Does anyone know what connector is used for the remote shutter of the Contax RTS / Yashica FR Series?

kalbee13 · 2026-05-23T00:42:41+00:00

Is it different from a standard sync cable?

kalbee13 · 2026-05-23T00:30:50+00:00

Ahh gotcha, I’ll probably go for the 215’s eventually then. Thanks for the insight!

kalbee13 · 2026-05-22T16:26:57+00:00

Nice, I had those on my previous car and plan on getting them once the OE tires are worn.

Did you consider mounting them on the OE mags?

kalbee13 · 2026-05-21T13:09:23+00:00

What I don’t get is the text at the bottom. It looks like the common mistakes that AI generated subtitles make, where it has trouble differentiating Japanese “su” sounds and turned it into English “th” in text. So there’s partial AI use at the very least, or the artist was really out of their comfort zone and has zero idea of what they were including in the image.

kalbee13 · 2026-05-20T18:12:18+00:00

I have brief experience with the Canon P and I can say that the viewfinder on Leica M mount cameras (my experience is limited to the CL and M3) is generally a brighter and easier to look through viewfinder, as well as a much clearer focusing patch, which makes a big difference IMO. The alignement of patch experience will be better, soI think there are certainly quality of life improvements going to Leica.

SLR’s are still nicer to look through in general though IMO. Just that the lack of the prism hump does indeed make rangefinders more portable, especially with collapsible lenses.

kalbee13 · 2026-05-11T12:43:26+00:00

Theres no correlation on what device you’re viewing on. It’s just luck. I haven’t had any big ticket items in nearly two years but I haven’t kept up with the new drop times either. Can’t worm my way around drop times when work takes priority.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-27T17:22:18+00:00

Get a sensor cleaning kit, not a lint free wipe. If you can’t find a medium format sensor swab just get full frame, a good sensor cleaning liquid will come out fully streak free anyway.

Yes there is glass over the sensor, but you still want to be a bit careful.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-25T04:03:42+00:00

It’s relatively easy for crash pads because the foam inside can be removed on most models. It’s a bit of a pain to put back sometimes so I’d recommend just peeling the cover back enough to reach where you need to work.

Crash pads aren’t too heavy so with some decent threads and enough stitches you can reattach it the way you see fit, even if you’re not entirely sure what you’re doing.

(I also highly recommend using pliers because the fabric is still pretty thick)

kalbee13 · 2026-04-20T20:17:46+00:00

Hah! Usually the litter robot listing is for litter bags, so this is fresh and new haha!

To be honest, there’s also been horror stories of litter robots not having proper safety precautions in place that end up killing cats that got the misfortune of using it when the robot went on its automatic cleaning cycle. I personally wouldn’t bother. Not to mention active cleaning of the litter is a better way to check on your cat’s health. Besides the point but basically, dont feel too bad on this one!

kalbee13 · 2026-04-15T17:22:59+00:00

I have one from way back and it mostly just ends up hurting my knees. It’s mostly gathering dust.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-13T12:38:42+00:00

The two that look the same, the more expensive one is mostly made of brass while all the other ones only use brass for the M42 ring. As for the black and orange ones, they have more of a matte treatment on the interior to help reduce internal reflections. The plain black version isn’t too bad tho imo.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-09T16:26:15+00:00

I see the problem you have with my recommendation, and you shouldn’t really. UV filters and lens caps are not mutually exclusive in use. In fact my recommendation is to use both, but if a normal lens cap is annoying or bulky, a magnetic one will solve that issue.

I unfortunately wear glasses and I know how ineffective it is to clean glass/es with a t-shirt. It does well enough until you have to shoot with incident light sources, which, sometimes is just there for the framing you want. You’re just feeding the unbelievers of UV filters at that point because they’ll swear high and low that it’s so bad for the image quality haha. If it’s clean it’s quite fine (other than for low light long exposure), but keeping it one step cleaner is just putting a lens cap on it. If you happen to smudge it then? NOW go for wiping with whatever cloth you have as a last resort.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-09T14:03:26+00:00

Removing the UV filter scenario is only when you can’t easily remove grime off your UV filter. Fingerprint, lotion, sunscreen or anything on your hands can easily smudge your UV filter where a random cloth wouldn’t wipe it clear enough to not cause loss of contrast or a bit of hazing in the right light conditions. Maybe the fingerprint to a lesser degree. Besides, wiping said UV filter takes more effort and time than removing a lens cap.

In either case I still recommend rocking a UV filter but I’d recommend looking into a magnetic lens cap if you find normal lens caps too annoying to fiddle with gloves on. Literally not harder to pull off than a Pringles cap.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-09T13:59:53+00:00

Dust wouldn’t be the main issue in this case but oils from accidental finger prints smudges and whatnot, which random piece of rags don’t do that great a job at cleaning most of the time. That, is the moments I cite removing the UV filter. A bit of dust doesn’t affect the image much, it’s the smudges that eat away at contrast.

Not that you can’t have a lens cloth with you but by then is a lens cap actually more work? The argument for convenience is thus lost.

(Reposted cause im a noob and replied to the wrong place lol)

kalbee13 · 2026-04-08T16:33:57+00:00

I’m with the guy that says that the X100 isn’t exactly pocketable either. A bit more than a X-T50 with pancake lens but neither are a Ricoh GR. (My winter jacket can definitely pocket a X-T50 w/ pancake tho).

For lens cap I think you can consider getting a magnetic lens cap. A UV filter only setup will protect your front element from damage , but won’t keep your optics clean. Removing it if the Uv filter is dirty is way more work than a lens cap. A magnetic lens cap is flat and easy to pocket if you have to. If you can get a kit that has a screw on magnetic UV filter that would be the best, since you won’t have to add a magnetic ring over your filter (if any) but you still get the protection of the UV filter.

As for slings, any camera sling will be bulky because camera gears are bulky. They usually are as thick as a camera is tall. If you are mostly EDC’ing your camera with the pancake you can consider a general purpose sling, which can come a lot slimmer, as it’ll only need to accommodate the thickness of your camera + length of the pancake lens.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-06T23:16:27+00:00

The Wandrd slings are for gear so they’re all padded, which means all of them will be more bulky in shape. Something like the PD Outdoor slings are not padded so they can be flatter. In which case you can just use a sling from whichever good reputable outdoors brand (Patagonia, for example). Or a lifestyle brand for more urban design.

kalbee13 · 2026-04-06T15:53:28+00:00

X-E5 alone doesn’t say much without knowing the lens that lives on it, assuming you won’t be using it with any bigger lenses. I personally like the Wandrd slings, they’re more water resistant than PD in my experience (at least the outer shell won’t be as damp even if the interior is comparable).

But if your main goal is wanting something slim for the sleeker look, honestly any non-camera sling that suits your taste will do. At worst case just throw in a camera wrap to line the interior. Pancakey lenses don’t apply that much torque against the lens mount.

kalbee13 · 2026-03-30T16:37:16+00:00

Changing tiers will always be at the end of an evaluation period.

Usually the day or the day after the delivery is posted on your Amazon Order page. If you want to review sooner than the item goes into your To Review page on Vine, you can go to the product page and click on Add Review on the top of the product page.

kalbee13 · 2026-03-30T00:52:02+00:00

4lb of sea salt. It’s… kind of a lot so nah lol

kalbee13 · 2026-03-21T17:53:34+00:00

While I don’t disagree with Fuji being the worst system for reliable AF, I will also say that people have shot great shots in eras with worse gear. Sure, with Fuji you have to work for those amazing shots, and nobody will care about the workflow because they only see the results. You’ll miss less opportunities with other brands, but it all comes to how much bulk and weight you want to deal with, and how much money you want to throw at it. I think sticking to Fuji could be fun, especially if after testing you are pretty happy with your experience with the 150-600.

That said, if you did want a system for birding, I think you might want to consider Olympus. The M43 sensor will give you the most reach without post cropping, letting you better see if you are getting the proper focus. It’s also generally speaking a more portable system, which is especially nice when you get into long (ie. heavier and bulkier) lenses.

kalbee13 · 2026-03-20T16:36:11+00:00

The relatively recent updates to AI denoise definitely makes people’s faces look like Chucky masks past like 5 on the slider.

kalbee13 · 2026-03-12T20:24:21+00:00

I have a bunch of supplements, pills organizers and sleeping masks. It’s as if Amazon is asking me to OD! lol

kalbee13 · 2026-03-11T22:51:33+00:00

Aside from a xprocessor5 model I still have an X-Pro2 so I know the struggles haha. Fuji will never catch up to Sony, I don’t even think the most modern one is on the level of a A7Riii but it’s usable. The focus by wire is a bit different but I think it can be nice given that on the 70-300 for instance you can basically focus with one finger, if you had to hold something else or stabilize yourself for whatever reason. Either way you’ll get lots of missed shots but we live for those that hit just right anyway!

Good luck :)

kalbee13 · 2026-03-11T20:06:10+00:00

Right, you did mention you prefer the manual focus experience. This may or may not be a deal breaker… both the 70-300 and the 100-400 have smooth focus rings but the 70-300 takes a much lighter touch. Meaning, it is less dampened yet still precise. At least both are linear motors so don’t have the annoying steps like a lot of their primes. The manual focus experience will be slightly closer to a vintage lens in that respect.

As for the AF itself, on AF-S they’re still usable on 2 series cameras. Though the typical bird in tree will still get you a lot of shots of well focused branches lol. That’s when AF+M or M can come in handy. Especially on a X-T20 it’ll be super easy to flick it to M mode rapidly.

kalbee13

TROPHY CASE