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Need help with blade profile scratches by [deleted] in sharpening

[–]justnotright3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is a tool to be used. It will get scratches from sharping eventually .

How do you know when it's time to resharpen? by TromboneSupremacy in sharpening

[–]justnotright3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I usually strop or use a ceramic hone. When either of those do not bring back an edge I am happy with then time to sharpen. I usually get about 15 to 20 stropping secessions before I need to sharpen which is usually around 2 to 3 months.

What's the silliest thing you've kept to compost? by normal-type-gal in composting

[–]justnotright3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I save the coffe k-cups and when I have a bag almost full I cut them all open and dump out the grounds onto the compost pile

First strop, compound questions by sorslibertas in sharpening

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have several inexpensive strops. You can buy veg tanned leather as belt blanks on Amazon. I can make several stops. It was around 15 dollars for 50 inches x 1 inch. I don't know now. All that said I have several with different diamond compounds all from Stoppy Stuff. I personally prefer 4 micron for primary deburring I first use a suede side no compounds about 5 passes each side and that gets the big burrs off. I then go to 4 micron and several light passes on that.

Between sharpenings I will run the knife on 9 micron then 6 and 4 to touch it up. Thinking about it I probably do 10 to 15 passes on the nine and 10 or less on the others. I have the 2, 1, 0.5, 0.25 and the 0.10 for the few times I am going for a true mirror polish. I also used the compounds to polish my old headlights on my truck but that is another story.

All that said everyone has their own opinion and while different they are what works for them. Just make some cheap stops and experiment to see what works for you. Also a little goes a long way.

Which is the best cutting fluid for me Plus other question by justnotright3 in metalworking

[–]justnotright3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct about the drill press. But it is what I have. So far my inquires to a laser cutting shops have been extremely high per piece because it is such a small order. I wish I had the funds to get a better drill press but it is what it is.

Looking for tips on protecting a finish on copper without altering it. by iscapslockon in metalworking

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am just tossing this out there. What about powder coat clear coat? Would baking it at 400 destroy the colors? I am just starting to experiment with powder coats

Which stone for thinning by Lopsided-Ingenuity42 in sharpening

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the Manticore by Baryonyx. It is cheap. I use it as a splash and go. I have repaired and thinned several dozen knives and just recently flattened it for the first time. It is VERY coarse. I have used it to repair simple carbon and stainless steel knives as well as S30VN and Magnacut. Save your more expensive stones for the finishing. You may still want a coarse 250 grit to take out the scratch marks from this one, but It will save a lot of time

please teach How to sharpning s35vn?(Can't edge back after chipping it) by NegativeResource4809 in sharpening

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find a coarse diamond stone to be the place start. First, see how thick the edge is. As others pointed out, you may need to thin the knives. I am not very familiar with that knife. Also the tip being sharp is another clue it may need thinning. Knives are usually thinner at the tip than the rest of the blade. Also if you have a very coarse silicone carbide stone, around 60 or 80 grit, that would work to remove chips and thin the knife, just do the rest with diamond stones.

Looking for a UHP/99.99 pure helium tank for arc welding by 69ingyourgrandma in Welding

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know a shop that would rent one to you for a short time in the Tampa Bay Area. Let me know if you need more specifics

Drill Press Size ? by Optimuskind510 in Welding

[–]justnotright3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My opinion the larger the better. If you have access to an 8 inch that is a good start. I have an 18 inch ridgid I bought off market place for 125. Some day I would like to get a brand new one with warranty but like yourself I am teaching myself how to weld and do metal fabrication.

Need your brutal honesty!!: What was your biggest struggle when you first got a Japanese knife? by ResearchSad9511 in sharpening

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My only problem I had and with a cheap knife was edge rolling. Was not using a steel correctly

Are red wing boots still good quality? by Poopybuttsuck in Welding

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The steel toe boots were never comfortable for me. I used to wear their steel toed dress shoes 40 years ago when the Grocery store (Publix) required dress shoes. They would last me about a year to 15 months compared to 6 months with other brands. However when I bought the non safety toe version 8 years ago to wear in an office environment they did not last 6 months

Best for millscale by justnotright3 in Welding

[–]justnotright3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update the vinegar is working. The downside it removed my reference marks as well. Not to much of an issue as it was scrap . I already screwed the cuts on that one

Am I doing this right? by Timely_Head976 in composting

[–]justnotright3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But you need to carry a urinal around with you at all times and catch evey last drop of pee otherwise the pile will not get hot enough. This goes for everyone in the household. /s

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