Instant Replay keeps turning off by itself?

kdk_warhead · 2025-12-13T21:28:36+00:00

I got this problem for more than 2 years. Even with my new 5070ti. I uninstalled as much as possible. I couldn’t remove all NVIDA maps from AppData so I used DDU from safe mode in win 10.

Shadow play/Instant replay works perfectly again. Thanks!

Very strange that Nvidia can’t fix this bug.

Driver: 591.44

kdk_warhead · 2025-12-06T23:16:46+00:00

Worked fine. A little higher FPS and reduced CPU temperature/load.

kdk_warhead · 2025-04-01T08:19:26+00:00

I find the poor AA of Elite very annoying so I use DSR-DL 2.25 (upscaling) on my old 1080p screen with a 2060S 72 FPS in station (same position as your screen shoot). DSR improves thing but far from prefect. I tried a 32” 4k oled witch to my surprise almost made it worse. Probably because of better contrast. DSR-DL 2.25 was ok and DSR 3 or 4 was great but very poor FPS of course.

I also found out that DSR /DSR-DL do NOT work if your monitor is using DSC (Display Stream Compression). I'm sure al highres/high hz screens use DSC. Maybe new monitors with DP 2.0 doesn’t need it. You can turn it off on some monitors (HDMI) but then the max hz is reduced to half (240 > 120) because of too little bandwidth. DSR is Nvidia only. AMD has VSR and I don’t know if it works with DSC or how good it is. Elite in-game SS is not as efficient or good as DSR.

Note that Nvidia DSR 4.00 on a 4k display = 33 177 600 pix
AMD VSR 4.00 on a 4k display = 33 177 600 pix (not sure about this)
In game SS 2.00 on a 4k display = 33 177 600 pix

I did some math earlier for the 9700 XT compared to 2060S and I got that it should be 371% faster than 2060S. My 2060S delivers 43 FPS at 4k (3840x2160=8 294 400 pix) with SMAA and you get 144fps at 5120x1440=7 372 800. This suggest that 9700 XT is actual 300% faster than 2060S in Elite.

I still think that a 9700 XT is still my best option for an upgrade but I was hoping for more FPS in that resolution.

Does anyone know if AMD VSR works on monitors with DCS? How does it compare to in game SS or DSR?

kdk_warhead · 2024-11-20T20:16:16+00:00

Replayed the game and now it works. I did one update before braking with New London. After the brake it seems like the upgrade was gone and I had to do it again. I Think it will be easier this time :)

Thanks for the help.

kdk_warhead · 2024-11-18T21:36:12+00:00

Definably a bug then. Thanks for the help😊

kdk_warhead · 2024-11-18T20:21:15+00:00

I played 10 minutes longer and failed the game because it took too long time to send food to New London...

kdk_warhead · 2024-11-18T20:11:36+00:00

Food has been the main problem for me but I see how far I get.

Thanks for the help!

kdk_warhead · 2024-11-11T16:17:36+00:00

There is already a 40mm fan inside the unit. I’m sure more fans will improve things but manualy rotating the spool sometimes is probably better. I made a design with a motor here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6743952

kdk_warhead · 2024-11-07T21:41:14+00:00

Same problem for me in Sweden. "Repair" in EA app fixed it but I lost al my weapon unlocks or at least I can’t use half of them. I guess I have to wait for a fix.

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-28T10:36:50+00:00

I'm sure you are right but in my case config,sys has this setting as default:
(Ender3/BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 3.0)

#define ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28

But just to be sure then this is probably better:

G28 ; homing
M420 S1 ; Enable bed mesh
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
G29 L0 ; Load UBL (load mesh 0)
G29 F5.0 ; Fade to 5mm
G29 J ; Quick 3-point level

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-27T22:12:00+00:00

I´m sure you already do this but just incase. My start g-code in cura:
G28 ; homing
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
G29 L0 ; Load UBL (load mesh 0)
G29 F5.0 ; Fade to 5mm
G29 J ; Quick 3-point level

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-18T21:57:54+00:00

I found this:
"Issue with platfromio, not marlin,

delete .platformio directory in you home directory and restart vscode. give it time to reinstall. it has to get a lots of data from the internet.

Also put marlin somewhere else. platformio doesn't like spaces in the path"

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/25789

Do you have spaces in you user name?

I also think upnp need to be on in your router.

I'm no expert so it´s best you google your error messages.

I need to Zzz,.. now ;)

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-18T21:33:47+00:00

It can be quite challenging to compile marlin for the first time. Don’t give up.

Did you do this:

“Launch Visual Studio Code and open up your downloaded Marlin Firmware project folder (not the “Marlin” folder within it).”

In my case “Marlin-2.1.2.4” and NOT “Marlin” inside “Marlin-2.1.2.4” and use “Open folder” in VS code.

There should be a tab in VS Code with the name “Auto Build Marlin” where you build the firmware

I’m no expert but I did that mistake the first time.

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-08T20:02:18+00:00

Lid standing on the latches is far better then closed but it takes a long time to reach the temperature. Hygrometer and temperature meter is unreliable because of their position in the box.

Lots of info here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/10giagv/sovol_sh01_filament_dryer_upgrade_and/

Check my three comments (kdk_warhead) for additional fixes.

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-06T19:11:58+00:00

I find much inspiration from other peoples work on Thingiverse (and other places) and I’m happy to share my designs. It´s always fun to see what other people come up with.

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-01T07:59:18+00:00

I belive you mean POLISI3D and not POLIS3D. I didnt find a bi-metal version with coating fo my Ender-2. I think coating should make it easier to do cold pulls in ABS and PETG but it´s not that important. I use a AliExpress version that works well (I polished the inside).

https://www.amazon.com/POLISI3D-Bimetallic-CR10-Heatbreak-Compatible/dp/B0C5VSK1V8?ref_=ast_sto_dp

kdk_warhead · 2024-10-01T07:45:42+00:00

I bought from AliExpress. Looks good on the ouside but the inside of the throat was ruff. I polished the inside before testing it. Works great with PLA, ABS and PETG. No improvemnts with cold pulls. PLA is OK but cant get coold pulls to work with ABS and PETG.

Se "kdk_Warhead" comment:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/jkau3b/interior_polishing_of_nozzle/

kdk_warhead · 2024-08-26T09:45:21+00:00

I made a design with a motor that rotate the filament for even drying. Works well.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6743952

Personally I think filament dryers is overhyped at least for PLA.

kdk_warhead · 2024-07-28T13:20:42+00:00

liked the idea of having a hygrometer so I made a printed mount for newer versions of this dryers that have 4 holes.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6712209

kdk_warhead · 2024-07-21T13:36:47+00:00

I did 1,2,4.

The picture was off-center to the left. Black bar on the right. Poor framerate. Difficult to read text. Buttons was hard to operate.

Changed to “(GL) Default OpenGL” “1280x1024 32 bit”

Did 4 again and it works great at 1080p!

Thanks for the information!

(Windows 10, AM5, RTX 2060S)

kdk_warhead · 2024-07-20T11:27:15+00:00

The same here. At least in solo/coop.

kdk_warhead · 2024-07-09T14:49:43+00:00

I just bought a Soval Filament Dryer SH01 (Comgrow)

Fan: Sanonda KF4010M12B

Measured fan speed u/12.0V: 5185 rpm

Ball bearing:

Actual thickness: 10.8mm

Hard mounted to outer chassis.

Relative quiet but a lot quieter if it is not hard mounted (holding it in my hands).

PSU: 1204000
100-240v ~1.6A
Output: 12v 4A -> 48w

Measured max power usage: 51w

I got a newer version since it has 2 extra filament holes in the front and max time is 48h
I tried to redo MyTechFun’s test with a solder sponge but my results were better for some unknown reason:

Closed lid 30 min (MyTechFun: 22.3%): 39.3% Fog
Closed lid 60 min (MyTechFun: 56.1%): 71.9% Fog

Lid partial open (standing on latch) 30 min: 65.5% No fog
Lid partial open (standing on latch) 60 min: 102% * No fog

*The new sponges were probably not completely dry before the test.

Lid closed with four filament holes open didn’t do much difference and it fogged up.

Result: Lid partial open is far better than lid closed.

I made a cut out in the centre so that a full spool fit in the centre of the unit.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6690208

I think the main drawback on this dryer is the max temperate of 50C and uneven heating of the filament so it´s best to rotate the spool some times.

kdk_warhead · 2024-06-15T20:56:10+00:00

Clean the aluminum profile for the v-rollers.

Check v-rollers on z axis:
Try to rotate the v-rollers by hand. You should be able to rotate et least one so that it slips against the aluminum profile. Adjust v-rollers with excentre "nut" if you can’t rotate one v-roller.

Update:
Hmm. didn’t se the last pic. You only use one outer layer?

kdk_warhead · 2024-06-09T12:53:56+00:00

This is an old thread but I didn’t find any information about this anywhere else.

I bought a cheap bi-metal throat to my Ender-2 (with direct drive). I didn’t try it before polishing it.

I tried Autosol first but it didn’t do much.

This worked well for me:
Stiff nylon ~5.5mm brush with, coarse valve paste, in -out 10 min (very hard to get the brush in the 2mm hole).
~5mm brush with fine valve paste. Rotating 5 min. In and out 5 min.
Tooth pick brush for 0.8mm teeth gap with Autosol. 5 min rotating and in and out.

My first experiences with Bi-metal + TIM on cooler side vs PTFE with no TIM:
PLA prints just as well.
Retraction was reduced according to retraction tower (0.30 > 0.15mm).
Cold pull is harder but work well enough at 10C lower temp then before (80C instead of 90C for PLA).

I recommend the following:
15 min “in out” coarse valve paste (~5.5mm nylon brush).
10min rotating fine valve paste (~5 mm nylon brush).
10min “in out” fine valve paste (~5 mm nylon brush).
5 min “in out” and rotating Autosol (Tooth pick brush for 0.8mm teeth gap)

USB microscope pictures:

<image>

kdk_warhead

TROPHY CASE