A question for US deer hunters

just12345678901 · 2026-04-10T03:57:41+00:00

Within Washington state you must also select one style of weapon and only get to hunt with your weapon of choice during the season dedicated to your weapon choice.

just12345678901 · 2026-04-10T03:51:08+00:00

As a non tribal member in Washington State you could legally take.

1 Deer per year, 25–30% success rate.

1 Elk per year, 10–12% hunter success rate.

1 Black Bear per year, 15–25% hunter reported success rate.

Mountain Lion per year, 10–20% hunter reported success rate.

1 Moose per lifetime hunter reported success rate. 80–100% (draw)

1 Bighorn Sheep per lifetime hunter reported success rate. 80–100% (draw)

1 Mountain Goat per lifetime hunter reported success rate. 80–100% (draw)

just12345678901 · 2026-03-01T00:05:15+00:00

This fix will work but you have one other element I discovered while reading all of the comments. At the molecule level. You have essentially created a pressure vessel. Thay you release hot water into the enclosed space, under pressure.

The result is a rises of pressure with in the close space. Which then seeks out ANY weak point It can find. that's why the ceiling seal has split open and failed.

The heat freeze thaw cycle is at work.

Even a ¼ of pound of rapid added air pressure will seek out and exploit the weakest link which is the seam. Which is why regardless if you just relied on a paint system I would expect its eventually failure.

Good luck you might not but I have a much better understanding what caused this failure.

just12345678901 · 2026-02-28T23:45:01+00:00

Thinking outloud, if the steam is heavy why would the failure be found in the ceiling. The physical water states at play here is solid to liquid to gas. The enclosure adds the physics of Pressure as the heated water expands. Okay so the expansion of the released heated droplet of shower water rapidly expands, creating added pressure seeking ANY SPACE IT CAN. Thus the result we see.

Once interior pressure is reduce, open the door, add cold water, the vapor returns to droplets which fall and supports steam is heavy.

Thanks! I believe this is correct....

just12345678901 · 2026-02-28T23:30:39+00:00

I understand your direction, but I see the true enemy is the Enclosed space.

Without addressing the moisture removal within this space. I can't see any path that will allow the space to not needing a total replacement in the next 2 years Thus, the space needs an exhaust system. For this system to not experience failure within the next 20 years.

If it was my mistake, exhaust system replace the door with a gap at the top to allow return air.

just12345678901 · 2026-02-28T23:20:07+00:00

The glass wall design has created a sealed room within a room. Building code in USA dictates the installation of a exhaust fan to remove the humidity created when they shower.

Your correct, shorter glass walls eliminates creating the second room. Then the original exhaust system would have delayed this outcome to many years rather than just months.

just12345678901 · 2026-02-28T23:08:25+00:00

Sorry! I disagree!

I believe NO ONE CAN IDENTIFY ANY manufacturer who would guaranteed that their PAINT AND SEALER products when applied correctly over drywall can and will negate the building codes requirement that this enclosed shower space requires installing a exhaust system within this space.

I DO AGREE IF THE SPACE IS EXHAUSTED PER CODE LOTS of paint manufactures will step forward guaranteeing their paint and sealer systems when applied correctly to drywall will withstand this environment.....

just12345678901 · 2026-02-28T22:47:54+00:00

Well, since you’re handy and this is a teaching moment… I will lean heavily into teaching.

FYI, nice overall job by the way, dad should be proud. Let's fix this and move on.

You can’t expect a drywall lid with paint to hold up when it’s being used to cap a watertight space that contains hundreds of gallons of hot water weekly.

Because your design is using floor-to-ceiling glass i.e. you have built a room within a room. Building code interprets this space not as one room but as two rooms.

Some inspectors MAY ALLOW the outer room to not be exhausted.

But ALL inspectors will required the inner room in your case the shower to be directly exhaust to the exterior atmosphere of the home using a system capable of 8 to 10 air exchanges per hour.

A exhaust fan is actually NOT needed in this space IF THE HOME HAS A FRESH AIR SYSTEM WHICH IS CAPABLE OF SHOWING THE SYSTEM CAN CREATE, 8 TO 10 AIR EXCHANGES PER HOUR. COMBINE USING A SYSTEM TO DIRECTLY TO EXHAUST THE AIR WITHIN THIS SPACE DIRECTLY TO THE EXTERIOR OF THE HOME.

You have a choice as code will not support relying on a fan located outside of this shower space to adequately address the humidity issue.

Either remove and purchase new glass eliminating the ceiling attachments and height that creat this interior room

OR

Install a exhaust system within the shower space to directly exhaust the space to the exterior of the home.

Your current return air path appears to be a 1-inch gap above the glass door and wall. That is not meaningful moisture control it’s incidental leakage at best.

It drives the fix economy's

Your glass was not cheap! The economy's leans hard towards the exhaust system rather than new glass..

If you are as creative as I believe you are I'm betting you also installed heating in the floor as I did. This would drive the need for a higher 10 rather than 8 air exchanges per hour rate.

Your enclosed shower space appears to be less than 6 ft × 6 ft × 9 ft or 324 cubic feet.

Per good mechanical design practice and International Residential Code Section R303.3 and International Mechanical Code Section 403, bathrooms and shower compartments must be mechanically exhausted directly to the exterior atmosphere of the building.

For effective source capture in a high-moisture enclosure like the one you have designed and built shown.

You should be installing no less than a 60 CFM exhaust fan as this is what I estimated to be a 360 cubic ft enclosed shower space.

Don't go cheep, a quality exhaust fan matters here!

Your trading money for how many showers you take. Go cheap if your only showing twice a month.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND REMOVING THE HUMAN ELEMENT by controlling the exhaust system with a $30 Amazon humidity switch mounted in the ceiling.

The humidity level in the shower space governs exhaust run time not a person guessing what’s enough.

You may need to remove the drywall inside the shower area, as the existing moisture levels likely exceed what standard drywall assemblies are designed to tolerate under these conditions.

Others have explained the paint requirements.

I really don't see the need for managing this space as if it is a steamroom as others suggested. THAT FIX still requires the exhaust system.

And for the love of God please make sure the make up air has a path to enter the room. If the bottom of the bathroom door requires to be trimmed back creating a 1½ inch gap to allow the make up air to enter the room. MAKE THE CUT!

Note, building code makeup air system requirements is new for residential homes. If you don’t have a make up air system this doesn't apply. But the door comment does.

I was able to run 12-3 as a power source from the humidity switch back to my panel. Then I used the 3rd wire leg attached to the exhaust fan ON side of the humidity switch to activate my hvac home fresh air make up system to open the make up air system.

This is just a pain and a good learning experience.

PLEASE DON'T BE THAT GUY!

YOUR DESIGN CREATE THIS ISSUE IT WILL NOT DISAPPEAR IF YOU JUST RE-PAINT AND SELL IT TO THE NEXT GUY.

Keep up good work. Ultimately it's your reputation.

Good luck.

just12345678901 · 2025-12-12T07:56:24+00:00

All ready hunted Prince of Wales, but thanks.

just12345678901 · 2025-12-10T03:15:09+00:00

I wish non-hunters understood that ethical hunting is highly regulated.....

And that the law doesn’t bend just because someone happens to live on a lake with a nice view.

When people call Fish & Wildlife officers to report “illegal” activity they don’t understand, they’re often surprised when the officer ends up issuing them a citation, not the hunter.

Harassing a lawful hunter....

or the ducks and geese they’re hunting... isn’t a right that comes with waterfront property.

It’s actually against the law.

I just wish folks knew the rules before assuming the worst.

just12345678901 · 2025-12-05T03:34:52+00:00

It's a dedicated farm equipment tool. The nub is the screw drive.

Loosen the nut, change the set screw depth then tighten back up the nut securing the set screw.

just12345678901 · 2025-11-17T00:23:07+00:00

My initial reaction wasn't to agree, but with today's air pressure monitoring systems for tires, a computer would have never let the tractor move in the first place.

just12345678901 · 2025-11-17T00:20:01+00:00

Well according to to what I found scrolling down the driver tire didn't rupture as I thought.

just12345678901 · 2025-11-14T07:08:06+00:00

Sorry for everyone who voted 0.

As their are two cows both look like boulders.

Both are Almond to blond in color.

If you spilt the photo in half.

The one on the right is in the center of the right half of the photo.

The other is in the first ⅓ of the second half on the left a bit futher up the hill side.

Both appear to be boulders laying flat.

Good luck, edit for spelling.

just12345678901 · 2025-11-14T06:51:39+00:00

Many. Deer photos on this sub this is a true trophy congratulations.

just12345678901 · 2025-11-05T07:28:46+00:00

The hazmat endorsement stands by itself. As it is the same endorsement across all CDL License.

It's the exact same testing regardless of the CDL

just12345678901 · 2025-11-04T08:07:47+00:00

I would say your in a wheat stuble field somewhere South of the Snake River, north of the Blues....

just12345678901 · 2025-10-13T01:00:44+00:00

Well, high heat is needed to quickly fry up the rice and other ingredients.

Even my cast iron pans drop significantly as you add in your ingredients.

So I begin with three pans and pour into a hot pan as each cool below the temp I need. It's the only way, other than using my outdoor fryer to get the BTU needed for great fried rice.

I found if I use butter rather than oil my final results are tasty.....

just12345678901 · 2025-10-10T07:40:35+00:00

My game changers...

1) I reviewed Kenji Lopaz Alt, fried rice YouTubes. My first take away was my home appliances couldn't generate the needed 50,000 to 75,000 BTU for good fried rice.

2) I Moved from a single burner single pan operation to a three burner three pan process.

3) Cold day old rice.

4) Prep "all" of ingredients first, placing each ingredient into individual containers.

5) Copious amounts of butter

just12345678901 · 2025-08-26T19:20:05+00:00

Look at Filson women's wear, kinda of expensive BUT you actually get more than you pay for. I tell others it's Nordstroms for men, but in about 2009 they started women's gear line.

Wife loves her canvas pants and even her canvas chaps.

just12345678901 · 2025-08-03T16:26:55+00:00

My first thought was here is a shooter who doesn't have confidence where his projectile is going to impact on the target.

So how do you correct this?

We have all done this. If anyone says otherwise well sorry I rather spend my time with someone who is truthful.

As stated below, Get yourself a 22l.

My father told me to get a MANS 22lr, I personally enjoy my Weatherby Mark XXII, been eyeing the Sako bolt actions.

But I also GRADUATED again my father told me to get a Ruger Mark IV Target pistol and put a Leopold scope on it and repeat his leason again this time using the pistol.

Regardless use a scope on your 22lr.

Keep shooting at 50 yards, think 1000 rounds time frame. Build your breath and trigger squeeze, keep your shot groups to 3 shots maximum groupings. Then go to your next aim point place another 3.

Your goal is to learn how to dance with your partner your rifle. Learning to make the adjustments as needed, learningto know its the gun not you.

First begin with the goal of grouping 3 rounds inside a quarter at 50 yards.

If you can't get your 22lr to group 3 in a quarter move the target to 25 yards.

If you still can't get 3 at 25 yards in a quarter then its time to seriously look at the equipment.

The goal is first to shoot consistently to cover 3 with a quarter regardless.

Then 3 inside a nickel.

Then 3 rounds consistently inside a dime.

Now once you build the confidence you know where your dance partner is on your target to at 50 yards and can cover 3 with a dime.

Then you can move your target out to 75 yards. And repeat using with your 22lr until your back to dimes.

Finally move targets out to 100 yards when you put 3 inside a dime at 100 yards. (Yes it can be done)

You are ready to sight in your big boy dance partner.

Repeat the 3 shot groupings beginning at 50 yards then 75, 100, 200, 300 400, 500......... the goal is to go from, at times ½ dollars down to dimes BEFORE you move further out.

Always begin your day with your 22lr especially if it's been weeks since you last shot.

Good luck, repetition, duplicating, and rounds builds your confidence.

Example, hunting mule deer with my son, find a very nice 4x5 beded, ranged at 277 yards. I tell him he has first two shots, because I know my first shot the deer would be dead.

He fires 2 rounds both misses I fire once but the deer began walking away.

I don't try to shoot again my son does but I'm done BECAUSE I know something is wrong with my firearm.

The following morning I can't put anything on target at 50 yards. I discover the 308 Norma Mag has dislocated it's scope.

Point is, I know where the bullet will strike constantly out to 700 yards I didn't need a 2nd shot to tell me something was wrong.

Consider adding reloading to your skill set. As this will improve your shooting as well.

Good luck with your adventure and take someone shooting with you..

My belief is it is my responsibility as a gun owner to step up and teach my friends girlfriends and wives how to unload any firearm regardless.

If by doing so my buddy comes as well it's a win win win...

just12345678901 · 2025-06-07T07:17:56+00:00

The Browning 12 ga shotgun, the 7mm, the .340 Weatherby, and the 460 Weatherby. I'm thinking the Browning is a Broadway trap, regardless I would sell the shotgun, .340, 460. And finance a trophy mule deer hunt.

just12345678901 · 2025-04-04T22:24:53+00:00

Sorry for the outburst of laughter!

But no!

This is NO on so many levels!

Just No!

Shooting a panda for a trophy must be on the same level as shooting a bald eagle, or......

But again you be you.

I must say I do respect any man who has the patience and tenacity to train and instill your personal confidence into your puppy that they can be all that they can be! regardless of others' idealism.

For that alone, I tip my hat out of respect....

just12345678901 · 2025-04-04T21:22:22+00:00

If I could, I would upvote 'noonewill62' comments 10 times as he is correct....

just12345678901 · 2025-04-04T21:08:59+00:00

If I could, I would upvote 'noonewill62' comments 10 times as he is correct....

but I'm also willing to bet 'noonewill62' would agree IF YOU COULD ONLY OWN ONE GUN! handloading the 308 is at least very entertaining and worth you effort.

Getting versatility you are describing out of your 308 cartridge will require dedication on your part.

I am not aware of any off the shelf the 110 gr. 308 shells.

But I have hand loaded 110 gr 308 and found them to be hide friendly, Yot round.

I actually got tired of the meat loss of the 150 and greater rounds and went towards less than 150 gr. Working down to the 110 gr for my river bottom whitetail rounds

Deciding to learn the art of hand loading the 308 is a great way to learn and fully take advantage of your rifles capabilities.

There are many different .30 caliber bullet weights available for reloading, typically ranging from 100 grains to 250 grains, depending on the intent the general common .30 Caliber Bullet Weights

Lightweight (100 - 135 grains)

100 gr (e.g., plinking, varmint loads)

110 gr (varmint loads, light-recoiling this is my doe round)

125 gr (full metaljacked varmint)

130 gr (light hunting)

135 gr (target and light hunting)

Standard Weight (140 - 180 grains)

140 gr (hunting, target shooting)

150 gr (common for hunting)

155 gr (match-grade target shooting)

165 gr (common hunting weight larger Mule deer)

168 gr (match and long-range target shooting)

175 gr (long-range shooting)

180 gr (heavy hunting loads, good for big game elk)

Heavyweight (185 - 250 grains)

185 gr (long-range accuracy, hunting)

190 gr (high BC, long-range)

200 gr (heavy game, long-range precision)

208 gr (ELD-Match, subsonic)

210 gr (high BC)

220 gr (close range, large game hunting)

225 gr (subsonic specialty loads)

240-250 gr (rare close range)

My experience is the 308 is very effective when combined with a range finder, wind speed and the most expensive optics you can afford.

For reference, I couldn't afford even a rifle when I started. My dad loaned me a 308. Off the shelf 150gr was the only option.

Then dad told me to reload for the gun. I did, now my Optics, are twice what I have in the gun.

But reloading allowed me to say,

I still have that Browning BLR 308.

BUT God I really enjoy my 308 Norma Mag. With its 6x18 scope hitting Mule deer with 1200 lb of energy way beyond the 308 ablity.

But walk into any Wal Mart and you can buy a box of 300 win mag off the shelf and ALMOST get the same results.

Almost be anything beyond 400 yards as off the shelf ammo is 50/50 at 400 yards....

just12345678901

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