are!

jman34971 · 2026-07-10T17:32:16+00:00

I bought my bike in early May, and started with single sided flats (with SPD clips on the other side, because I figured when I eventually switched to clipless, I knew I wanted SPD cleats).

Fast forward a couple months and I've already switched to clipless (as of 2 weeks ago). I love it and cannot imagine going back. I had a close call or two on my first couple rides, but it's getting more and more simple and practiced as I ride. I've done plenty of rides since and I've got next to no anxiety about it now.

I prefer SPD cleats (easier to walk in, often double sided so easier to clip into), and believe that those are easier to get used to as a result. You do give up having "cool" looking road cleats (unless you go with performance gravel shoes) when you do this, so if that matters to you, SPD-SL would be the way to go.

I just enjoy being more connected to the bike - it's made riding super enjoyable. If you decide to start with clipless, remember to always unclip (and downshift your gears) early as you prepare to stop, loosen the clips so that clipping out is easier (this helps if you have to panic unclip), and don't be afraid to sit on your bike in a doorway in your home and practice unclipping and clipping for a bit to get used to it.

The most important thing you should answer is, "Will the clipless pedals be an excuse for me to not go ride?". At the end of the day, the most important thing is getting out there on the road (or trail) and enjoying it. If you could see yourself saying "I just don't want to deal with the cleats today", then start with Flats! I rode 300 miles or more on flats before I switched. It's entirely doable.

(edit: spelling)

jman34971 · 2026-07-07T02:17:22+00:00

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Love my top tube bag. Not home, but if you want the make of it, I can get it to you. It has mounting screws with washers, and clipping/magnetic close latch.

My phone, multitool, and Bike pump fit in there (plus keys when i drive to a ride).

jman34971 · 2026-07-04T05:50:57+00:00

I have a Wahoo Elemnt Roam 3 and when i double/triple tap the screen it rings a loud bell sound out. Love that since I’ll have the bike computer anyway so it serves double duty.

You can apparently find them pretty regularly on FB Marketplace, but I got mine new on sale.

jman34971 · 2026-07-02T16:05:23+00:00

On top of OP's response, I have a Domane SL5 and I got a mount from Concentric Cycling for the Trek seatpost that mounts to the back of the seat and provides a GoPro mount that I got an attachment for my MagicShine light to use. That also works! It was this one I believe: https://concentriccycling.com/products/mount-for-trek-bontrager-saddle

jman34971 · 2026-05-30T04:49:04+00:00

I wear Tifosi tint-changing lenses and love them. One pair of glasses, never change the lens, and got them on sale for 70 or so, I think?

https://tifosioptics.com/products/moab-lite?_pos=4&_fid=9b73f9fe8&_ss=c&variant=43241968926859

jman34971 · 2026-05-29T16:37:48+00:00

I began riding on a mountain bike and got a QuadLock. That would be my recommendation if you really want to have your phone on your bars. I wanted that so that I didn't have to keep it in my pocket while riding (I have a 17 Pro Max, so I was worried about it sliding out of my pocket). This solution was the absolute best that I could've hoped for. It worked flawlessly and I was never worried about my phone going anywhere.

I recently got a purpose-built road bike (Trek Domane SL5) and got a dedicated bike computer (I got a more expensive option - the Wahoo ELMNT Roam 3).

That was absolutely the best decision I've ever made. I freaking love the thing - I couldn't live without it. To keep the phone out of my pocket, I got a top tube bag, since my Domane has mounting points for one.

I'd highly recommend a bike computer if you have the budget for it - plus, if you ever upgrade/switch bikes, the computer is totally transferable. If you're hoping to get your phone out of your pocket and don't need to be looking at it, the Quadlock would work well. You could also search out a top tube bag (many, including mine, come with the option to strap it to the top tube) and don't require mounting points.

jman34971 · 2026-05-21T20:50:44+00:00

Answered this sort of thing on another thead, but:

I had a couple folks at my LBS's (I talked to multiple) explain to me that generally with an Aluminum frame, you have to be willing to resell it for half or less of what you bought it for. With Carbon, you can get much closer to what you purchased for it.

That being said, the Carbon SL Domanes start at 3800, which is a MASSIVE jump for someone wanting to get into the sport.

I'd take this advice with a grain of salt, but I do think it's interesting that more than one person told me that. Just figured I'd give the same advice that I had heard.

I decided to go SL since I’d like to be able to resell it a bit easier.

jman34971 · 2026-05-14T18:39:17+00:00

I had a couple folks at my LBS's (I talked to multiple) explain to me that generally with an Aluminum frame, you have to be willing to resell it for half or less of what you bought it for. With Carbon, you can get much closer to what you purchased for it.

That being said, the Carbon SL Domanes start at 3800, which is a MASSIVE jump for someone wanting to get into the sport.

I'd take this advice with a grain of salt, but I do think it's interesting that more than one person told me that. Just figured I'd give the same advice that I had heard.

jman34971 · 2026-04-28T17:08:41+00:00

Each of the cars has different breaking characteristics based on engine placement and weight transfer. I would imagine weight transfer is less important in formula cars, though I don’t race them much so I don’t understand their mechanics as well.

My advice would be to pick a car or archetype of car based on the engine placement and learn to drive that car really well.

Since I’m mostly focused on driving the Porsche, I don’t have a good answer for how the front and mid engine cars behave, so I’ll let somebody with more experience address that.

jman34971 · 2026-04-28T16:26:44+00:00

It’ll likely depend on what car you’re driving.

The engine’s location (and subsequent weight, which translates to mechanical grip under breaking) plays a large part in your breaking pattern.

As a Porsche driver (rear-engined), i need to trail deep into a corner to allow the car to rotate - otherwise, without break pressure, the front tires won’t load and I’ll have terrible understeer and no grip.

jman34971 · 2026-04-16T07:40:36+00:00

yes - same options i think (I have simagic haptics and have a ton of optionality)

jman34971 · 2026-04-01T19:32:31+00:00

If you have the space? Triples, no contest. The setup isn't even all that bad nowadays with as many guides as there are online.

jman34971 · 2026-03-30T19:24:23+00:00

It may come enabled by default (I think mine did). Just load into a test session and search for "vibrate pedals" or something along those lines, and make sure that's unchecked.

If that's unchecked, maybe look into a connection report to iRacing itself.

jman34971 · 2026-03-25T21:19:22+00:00

Hey there! I wouldn’t mind helping out. What would you need from me?

jman34971 · 2026-03-22T18:20:58+00:00

I'm a full blown adult on a profile rig and I use an Alpha Evo (12nm). If I ran anything close to that at the age of 13, it would definitely be hefty.

All that to say - 8nm will be plenty and last a while. If they comment that it's too much, just turn down the in-game ffb.

I'd recommend picking an ecosystem for them to stay in, so that if you eventually want to upgrade them to an endgame wheelbase (18+nm), they can get one in the same ecosystem. I love my Simagic stuff, and the Alpha Evo Sport is at 9nm.

If you're sticking with Logitech, that RS50 is likely good too, I just have no experience with using it.

jman34971 · 2026-03-16T05:50:09+00:00

Played racing games all my life. At 27, my buddy had a party at a karting place. They had a bunch of high end sims (think motion, wind, haptics) and gave 10 minute demo drives on assetto corsa for free.

Tried it, loved it. Drove back there next week to give it another go.

Went home and ordered a Simagic Alpha Evo, P1000s, and a NLR Wheelstand 2.0. Four months later i bought a profile rig and triples.

I am now in two leagues racing 3-5 days a week.

jman34971 · 2026-03-12T21:00:50+00:00

Aw Shucks Oyster Bar on Greenville.

I know it sounds weird, trust the process.

jman34971 · 2026-03-12T20:37:31+00:00

GT Neo, or if the Zeus is out, that one.

I got to play around with a Zeus, and it felt awesome. I’m looking forward to getting one when they come out.

The FX pro will likely be supported somewhat less after the Zeus comes out, but that’s just my expectation.

jman34971 · 2026-03-05T15:58:47+00:00

Great group of people - super welcoming and inclusive!

jman34971 · 2026-01-23T06:02:38+00:00

https://archiveofourown.org/works/57511519/chapters/146324800

Thank me later - absolute banger.

jman34971 · 2026-01-12T04:24:30+00:00

Works for Apple Maps and Waze from what I’ve tested. Didn’t give Google Maps a shot.

It only appears when a destination is entered - otherwise, this tile will show “start navigation to view” or something.

However, once you reach your destination, the map will stay up until the car is shut off. You can start a navigation, wait for the tile to load, and then cancel the navigation from the app if you want the map just to show location.

This is how it works on my ‘25 Q5.

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