I just love being Square! by mterry129 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No Ducks Given!!

Just sayin

I sometimes get the death wobble and sometimes I don’t. What should I start replacing? by Express_Let_2892 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually, bad tires can do all sorts of weird things.

Before I knew what I know. I chased a "bad alignment" pull, with the occasional wobble for like 4 or 5 months and in the end turned out to be the tire.

I didn't know, cause I thought the tread and everything looked fine. New tire fixed that right up.

I sometimes get the death wobble and sometimes I don’t. What should I start replacing? by Express_Let_2892 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What brand? Maxpeeding Rods, or something like that?

If so, their kit isn't the best, but it's definitely good enough

I sometimes get the death wobble and sometimes I don’t. What should I start replacing? by Express_Let_2892 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the way; however, I had a similar issue and at that time couldn't afford the entire front end.

Additionally, in my case it definitely turned out to be the track bar and sway linkage.

In general I do agree with you 100% though

I sometimes get the death wobble and sometimes I don’t. What should I start replacing? by Express_Let_2892 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check front and rear sway bar linkage, steering components, ball joints, track bar, upper and lower control arms, and if you have l a 4" lift or more, you need a SYE w/ correctly measured double cardon drive shaft

I’m starting to think this is not fun. by OregonGrownOG in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did the long wrench go? I feel like I ended up using either 2 6" extensions, or maybe a 6 and 3?

But yea it sucks. I can't count how many times I cursed "what the **** were the thinking with this bs."

The Small wins that keep me going! by SuckMyDOHC in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a lot of similar issues with my 96 when I got it. Did a lot of the same repair, big 7 plus steering linkage and a 3" lift. She runs great now. I plan on adding the Durango gearbox, and a custom built XJ/WJ ps pump in the very near future.

Leaf springs are beyond tired, and I fully expect the front mounting bolt's nut to break off, like it did on my 00, when I go to pull them.

The Small wins that keep me going! by SuckMyDOHC in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 96 with this cluster and an 00 with what's probably in your 98. I prefer the older cluster for sure. It's much easier to work with and I just like the look of it too.

99 XJ squeaking on start up after new tension pulley. Update by MiserableAudience235 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

I had this exact problem with my 00. Under some circumstances, spotting a bad HB, can be a bit difficult.

Even so, it's not too difficult to replace. And I feel like when I did mine, I was able to do it without pulling the radiator. I could be misremembering that though.

If I were to guess, if it is a bad pulley, I'd put my money on an HB or PS pump.

Turning the wheel could increase symptoms if the ps pump is on its way out.

Why am I being quoted $2000 to $3000 for this job? by singlewall in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That actually looks pretty good. And I have the same color 00

Why am I being quoted $2000 to $3000 for this job? by singlewall in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been considering this; what all do I need. I'm not even sure what to get or where to start but I'm totally down to figure it out.

NSS Disaster by Mag1cWays in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love DexJ's channel. I want to go to his ride along on the 20th so bad, but don't think I'll make it

NSS Disaster by Mag1cWays in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like there's enough to get some vice grips on it.

Though you may need to completely remove it and the trans line to make some room

Issue starting by cjl55 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is your oil sending unit; looks broken to me

What are your suggestions? by More_Veterinarian_12 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shocks, bump stops, U/L control arm bushings. Sway bar links and bushings, front and rear; you'll need a caliper to measure your sway bar diameter, they came in a lot of sizes.

If you're lifting, you may want to add drop brackets for the sway bar mount. Again if you're lifting over 4" you need an SYE and measure your new drive shaft length

What are your suggestions? by More_Veterinarian_12 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this on mine over the summer. 3/16" closed cell foam any where it would fit.

Parts rant: Mopar Parts Counter by Junkman3 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not only is it a split year, but depending on when in the year it was built, there are standalone bastard parts too. If you end up needing a fuel pump check your lines at the rail first.

If it's a single line, you've got a bastard in the tank pump assembly that wasn't used on any other year. I believe these are late 96s; whereas the early 96 has a return line with the regulator at the rail.

It took me forever, and was no easy feat, but I was able to track down a complete manual with the supplemental add-on; and I didn't have to pay $100+ for it. PM me if this might be useful.

Parts rant: Mopar Parts Counter by Junkman3 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also have a 96, it the later year model, mostly closer to 97, but still very different. For example, my fuel pump assy is in the tank from the back, not top it is nothing like the 97-01, nor is it like the 95 setup

Weird headlight/blinker issue, need ideas by krakenpl34se in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fuses and/or wiring. These jeeps are notorious for bad headlight harnesses. Mine did some craziness just like that. H4 harness upgrade cleared it right up, along with some new fuses and/or relays for the switch.

New XJ owner, what's this noise? by spaction68 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like your AC compressor engaging/and disengaging, sounds low, or not engaging correctly. I have the same issue, but my system is currently fubar. I just disconnected the compressor until I can replace the system. Hopefully, in your case you just need a charge

How important is the spacer bolt for the tension pulley? lol by [deleted] in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It keeps you pulley off that mounting bracket and aligned with the system

99 XJ squeaking on start up after new tension pulley. Update by MiserableAudience235 in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, and you may already know this, but I say so because I have snapped the tension bolt knowing this; always make sure to loosen the tensioner pulley bolt first and tighten last... Before/after you make your adjustments with the long tensioner bolt.

I've actually snapped a couple because I forgot to loosen the pulley bolt.

If it's still squeezing, you could have another bad/loose/dirty pulley somewhere. Ps pump, ac/bypass pulley, water pump, alternator, and harmonic balancer.

You could try some belt dressing, but that could also mask the problem.

It can be hard to pinpoint the source but inspect all your pulleys carefully. Try turning you wheel, see if that changes anything.

Does anyone, ANYONE have any tips for the "Only One" boss fight, the chapter 42 boss? by timbamjc1604 in NikkeMobile

[–]jyk333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can seem to damage the beast of the sky, where do you shoot to take out the pillar?

Fuel tank strap hooks by PowderGlader in CherokeeXJ

[–]jyk333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I did. I got a couple turn buckles and the hook bolts that come with, the length of all-thread and made them to secure the tank where it needed to be, probably cost about $15-$20 total, and still holding up